In designing the weaving of fancy fabrics, it is important to forecast accurately the shrinkage, which is influenced by the yarn count, the weaving density and the warp or weft yarn tension. In this paper, these factors are investigated theoretically and experimentally on fancy fabrics of cotton and wool.
The results obtained are as follows:
1) The fabric shrinkage increases with decreasing the warp yarn tension or with decreasing both the weft yarn tension and the weaving density of weft.
2) It increases with decreasing the bending resistance and the yarn diameter.
3) It increases with increasing the deformation of the yarn cross section and with the crosspoint number in the woven structure.
4) The shrinkage of fancy fabrics ε, can be represented by the following expression: where, λ is the difference of yarn intervals in on-loom and off-loom fabrics, K_r2 and K_c2 are the densities per 1cm of non-bent and bent sections of the off-loom fabric respectively, m and n are the numbers of non-bent and bent sections per 1 perfection of the fabric respectively, and ψ is the shrinkage ratio of the on-loom fabric.