Research Article
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Effects of Needle Size and Sewing Thread on Seam Quality of Traditional Fabrics

Year 2022, Volume: 32 Issue: 3, 277 - 287, 30.09.2022
https://doi.org/10.32710/tekstilvekonfeksiyon.1088043

Abstract

The role of fabric properties in sewing performance and seam quality is essential, therefore, it is crucial to understand the effect of diferent parameters on traditional fabrics’ sewability properties. This study aimed to evaluate the seam quality of traditional fabrics produced from silk, cotton and linen fibres and their blends in terms of seam strength, seam efficiency and fabric sewability. The samples were sewn using two different sewing needle size (75 Nm and 90 Nm) and sewing thread (100% mercerised cotton and 100% polyester corespun). Based on the obtained results, it can be concluded that sewing thread and fabric type had significant effect on seam strength and seam efficiency. The samples sewn with polyester corespun sewing thread had higher seam strength than other. The sewing needle significantly affected the needle penetration force values and the silk fabric had lowest sewability values both in warp and weft direction.

References

  • Fletcher, K. & Grose, L. (2012). Fashion & Sustainability. Laurence King Publishing Ltd.
  • Sarı, B., Tama Birkocak D. & Isler M. (2021). Sports clothing production techniques. IKSAD Publishing.
  • Öz, C., & Çileroğlu, B. (2021). Differentiation of basic sewing techniques with an interdisciplinary approach: sample applications in textile surface design. Journal of Textiles & Engineers, 28(122).
  • Qian, T., & Ying, C. (2015). Ecologically sustainable implementations in contemporary fashion design. International Journal of Literature and Arts, 3(6), 158-161.
  • Guan, Z. (2017). Fabric reconstruction based on sustainable development: Take the type of fabric recycling as an example. Journal of Arts and Humanities, 6(7), 13-18.
  • Isler, M., Tama Birkocak, D., & Abreu, M. J. (2021). The Influence of Starch Desizing on Thermal Properties of Traditional Fabrics in Anatolia. In Handloom Sustainability and Culture (pp. 197-219). Springer, Singapore.
  • Uzumcu, M. B., Sari, B., Oglakcioglu, N., & Kadoglu, H. (2019). An Investigation on comfort properties of dyed mulberry silk/cotton blended fabrics. Fibers and Polymers, 20(11), 2342-2347.
  • Bunsell, A. R. (Ed.). (2009). Introduction, In Handbook of tensile properties of textile and technical fibres (pp. 1-17). Elsevier.
  • Cheng, K. P. S., & Poon, K. P. W. (2002). Studies on the seam properties of some selected woven fabrics. In Conference Proceedings, Institute of Textiles and Clothing.
  • Datta, M., Nath, D., Javed, A., & Hossain, N. (2017). Seam efficiency of woven linen shirting fabric: process parameter optimisation. Research Journal of Textile and Apparel.
  • Malek, S., Khedher, F., Jaouachi, B., & Cheikrouhou, M. (2018). Determination of a sewing quality index of denim fabrics. The Journal of the Textile Institute, 109(7), 920-932.
  • Abou Nassif, N. A. (2013). Investigation of the effects of sewing machine parameters on the seam quality. Life Science Journal, 10(2), 1427-1435.
  • Amirbayat, J. (1993). Seams of Different Ply Properties. Part II: Seam Strength. The Journal of the Textile Institute. 84:1, 31-38, DOI: 10.1080/00405009308631244
  • Carvalho, M., Rocha, A. M., & Carvalho, H. (2020). Comparative study of needle penetration forces in sewing hems on toweling terry fabrics: influence of needle type and size. Autex Research Journal, 20(2), 194-202.
  • Choudhary, A. K., & Goel, A. (2013). Effect of some fabric and sewing conditions on apparel seam characteristics. Journal of Textiles, Article ID 157034.
  • Gribaa, S., Amar, S. B., & Dogui, A. (2006). Influence of sewing parameters upon the tensile behavior of textile assembly. International journal of clothing science and Technology.
  • Gurarda, A. (2019). Seam performance of garments. In Textile Manufacturing Processes. IntechOpen.
  • Gurarda, A., & Meric, B. (2005). Sewing needle penetration forces and elastane fibre damage during the sewing of cotton/elastane woven fabrics. Textile research journal, 75(8), 628-633.
  • Jebali, N., Babay Dhouib, A., & Ben Hassen, M. (2016). Modeling the overall seam quality of woven cotton fabric. International journal of applied research on textile, 4(1), 47-61.
  • Karypidis, M. (2018, December). Sewability interdependence on rigid structures. In IOP Conference Series: Materials Science and Engineering (Vol. 459, No. 1, p. 012048). IOP Publishing.
  • Pamuk, O., Kurtoğlu, Ö., Tama, D., & Öndoğan, Z. (2011). SEWABILITY PROPERTIES OF LINING FABRICS. Journal of Textile & Apparel/Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, 21(3).
  • Rogina-Car, B., & Kovačević, S. (2021). The study of needle type influence on woven fabric surface area during the sewing process. Textile Research Journal, 00405175211019133.
  • Sülar, V., Meşegül, C., Kefsiz, H., & Seki, Y. (2015). A comparative study on seam performance of cotton and polyester woven fabrics. The journal of the Textile Institute, 106(1), 19-30.
  • Ünal, B. Z., & Baykal, P. D. (2018). Determining the effects of different sewing threads and different washing types on fabric tensile and sewing strength properties. Textile and Apparel, 28(1), 34-42.
  • Vidrago, C., Abreu, M. J. A. M., Soares, G., & Carvalho, H. (2015). Cost and efficiency analysis of commercial softeners in the sewability behavior of cotton fabrics. Journal of engineered fibers and fabrics, 10(2), 155892501501000203.
  • Islam, T., Khan, S., Mia, M., Hossen, M. & Rahman, M. (2018). Effect of seam strength on different types of fabrics and sewing threads. Research Journal of Engineering and Technology. 7. 1-8.
  • Yıldız, E. Z., & Pamuk, O. (2021). The parameters affecting seam quality: a comprehensive review. Research Journal of Textile and Apparel.
  • Leeming, C. A., & Munden, D. L. (1978). Investigations into the factors affecting the penetration force of a sewing needle in a knitted fabric and its relationship with fabric sewability. Clothing Research Journal, 6(3), 91-118.
  • Carvalho, H. (2004). Optimisation and Control of processes in Apparel Manufacturing. PhD diss., School of Engineering, University of Minho, Portugal, available at http://hdl.handle.net/1822/59
  • Carvalho, H., Rocha, A. M., & Monteiro, J. L. (2009). Measurement and analysis of needle penetration forces in industrial high-speed sewing machine. The Journal of the Textile Institute, 100(4), 319-329.
  • Stjepanovic, Z., & Strah, H. (1998). Selection of suitable sewing needle using machine learning techniques. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology.
  • Erdoğan M.Ç., Boz S. & Küçük M., (2020). Machines used in sewing rooms in apparel industry, Ege University Press, Izmir. (In Turkish)
  • Namiranian, R., Najar, S. S., Etrati, S. M., & Manich, A. M. (2014). Seam slippage and seam strength behavior of elastic woven fabrics under static loading.
  • Islam, M. M., Saha, P. K., Islam, M. N., Rana, M. M., & Hasan, M. A. (2019). Impact of different seam types on seam strength. Global Journal of Research In Engineering, 19(4), 23-25.
  • ISO 13934-1 Textiles- Tensile properties of fabrics- Part 1: Determination of maximum force and elongation at maximum force using the strip method
  • İlleez, A. A., Dalbaşι, E. S., & Özçelik Kayseri, G. (2017). Seam Properties and Sewability of Crease Resistant Shirt Fabrics. AATCC Journal of Research, 4(1), 28-34.
  • Islam, M. R., Asif, A. A. H., Razzaque, A., Al Mamun, A., & Maniruzzaman, M. (2020). Analysis of seam strength and efficiency for 100% cotton plain woven fabric. International Journal of Textile Science, 9(1), 21-24.
  • Behera, B. K., Chand, S., Singh, T. G., & Rathee, P. (1997). Sewability of denim. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology.
  • Haghighat, E., Etrati, S. M., & Najar, S. S. (2014). Evaluation of woven denim fabric sewability based on needle penetration force. Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics, 9(2), 155892501400900206.
  • Ala, D. M., & Bakıcı, G. G. (2019). Sewability (Based on Needle Penetration Force) of 1× 1 Rib Knitted Fabrics Produced with Separate Ends of Yarns. Autex Research Journal, 19(4), 340-346.
  • L&M Sewability Tester Manual (John Godrich), (2010).
  • Mukhopadhyay, A., Sikka, M., & Karmakar, A. K. (2004). Impact of laundering on the seam tensile properties of suiting fabric. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology.
  • Sharma, N., Jain M. & Kashyap R. (2019). Assessment of sewability parameters of ahimsa and conventional silk union fabrics. Indian Journal of Applied Research. 9(3), 60-62.
  • Bakıcı, G. G., & Kadem, F. D. (2015). An experimental study about sewability and bending strenght properties of cotton fabrics. 30(2), 177-182.
  • Grancaric, A.M., Lima, M., Vasconcelos, R., Tarbuk, A. (2005). Handle of cotton knitted fabrics: influence of pretreatments. AUTEX World Textile Conference 2005, University of Maribor, Portoroz, Slovenia.
Year 2022, Volume: 32 Issue: 3, 277 - 287, 30.09.2022
https://doi.org/10.32710/tekstilvekonfeksiyon.1088043

Abstract

References

  • Fletcher, K. & Grose, L. (2012). Fashion & Sustainability. Laurence King Publishing Ltd.
  • Sarı, B., Tama Birkocak D. & Isler M. (2021). Sports clothing production techniques. IKSAD Publishing.
  • Öz, C., & Çileroğlu, B. (2021). Differentiation of basic sewing techniques with an interdisciplinary approach: sample applications in textile surface design. Journal of Textiles & Engineers, 28(122).
  • Qian, T., & Ying, C. (2015). Ecologically sustainable implementations in contemporary fashion design. International Journal of Literature and Arts, 3(6), 158-161.
  • Guan, Z. (2017). Fabric reconstruction based on sustainable development: Take the type of fabric recycling as an example. Journal of Arts and Humanities, 6(7), 13-18.
  • Isler, M., Tama Birkocak, D., & Abreu, M. J. (2021). The Influence of Starch Desizing on Thermal Properties of Traditional Fabrics in Anatolia. In Handloom Sustainability and Culture (pp. 197-219). Springer, Singapore.
  • Uzumcu, M. B., Sari, B., Oglakcioglu, N., & Kadoglu, H. (2019). An Investigation on comfort properties of dyed mulberry silk/cotton blended fabrics. Fibers and Polymers, 20(11), 2342-2347.
  • Bunsell, A. R. (Ed.). (2009). Introduction, In Handbook of tensile properties of textile and technical fibres (pp. 1-17). Elsevier.
  • Cheng, K. P. S., & Poon, K. P. W. (2002). Studies on the seam properties of some selected woven fabrics. In Conference Proceedings, Institute of Textiles and Clothing.
  • Datta, M., Nath, D., Javed, A., & Hossain, N. (2017). Seam efficiency of woven linen shirting fabric: process parameter optimisation. Research Journal of Textile and Apparel.
  • Malek, S., Khedher, F., Jaouachi, B., & Cheikrouhou, M. (2018). Determination of a sewing quality index of denim fabrics. The Journal of the Textile Institute, 109(7), 920-932.
  • Abou Nassif, N. A. (2013). Investigation of the effects of sewing machine parameters on the seam quality. Life Science Journal, 10(2), 1427-1435.
  • Amirbayat, J. (1993). Seams of Different Ply Properties. Part II: Seam Strength. The Journal of the Textile Institute. 84:1, 31-38, DOI: 10.1080/00405009308631244
  • Carvalho, M., Rocha, A. M., & Carvalho, H. (2020). Comparative study of needle penetration forces in sewing hems on toweling terry fabrics: influence of needle type and size. Autex Research Journal, 20(2), 194-202.
  • Choudhary, A. K., & Goel, A. (2013). Effect of some fabric and sewing conditions on apparel seam characteristics. Journal of Textiles, Article ID 157034.
  • Gribaa, S., Amar, S. B., & Dogui, A. (2006). Influence of sewing parameters upon the tensile behavior of textile assembly. International journal of clothing science and Technology.
  • Gurarda, A. (2019). Seam performance of garments. In Textile Manufacturing Processes. IntechOpen.
  • Gurarda, A., & Meric, B. (2005). Sewing needle penetration forces and elastane fibre damage during the sewing of cotton/elastane woven fabrics. Textile research journal, 75(8), 628-633.
  • Jebali, N., Babay Dhouib, A., & Ben Hassen, M. (2016). Modeling the overall seam quality of woven cotton fabric. International journal of applied research on textile, 4(1), 47-61.
  • Karypidis, M. (2018, December). Sewability interdependence on rigid structures. In IOP Conference Series: Materials Science and Engineering (Vol. 459, No. 1, p. 012048). IOP Publishing.
  • Pamuk, O., Kurtoğlu, Ö., Tama, D., & Öndoğan, Z. (2011). SEWABILITY PROPERTIES OF LINING FABRICS. Journal of Textile & Apparel/Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon, 21(3).
  • Rogina-Car, B., & Kovačević, S. (2021). The study of needle type influence on woven fabric surface area during the sewing process. Textile Research Journal, 00405175211019133.
  • Sülar, V., Meşegül, C., Kefsiz, H., & Seki, Y. (2015). A comparative study on seam performance of cotton and polyester woven fabrics. The journal of the Textile Institute, 106(1), 19-30.
  • Ünal, B. Z., & Baykal, P. D. (2018). Determining the effects of different sewing threads and different washing types on fabric tensile and sewing strength properties. Textile and Apparel, 28(1), 34-42.
  • Vidrago, C., Abreu, M. J. A. M., Soares, G., & Carvalho, H. (2015). Cost and efficiency analysis of commercial softeners in the sewability behavior of cotton fabrics. Journal of engineered fibers and fabrics, 10(2), 155892501501000203.
  • Islam, T., Khan, S., Mia, M., Hossen, M. & Rahman, M. (2018). Effect of seam strength on different types of fabrics and sewing threads. Research Journal of Engineering and Technology. 7. 1-8.
  • Yıldız, E. Z., & Pamuk, O. (2021). The parameters affecting seam quality: a comprehensive review. Research Journal of Textile and Apparel.
  • Leeming, C. A., & Munden, D. L. (1978). Investigations into the factors affecting the penetration force of a sewing needle in a knitted fabric and its relationship with fabric sewability. Clothing Research Journal, 6(3), 91-118.
  • Carvalho, H. (2004). Optimisation and Control of processes in Apparel Manufacturing. PhD diss., School of Engineering, University of Minho, Portugal, available at http://hdl.handle.net/1822/59
  • Carvalho, H., Rocha, A. M., & Monteiro, J. L. (2009). Measurement and analysis of needle penetration forces in industrial high-speed sewing machine. The Journal of the Textile Institute, 100(4), 319-329.
  • Stjepanovic, Z., & Strah, H. (1998). Selection of suitable sewing needle using machine learning techniques. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology.
  • Erdoğan M.Ç., Boz S. & Küçük M., (2020). Machines used in sewing rooms in apparel industry, Ege University Press, Izmir. (In Turkish)
  • Namiranian, R., Najar, S. S., Etrati, S. M., & Manich, A. M. (2014). Seam slippage and seam strength behavior of elastic woven fabrics under static loading.
  • Islam, M. M., Saha, P. K., Islam, M. N., Rana, M. M., & Hasan, M. A. (2019). Impact of different seam types on seam strength. Global Journal of Research In Engineering, 19(4), 23-25.
  • ISO 13934-1 Textiles- Tensile properties of fabrics- Part 1: Determination of maximum force and elongation at maximum force using the strip method
  • İlleez, A. A., Dalbaşι, E. S., & Özçelik Kayseri, G. (2017). Seam Properties and Sewability of Crease Resistant Shirt Fabrics. AATCC Journal of Research, 4(1), 28-34.
  • Islam, M. R., Asif, A. A. H., Razzaque, A., Al Mamun, A., & Maniruzzaman, M. (2020). Analysis of seam strength and efficiency for 100% cotton plain woven fabric. International Journal of Textile Science, 9(1), 21-24.
  • Behera, B. K., Chand, S., Singh, T. G., & Rathee, P. (1997). Sewability of denim. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology.
  • Haghighat, E., Etrati, S. M., & Najar, S. S. (2014). Evaluation of woven denim fabric sewability based on needle penetration force. Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics, 9(2), 155892501400900206.
  • Ala, D. M., & Bakıcı, G. G. (2019). Sewability (Based on Needle Penetration Force) of 1× 1 Rib Knitted Fabrics Produced with Separate Ends of Yarns. Autex Research Journal, 19(4), 340-346.
  • L&M Sewability Tester Manual (John Godrich), (2010).
  • Mukhopadhyay, A., Sikka, M., & Karmakar, A. K. (2004). Impact of laundering on the seam tensile properties of suiting fabric. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology.
  • Sharma, N., Jain M. & Kashyap R. (2019). Assessment of sewability parameters of ahimsa and conventional silk union fabrics. Indian Journal of Applied Research. 9(3), 60-62.
  • Bakıcı, G. G., & Kadem, F. D. (2015). An experimental study about sewability and bending strenght properties of cotton fabrics. 30(2), 177-182.
  • Grancaric, A.M., Lima, M., Vasconcelos, R., Tarbuk, A. (2005). Handle of cotton knitted fabrics: influence of pretreatments. AUTEX World Textile Conference 2005, University of Maribor, Portoroz, Slovenia.
There are 45 citations in total.

Details

Primary Language English
Subjects Wearable Materials
Journal Section Articles
Authors

Derya Tama Birkocak 0000-0002-2720-2484

Early Pub Date September 30, 2022
Publication Date September 30, 2022
Submission Date March 15, 2022
Acceptance Date September 13, 2022
Published in Issue Year 2022 Volume: 32 Issue: 3

Cite

APA Tama Birkocak, D. (2022). Effects of Needle Size and Sewing Thread on Seam Quality of Traditional Fabrics. Textile and Apparel, 32(3), 277-287. https://doi.org/10.32710/tekstilvekonfeksiyon.1088043

No part of this journal may be reproduced, stored, transmitted or disseminated in any forms or by any means without prior written permission of the Editorial Board. The views and opinions expressed here in the articles are those of the authors and are not the views of Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon and Textile and Apparel Research-Application Center.