생약재 추출물로부터 주름 개선 소재의 발굴 및 이를 이용한 화장품의 안정성 시험

조은아; 조은혜; 최선주; 박근형; 김소영; 정윤주; 구창섭; 하병집; 장동일; 채희정

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Various herbal medicinal extracts were examined for the development of cosmetic products with anti-oxidative and anti-wrinkle activity. First, total polyphenol contents and DPPH radical scavenging activities of herbal medicinal extracts were measured. Most herbal samples, except for DW extracts of Portulaca oleracea, Caesalpinia sappan, Taraxacum platycarpum, Carthamus tinctorius, and 70% EtOH extracts of Taraxacum platycarpum and Carthamus tinctorius, showed DPPH radical scavenging activity over 80% at a concentration of 400㎍/㎖. SOD-like antioxidant activity of DW extracts of Syzygium aromaticum, DW extracts of Eriobtrya japonica and 70% EtOH extracts of Sophora japonica was measured as 40%, 35% and 80%, respectively at a dry matter concentration of 50㎍/㎖. In elastase inhibition assay, DW extracts of Lycium chinense (50㎍/㎖) and 70% EtOH extracts of Areca catechu (50㎍/㎖) showed 50% and 40% of inhibition, respectively. At a concentration of 1,250㎍/㎖, DW extracts of Lycium chinense and 70% EtOH extracts of Areca catechu showed 10% and 30% of collagenase inhibition, respectively. Skin and lotion samples were prepared using the two herbal extracts of high anti-wrinkle activity: Lycium chinense extract and Areca catechu extract. The storage stability of skin and lotion containing each of the selected herbal extracts was evaluated. pH and viscosity were used as stability indicators for the stability test under different storage temperatures and freeze-thaw cycle conditions. The skin and lotion containing each of DW extract of Lycium chinense and 70% EtOH extract of Areca catechu was showed high pH and viscosity stability. The skin and lotion containing DW extracts of Lycium chinense showed relatively higher stability than the skin and lotion containing 70% EtOH extract of Areca catechu, at cycle chamber and freeze-thaw conditions. In summary, these results indicated that cosmetics containing DW extract of Lycium chinense were relatively stable, and this herbal extract could be used as a stable functional cosmetic material.

#Antiwrinkle Activity #Antioxidant Activity #Herbal Medicinal Extract #Elastase Inhibition #Stability Test