Voyage of Fragrances and Fashion

Humans always loved good smell and associated it with cleanliness, good health, clean spirit and a sign of prosperity and luxury. Until fourteenth century, bathing was seen as danger for health and soon after the bathing they wrapped them with scented cloth. Chewing specific herbs for bad breathe; spraying of aromatic powder for hair was part of beauty regime. But the ancient humans did not appreciate bathing or getting rid of bad odour for a very long time. In fact, the fear of water and bathing was prevalent. Hygiene was maintained through public bathing in river, ponds or by upper class people in the washtubs or royal public bath mostly involving olive oil as a key ingredient. Good smell was first used in the home to keep the living space enriched with good smell (Figure 1) followed by invention of aroma oils and perfumes for human use. That led to perfumery in the later stage.

facial regions and to eradicate germs. Muslim prophets visit shops in India, where ignited charcoal with fragrance granules sprinkled over it releases a therapeutic smoke which is alleged to eradicate any malevolent spirit in that space and also bring in good fortune.

Egyptians and perfumery
Ancient Egyptians had a great passion for aroma. Even after so many centuries, the tombs still hold the same aroma it had when it was packed and sealed. Cleopatra and her vibrant perfume collection was also a remarkable one in the history. Men, women and priests had the tradition of wearing perfume oils on them during rituals and special occasions. Three drops of perfume were worn with prayers by the Egyptians. One drop on the centre of forehead and one drop each behind the ears, seeking blessing for love, happiness and immortality [1] (Figure 1).
Traditionally they used 'Kyphi' , small incense which was a combination of henna, myrrh, cinnamon, and juniper burned as part of religious offering to their Gods. The art of making essential oil and aroma therapy was explored in every manner by them which made them the masters of the perfume world till date. Body lotion was made by soaking aromatic wood, gum, resin, oil and water which was used by the kings and queen in Egypt. They perfumed perfumes were the key to open the soul both when alive and after dead [2].
The popular Egyptian tradition called mummification is a ritual done for the dead, where the body is processed and prepared for afterlife. Perfumes played an imperative role in sealing the skin, masking the odour and holding the moisture of the skin for a longer time [3]. During the process layers of linen cut, soaked in the aromatic oils and wrapped on the dead.
The tradition of perfumes has distinct history in each region. Romans were having a rage for rose petals and rose water that every room in the palace had a bowl with rose petals that helped in serving as an air diffuser. The lunacy went high were the guests in the dining area were greeted by the falling rose petals from the ceiling that did result in accidents and an unpleasant scenario (Figure 2) [4-6].

Rome and Europe
Romans had applied the perfumes to all their pets so the fragrance is taken throughout the locality. Crushed strawberry and perfume milk bath was a huge trend. Hungary water, the first perfume was made by distilling rosemary with brandy. The distillation of rose in conical condensers began in the sixteenth century. In Europe, the first perfume with alcohol was designed for Queen Elizabeth. She thought the good smell can kill diseases and ordered the public places to be scented as part of health regime [7,8].

France
Queen Victoria of France during her sovereignty had a strong aversion for anything loud and strong. This applied to the fragrance industry as well. Milder notes of Jasmine, lavender, roses, honeysuckle, marjoram, thyme, rosemary, and clove were used among the royal family [9,10]. Perfumed gloves were a huge trend.
Louis XIV of France was named as the sweetest smelling king of all times, due to his ideas in application of perfumes during his reign. It is said that he had a great fear for water since those days the major means of diseases being spread was water. The king is also said to have bathed only thrice in his entire life time. It is also alleged that he was the first person to introduce "Aqua Angeli" fabric conditioners that was a mixture aloe wood, nutmeg, storax, cloves, benzoin, orange flower water, jasmine and musk soaked in rose water. It is so enchanting to know that his palace was ordered to have a specific smell every week. It is believed that his guests were insisted to be bathed with a perfumed liquid which was a combination of goat's milk and rose water [11,12] ( Figure 3).
France people always had a huge affinity towards perfumery. The story of the great warrior Napoleon Bonaparte tells us how much he loved the smell of jasmine/rosemary, that he uses at least sixty bottles per month. Leather industry was getting popular in France. The foul odour of the workers made them sick, and to escape that smell started wearing perfumes [13].

Perfume made popular by Americans
American deodorant companies had a major role in promoting the perfume business in the early nineteenth century. Their advertisement campaigns started annexing beauty and good smelling as very basic attributes of women (Figure 4).

Sources for Making Perfume
Until 18 th century, the perfume industry used naturally available sources like leaf, flower, bark, root and animals tissues were collected, processed and let to age for a particular time. The commonly available sources include thyme, lavender, peppermint, cedar, rose, almond oil, aloe, cinnamon, ox fat, cedar oil, myrrh, cassia, camphor oil, lemon, daisies, menthol and myrrh [14,15].
With the growth of population and developments in industrial revolution the chemical formulations that replicate the naturally available products take a lead. These are mostly derived from petrochemicals and has proven to be harmful to health. Today more than 500 types of fragrances are in the world.
However, Egypt holds the top rank (80%) in exporting the raw materials (naturally available) to the world perfume centres like Paris, London, New York and Moscow. The iconic perfume made from the national flower of Egypt, namely Lotus, is unique in the country and a special attraction for tourists to buy and own one.

Types of Perfumes
Replicating musical notes, fragrances are also referred as top, middle and base notes. The perfume bottles are given much importance in designing to reflect the contents it hold: light, flowery, dark or musky. Fragrance wheel consist of floral, oriental, woody, aromatic and fresh notes which basically is the kind of smell one can sense [16] ( Figure 5).
The strength of the fragrance is based on the concentration of perfume oil in it. Based on this the perfumes are classified into Parfum (20-30% of perfume), Eau de parum (15-20% of perfume), Eau de toilette (5-15% of perfume), Eau de cologne (2-4%) and Eau fraiche (1-2%). The above express the concentration of the fragrance and their names. Parfume is the costliest since it has more of frgraence oil in it. The remaining percentage is usually the base which is alcohol. Eau Fraiche is an exceptional that uses water instead of alcohol. Cologne is usually used by men and Fraiche by women. EDP is the commonly used every day type of perfume [17] (Figure 6).

Application of Perfumes
Perfumes are usually applied in pulse points where the skin is thin and once applied creates a natural heat that enable release of aroma. The points behind the ears, nape of the neck, insides of wrists, base of the throat, cleavage, elbows and knees. Application of perfume in the comb and running through the hair was followed by Cleopatra and Marlin Monroe. While checking the perfume in stores, it is not advisable to rub the perfume and check the smell as it may break the fragrance molecules. In case of too much aroma locked up one can smell a cup of coffee beans which eventually clears the nose for testing another new fragrance [18,19].
Intake of spicy food, being under medication, physiology of the person, oily/dry skin affects the perfumes quality on a person.

Storing and Maintenance of Perfumes
Glass and aluminium bottles are the best for storing perfumes. A temperature of 3-7 degree is ideal temperature for storing. Heat, light and organic substances will affect the perfume while storing.

Current Scenario
Perfume or perfume is derived from Latin which means smoke. The type of perfume used is seen as a reflection of sex, personality, status and wealth. The application of aroma is not just to the perfume industry but to various allied industries, that keep the fragrance used as a trade secret. Certainly, it is the only product that is not necessary to be listed in the ingredients list of a product cover. Facial wipes, after shave lotions, toys, deodorants, diaper, candles, room fresheners, air diffusers to body butter, shower gel and various beauty care products, the application of aroma in fashion industry is endless.

Conclusion
Sense of smell is a right brain activity. Good smell affects all the activities done using the right side of the brain namely, creativity and emotional wellbeing. Aroma oils are used in as part of psychotherapy. In the world of fashion, certain accessories are listed to be mandatory among which are perfumes elementary. It can be the life of a model or a designer, a professional is expected to look and be good during an interaction. Good odour is seen as an important element in confidence and grooming.