Study of the cosmetic properties of microalgae ex-tracts – The case of Nannochloropsis oculata

Microalgae are an exceptional source of bioactive compounds which during the recent years have found applications as active ingredients in cosmetic products. The aim of this study was to investigate the possibility of using microalgae extracts in cosmetic formulations. For this purpose, the sun protection factor (SPF) of Tisochrysis lutea, Nannochloropsis oculata, Isochrysis galbana, Dunaliella salina, and Chlorella minutissima extracts were evaluated in vitro. Additionally, the effect of Nannocloropsis oculata (NO) extract on skin barrier and hydration was also assessed on healthy volunteers.

The results suggested that the maximum SPF (~30) was achieved by Tisochrysis lutea and Chlorella minutissima extracts. Medium SPF (~20-25) was calculated for Isochrysis galbana and Dunaliella salina ex-tracts, while Nannochloropsis oculata extract did not exceed SPF 12,5.

The in vivo study showed that the incorporation of Nannochloropsis oculata extract in a cream did not contribute to the improvement of the disturbed skin barrier, however it caused a significant increase of skin hydration at least one hour after its application.

In conclusion, these findings suggest the ability of NO extract to affect some basic features of skin properties, offering new insights into the beneficial role of bioactive microalgae compounds in cosmetic formulations.