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The Production and Consumption of Lawn-Tennis Shoes in Late-Victorian Britain

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  10 June 2016

Thomas Turner
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Abstract

The lawn-tennis shoe was a popular, widely available commodity in late-Victorian Britain. Associated with new forms of sporting practice and consumption, this type of footwear was mass-produced in modern factories, promoted in the popular leisure press, and sold to both men and women in a variety of retail environments. This article analyzes processes of product innovation, production, and sale, and it situates the shoes within a wider context of sport, commerce, fashion, and class and gender relations. Like other late-Victorian sporting and recreational practices, lawn tennis combined material objects, physical activity, and the stylized display of gender and class ideals. Footwear was valued for symbolic and physically practical reasons. Ideas of intended use determined its design and material form. Sportswear created and communicated new masculine ideals. As lawn-tennis shoes moved from the court into everyday usage, the meanings attached to them accommodated a broader range of practices and contexts.

Keywords

Tennissportfootwearsneakersdressfashiongendermasculinityfemininityindustryconsumerismdesign
Type
Articles
Information
Journal of British Studies , Volume 55 , Issue 3 , July 2016 , pp. 474 - 500
Copyright
Copyright © The North American Conference on British Studies 2016 

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81 Park, “Sport, Dress Reform and the Emancipation of Women,” 17.

82 See McCrone, “Play Up! Play Up! And Play the Game!”

83 Lake, Social History of Tennis, 32−33.

84 McCrone, Sport and the Physical Emancipation of English Women, 162.

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88 Peck and Snyder, Sporting Goods: Sports Equipment and Clothing, Novelties, Recreative Science, Firemen's Supplies, Magic Lanterns and Slides, Plays and Joke Books, Tricks and Magic, Badges and Ornaments (1886; repr., Princeton, 1971); Fred L. Israel, ed., 1897 Sears Roebuck Catalogue (New York, 1976).

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94 Shove et al., Dynamics of Social Practice, 11.

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97 “Correspondence,” Pastime, 7 May 1884, 295.

98 “Correspondence,” Pastime, 14 May 1884, 313.

99 “H. Randall, Patentee, The ‘Tenacious’ Lawn Tennis Shoe,” Pastime, 21 May 1884, 335.

100 See, e.g., “‘Tenacious’ Lawn-Tennis Shoes,” Boots and Shoe Trades Journal, 4 July 1885, 1; “‘Tenacious’ Lawn-Tennis Shoes,” Boots and Shoe Trades Journal, 5 September 1885, 139; “‘The Tenacious’ Lawn-Tennis Shoe,” Boots and Shoe Trades Journal, 17 October 1885, 231. See also Randall's advertisement in Julian Marshall, Lawn Tennis with Laws of the Game and Illustrated Price List for 1885 (Horncastle, 1885), 26.

101 “The Sportsman's Exhibition at Westminster Aquarium,” Pastime, 2 June 1886, 368. H. E. Randall is the only firm mentioned.

102 “A Tip-Top Show,” Shoe and Leather Record, 15 May 1896, 1127.

103 Randall, “H. E. Randall's List of Shops.”

104 H. E. Randall, H. Randall the Noted Anatomical Boot Maker, promotional card, Evan 4189, BL.

105 H. E. Randall, Victory of the Tenacious Lawn Tennis Shoes: A Romance, promotional booklet, Evan 5257, BL.

106 Kotro, Tanja and Pantzar, Mika, “Product Development and Changing Cultural Landscapes—Is Our Future in ‘Snowboarding’?,” Design Issues 18, no. 2 (Spring 2002): 30−45, at 42CrossRefGoogle Scholar.

107 “A Pleasing Ceremony,” Graphic, 26 June 1886, 707.

108 Ibid.; “Lawn-Tennis Appliances, etc.,” Pastime, 7 May 1890, 298.

109 “Randall's ‘Tenacious’ Lawn-Tennis Shoes,” Pastime, 21 May 1890, 337; “H. E. Randall,” Pastime, 4 May 1892, 285.

110 H. E. Randall declined rapidly after the death of its founder and in 1953 was taken over by a rival. Few records survive.

111 Shove et al., Dynamics of Social Practice, 44.

112 Pantzar, Mika, “Domestication of Everyday Life Technology: Dynamic Views on the Social Histories of Artifacts,” Design Issues 13, no. 3 (Autumn 1997): 52−65CrossRefGoogle Scholar. See also Shove, Elizabeth and Southerton, Dale, “Defrosting the Freezer: From Novelty to Convenience,” Journal of Material Culture 5, no. 3 (November 2000): 301−19CrossRefGoogle Scholar.

113 “Correspondence,” Pastime, 7 May 1884; 14 May 1884, 313.

114 “The Alleged Prize Fight,” Times, 13 May 1882, 6; “The Wide World,” Cycling, 6 August 1892, 36; “Hints for Ladies,” Derby Mercury, 22 August 1894, 6; “Duel Between Experts,” Daily News, 18 March 1897, 7; “Tee Shots,” Golf Illustrated, 15 December 1899, 256; “Amateur walking match at Leamington,” Bell's Life in London and Sporting Chronicle, 1 September 1883, 296; Dixon, J. E., “Cross-Country Running,” Physical Culture 1, no. 6 (1898): 412Google Scholar; Experto Crede, “Sport in Other Lands: Shooting in Bengal, and How to Obtain It,” Country Life Illustrated, 27 May 1899, 650; Dolf Wyllarde, “Sport in Other Lands: Goat Shooting in Madeira,” Country Life Illustrated, 16 December 1899, 774.

115 “BASKET BALL SHOES,” A. G. Spalding advertisement, in L. H. Gulick, How to Play Basket Ball (London, 1907), n.p. On the creation of basketball see Robert W. Peterson, Cages to Jumpshots: Pro Basketball's Early Years (New York, 1990), 15−31, 185−86; Myerscough, Keith, “The Game with No Name: The Invention of Basketball,” International Journal of the History of Sport 12, no. 1 (April 1995): 137−52CrossRefGoogle Scholar.

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117 “An Ascent of the ‘Pieter Both’ Mountain, Mauritius,” Graphic, 5 July 1879, 18; “An Ascent of the ‘Pieter Both’ Mountain, Mauritius,” Manchester Times, 12 July 1879, 222.

118 “Golding, Bexfield & Co.,” Pastime, 21 Sept 1883, 271; “Wm. Hickson and Sons’ Tennis Shoes,” Pastime, 1 May 1889, 284.

119 See Pantzar, “Product Development and Changing Cultural Landscapes,” 38−41; Thomas Turner, “Transformative Improvisation: The Creation of the Commercial Skateboard Shoe, 1960−1979,” in Skateboarding: Subcultures, Sites and Shifts, ed. Kara-Jane Lombard (Abingdon, 2016), 182−94.

120 William H. Dooley, A Manual of Shoemaking and Leather and Rubber Products (London, 1913), 239.

121 Christopher Breward, The Hidden Consumer, 198. See also idem, “Fashion and the Man: From Suburb to City Street, The Spaces of Masculine Consumption, 1870−1914,” in The Men's Fashion Reader, ed. Peter McNeil and Vicki Karaminas (Oxford, 2009), 409−28.

122 Brent Shannon, The Cut of His Coat, 186, 189.

123 “Holiday Haunts,” Daily News, 6 December 1884, 3.

124 “Failure of the Strike Negotiations,” Lloyd's Weekly Newspaper, 8 September 1889, 1.

125 Shannon, The Cut of His Coat, 179−82.

126 “London Letter,” Western Mail, 11 August 1893, 4.

127 “London Correspondence,” Freeman's Journal and Daily Commercial Advertiser, 13 August 1895, 5.

128 “From Our London Correspondent,” Leeds Mercury, 13 June 1900, 4.

129 See Tom Vanderbilt, The Sneaker Book: Anatomy of an Industry and an Icon (New York, 1998); Robert Jackson, Sole Provider: 30 Years of Nike Basketball (New York, 2002); Neal Heard, Trainers (London, 2003); Roberto Garcia, Where'd You Get Those? New York City's Sneaker Culture: 1960−1987 (New York, 2003); Unorthodox Styles, Sneakers: The Complete Collectors Guide (London, 2005); Ben Osborne, ed., Slam Kicks: Basketball Sneakers that Changed the Game (New York, 2013).

130 Christopher Breward, “Fashioning Masculinity: Men's Footwear and Modernity,” in Riello and McNeil, eds., Shoes, 206−23, at 207.