Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회지)

Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회)
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Study on Skin Permeation of Tocopheryl Acetate Using Swollen Micelle

Swollen Micelle을 이용한 Tocopheryl Acetate 의 피부흡수 연구

  • Su-Bin Son (Department of Chemistry and Cosmetics, College of Natural Science, Jeju National University) ;
  • Kyung-Sup Yoon (Department of Chemistry and Cosmetics, College of Natural Science, Jeju National University)
  • 손수빈 (제주대학교 화학.코스메틱스학과) ;
  • 윤경섭 (제주대학교 화학.코스메틱스학과)
  • Received : 2022.12.07
  • Accepted : 2023.02.10
  • Published : 2023.03.30
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Abstract

A study was performed to increase skin permeation of tocopheryl acetate, an oil-soluble component among tocopheryl acetate, salicylic acid, and niacinamide, which are the active ingredients of the anti-hair loss toner. As a method of transparently solubilizing tocopheryl acetate while containing salicyl acid and niacinamide, we used a swollen micelle structure that increased the size of the micelle formed by the aggregation of surfactants. The prepared swollen micelle solution contains three kinds of active ingredients, and poloxamer 407 and octyldodeceth-16 were used as surfactants to increase transparent properties and stability. In addition, isostearic acid was used as a co-surfactant to increase the size of micelles. To evaluate the physical properties of the prepared swollen micelles, turbidity at room temperature (25 ℃) was measured. The Franz diffusion cell method was used to evaluate the skin permeation rate of tocopheryl acetate among the hair-loss prevention components contained in swollen micelles. After 24 h, tocopheryl acetate showed a 6-fold improvement in skin permeation compared to the control group. Therefore, it can be seen that the swollen micelles developed in this study can be applied to hair-loss prevention products or solubilized formulations of various functional cosmetics.

본 연구에서는 탈모방지 토너의 활성 성분인 tocopheryl acetate, salicylic acid 및 niacinamide 성분 중 유용성 성분인 tocopheryl acetate의 피부흡수를 높이기 위한 연구를 진행하였다. Salicylic acid와 niacinamide를 함유함과 동시에 tocopheryl acetate를 투명하게 가용화시키려는 방법으로, 계면활성제가 회합하여 형성되는 micelle의 크기를 증가시킨 swollen micelle 구조를 이용하였다. 제조한 swollen micelle 용액은 3종의 활성 성분을 함유하며 투명한 성상과 안정성을 높이기 위해 계면활성제로 poloxamer 407과 octyldodeceth-16을 사용하였다. 또한 micelle의 크기를 증가시키기 위한 보조계면활성제로서 isostearic acid를 사용하였다. 제조한 swollen micelle의 물리적 특성을 평가하기 위해 실온(25 ℃)에서의 탁도를 측정하였다. Swollen micelle에 함유된 탈모방지 성분 중, tocopheryl acetate의 피부흡수율을 평가하기 위해 Franz diffusion cell method를 이용하였다. 24 h 후 tocopheryl acetate의 경우 대조군보다 6 배 향상된 피부흡수량을 보여주었다. 따라서 본 연구에서 개발한 swollen micelle은 탈모방지 제품 또는 여러 기능성 화장품의 가용화 제형에 응용될 수 있음을 알 수 있다.

Keywords

Acknowledgement

This research was supported by the 2022 scientific promotion program funded by Jeju National University

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