THE POTENTIAL OF CEPUK WOVEN FABRICS AS NUSA PENIDA'S LOCAL WISDOM IN SUPPORTING SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT IN THE PANDEMIC ERA

This article examines the potential of cepuk woven fabric as Nusa Penida's local wisdom in supporting sustainable development in the pandemic era. Balinese people in general are familiar with Gringsing woven fabrics, songket woven fabrics and endek woven fabrics. There is a type of cloth that comes from Tanglad Village, Nusa Penida District, Klungkung Regency, called cepuk woven fabric. The process of making cepuk woven cloth using a traditional tool called cagcag . The purpose of this study is to provide information about the history of existence, tools and materials, the manufacturing process to the decorative motifs found on cepuk woven fabrics as local wisdom of Nusa Penida. This research is a qualitative descriptive study. Data was collected using observation, interviews, and documentation methods. The results showed that the history of the existence of cepuk woven fabrics has been accepted from generation to generation and is a type of sacred cloth. Materials used: metric threads and rayon, natural dyes using tarum leaves, teak leaves, bark (jamblang, mango, kepundung/menteng, noni), and secang/sepang wood. The process of making cepuk weaving is quite complicated through several stages, and has several motifs with their respective functions.


BACKGROUND
Bali as one of the most popular tourist destinations in the world, has had a huge impact on the existence of its culture and local wisdom. Bali has many noble cultural works, one of which is the traditional woven fabric in the form of cepuk woven fabric which is the work of the people in Tanglad Village, Nusa Penida, Klungkung Regency. In the current era, the development of tourism and a very broad free market has eliminated the existence of cepuk woven fabrics in an era of very tight and fast competition. The manufacture of this cepuk woven cloth takes quite a long time and is complicated so that the production price is quite expensive. The high selling price of this cepuk woven fabric The development of globalization today brings two impacts on the socio-cultural life of the Balinese people. Broadly speaking, globalization has changed the mindset of people who were previously traditional and eventually developed into a modern society.
Globalization has also changed the pattern of life of the people of Nusa Penida, one of which is guiding people to get to know various cultures from foreign countries. This new culture dominates and is very influential at the surface structure level , namely the attitudes and behavior patterns of the people in Nusa Penida. This forms a consumptive lifestyle, hedonism, individualistic attitudes, and creates social inequality (Nurhaidah and Musa, 2015: 1). This global lifestyle greatly affects the lives of Balinese people, especially people in Nusa Penida which is a tourist destination. The people of Nusa Penida are more comfortable wearing clothes that have western nuances rather than using traditional fabrics as their identity and lifestyle. It seems that this has shifted the functions of traditional cloth in Nusa Penida such as the cepuk woven cloth in Tanglad Village, Nusa Penida which is quite rich in religious, customary and socio-cultural functions in the community in Nusa Penida. Therefore, there is a need for an effort to save the function of the woven fabric for the sustainability and local wisdom of the people in Nusa Penida.  (Suwardani, 2015: 248 To return to continue the journey in a very poor condition with dungkah (steps) that wraps, the place is named DRevelation. In this place, the group stayed for some time and some even started farming. At a certain time, the eldest leader in the group gave an order to one of the group members. The one who was ordered was I Bekung. Because I Bekung was still a child and the orders he received seemed like coercion, he felt annoyed. With annoyance in his heart, I Bekung left the group, which was followed by his younger brother, Ni Wulang Singah.
After a long walk towards the east, the two children felt tired and took a break to look for food. In search of fruit he met a large tree named Bihingin and the place was named Bihingin. And so on, he met another big tree which was named the Gepah/Gepuh Tree, as well as the place was named Gepuh. After living in Gepuh for some time, I Bekung and Ni Wulang Singa continued their journey to the south, where they met a complete spice plant, which in Balinese is called Carub (complete), hence the name Caruban. After passing through Caruban they met again with various difficulties and finally they fell ill. Because of the pain they seemed to be crippled (can't go anywhere) so the place was named Penaancang.
After recovering they continued their journey to the south and finally met with a very dense forest, this is where the intention of Ni Wulang the Lion arose to do penance meditation. In doing meditation in Ni Wulang, the lion received a gift (word) so that they could continue their journey to the east. On their way to the east they met a high cliff. After leaving their dead, they continued their journey towards the north, they quickly decided that the area was suitable for agriculture and they intended to settle there.
because he was quick to make a decision, the place was named Julingan which comes from the word Iju and the word Ling. the word Iju which means fast and the word Ling which means intent or purpose. after settling in julingan, they remembered the old incident when they separated from their neighbors who used to be where they live now, that's why Weaving became the brand of the typical woven fabric of Tanglad Village. The existence of the Cepuk woven cloth is not only used when carrying out prayers, but this cloth is also used in certain religious ceremonies.
There are several types of Cepuk Woven Fabrics, and each type has different uses in religious ceremonies, as follows: Cepuk Ngawis , woven cloth used during the pitra yadnya (ngaben) ceremony. Cepuk Tangi Gede , a woven cloth worn by the middle child whose all brothers and sisters died (cremation ceremony). Cepuk Kurung , is a Cepuk cloth that can be used in ordinary days. At first this type of Cepuk Tenun was used not as outer clothing, but as 'tapih', which is a cloth that is used as the innermost layer before using outer clothing. It is very interesting considering that now the Cepuk Weaving fabric is very popular with good quality and at a price that is quite affordable for the wider community as fans or collectors of typical Nusa Penida fabrics.
The development of the era also affects the level of equipment used in making Cepuk woven fabrics. In the past, people still used a simple loom called the Cegcegan Board . The Cegcegan board is named because it uses two planks in the form of a block with a hole at the top as a place to put the thread to make the cepuk weave. The sound of the board when it is kicked at the time of tightening the threads so that the threads are one with the other. At this time the Cepuk weaving equipment has begun to develop, its size is also larger than the old weaving. The rate of speed in completing a sheet of loom, Regarding the traditional loom called caggag can be seen in the image below.
Equipment for making Traditional Cepuk Woven cloth Author's Document (2020) In Tanglad Village, currently, cepuk woven fabric craftsmen only make two types, namely natural cepuk woven fabrics and chemical cepuk woven fabrics. named cepuk alam because the coloring material is made from natural materials, such as wood fiber, some from wood flowers that grow wild in Nusa Penida. The synthetic cepuk woven fabric is dyed from chemicals that can be purchased in the market and this is very different from the natural cepuk woven fabric because the dyes all use natural basic ingredients from various types of plants.
The prices for these two types of Cepuk woven fabrics are different. Natural types reach the price of four million rupiahs per sheet, while chemical types are currently still in the range of five hundred thousand rupiahs (could be more or less Weaving became the brand of the typical woven fabric of Tanglad Village. The existence of the Cepuk woven cloth is not only used when carrying out prayers, but this cloth is also used in certain religious ceremonies.
Cepuk woven cloth consists of several types, and each type has different uses in religious ceremonies which can be explained as follows.
2. Cepuk Tangi Gede , a woven cloth used by the middle child whose all brothers and sisters died (cremation ceremony).
3. Cepuk likin g Nails , worn by men to cut their teeth .

Cepuk Kurung , is a Cepuk cloth that can be used in ordinary days
At first the six types of Cepuk Weaving were not used as outer clothing, but as ' tapih ' ie cloth used as the innermost layer before using outer clothing. It is very interesting considering that Cepuk Weaving is now very popular at a price that is not cheap.

Cepuk woven fabric motif
Cepuk woven fabric is a fabric produced by craftsmen in Tanglad Village, Nusa Penida District, Klungkung Regency. The cepuk cloth is known as the bebali cloth, a sacred cloth that according to local people's beliefs is used for ceremonial needs. The cepuk woven cloth still survives today because its main function is as a protector to ward off evil influences. In addition, cepuk woven cloth is also believed to be a magical cloth for medicinal purposes. In the tradition of the people of Tanglad Village, the cepuk woven fabric is actually used as an inner layer of cloth ( tapih ), so it is not visible from the outside.
The cepuk woven fabric is a characteristic of Nusa Penida weaving because besides Tanglad Village, cepuk woven fabrics are also produced by other villages. Cepuk woven fabrics are traditionally done using non-machine looms (ATBM) at first using natural materials, but according to current developments, people who produce cepuk woven fabrics already use synthetic materials. The Nusa Penida cepuk woven fabric motif, especially in Tanglad Village, has a characteristic and exudes a magical aura, in contrast to other types of woven fabrics in Bali which use a lot of stylized flora and fauna motifs.
2 Clap Lingking Nails . The titiran eye line motif is replaced with a genggong pant 3 Cepuk Amethyst , a package of motifs consisting of big flowers, large brackets, plus apit mountain, panggeh spurs, genggong pot and eyes titiran.
4 Tangi Gede , a package of motifs almost the same as amethyst, but in the brackets the color is replaced with black.
5 Sudamala , almost the same as amethyst but the color is black and white 6 Brackets , a package of motifs that are almost the same as amethyst, only in the brackets there is no big flower motif.

The function of the woven cloth
Cloth cepuk is a typical Balinese cloth that is made traditionally in several villages in Nusa Penida District, Klungkung Regency. One of the villages that is still producing cepuk woven fabrics is Tanglad Village. Patterns and decorations can also determine the name of the cepuk cloth. According to information from community leaders in Tanglad Village, there are two versions that have developed in the community regarding the word cepuk. The first version says that the word cepuk comes from the word tepuk which means to meet. This is associated with the cepuk cloth motif always meeting each other, one of which then forms a geometric rhombus. This motif is associated with the mythological story of Barong and Rangda which symbolizes the meeting between Penengen and Pengiwa science to create a balance between humans and the universe.
Another version says that the word cepuk is associated with canging wood because one The cepuk cloth is one of the cultural elements of the people of Nusa Penida which can be seen from various aspects. Cepuk traditional cloth seen as a system includes several elements in it , such as : (1)  In general, cepuk woven cloth is used to cover part body to avoid the weather hot and cold. Results woven fabric crafts from one of the cepuk woven fabric craftsmen in Bali have different qualities , and are very dependent on the material elements and the quality of the craftsmen. Professional craftsmen will produce quality cepuk woven fabrics and vice versa.
In addition to the above functions, woven fabrics are commonly used in religious ceremonies. In general, there are five types of traditional ceremonies in society Bali is the ceremony P anca Y adn y a , y ie: (1) De w a Y adn y a ; (2) Pitra Y adn y a ; (3) Manusa Y adn y a ; (4) Rsi Y adn y a ; and (5) Butha Y adn y a . Manusa Y ad y a, includes life cycle ceremonies from pregnancy to adulthood . Pitra Y adn ya is a ceremony for ancestral spirits, either in the form of death or purification. Dewa Y adn y a , are ceremonies at family temples and other temples . While Resi Y adn ya is a ceremony related to the ordination of priests. Lastly , the ceremony held for bhuta and kala is called Bhuta Y adn y a. The cepuk woven cloth is used in various religious ceremonies, namely, the cepuk makawis is used in the pitra yadnya ceremony, as a wrapper for bones or corpses ( layon ). In a death ceremony, the body of the deceased is usually wrapped in a cloth, then wrapped in a cepuk makawis cloth. Cepuk amethyst is used in a special toothcutting ceremony for girls, while for boys it is used in a tooth-cutting ceremony. Until now, this research has not found examples of types of cepuk lingking nails. Cepuk tangi gede is used in a ceremony called sanan empeg . This ceremony is carried out when a child is born called apit bangke, meaning that the first child dies, the second child is born, then the third child is born and dies. The second born child is called apit bangke.

E-Journal of Cultural Studies
The cepuk suda mala cloth with a black-and-white motif is used when someone performs a melukat ceremony (self-cleaning); and cepuk brackets can be used in various ceremonies and are free to use including can be modified. Cloth cepuk brackets are widely circulated in the market and are used for various events and also developed by designers for clothing modifications.

b. Social-Cultural Function
Balinese traditional clothing has a high social value and prestige . Exist type cloth y ang called w astra gedogan which has eleven colorful stripes . W astra gedogan is considered to have certain magical powers, the most powerful among other magical cloths is w astra skordi , kling , got ya , and poleng . W astra skordi is a w astra with variety decorate line or plaid with w color main Red. W astra kling is cloth with variety decorate yellowish plaid . W astra got y a has various colored plaid decorations . While the poleng cloth is a cloth with a decorative pattern of plaid, with w color main black and white.
Cepuk cloth is one type of cloth that has a high social value. function and The social role of cepuk woven cloth can be used to protect the body against hot and cold conditions. Besides that, it can also be used as a bond of brotherhood or friendship as Woven fabric plash part big designed and produced for the benefit of the local Balinese market, so the colors , motifs and design y a in accordance appetite mas y people Bali. If you only focus on the local market in Bali, the manpower that can be absorbed is limited. The entry of types of cloth from outside Bali, makes Balinese cepuk cloth craftsmen increasingly difficult to run their business . By because that, very urgent for craftsman for men y asar market national like y ang conducted by batik cloth manufacturers. Expansion of the market from the local market to the national market is not impossible , as long as the craftsmen are able to create design y ang in accordance market and cloth y ang n y safe then cloth could enter to market national and even international markets Opportunities for expansion into international markets are also very large.
Therefore, the marketing strategy needs to be changed by using social media so that the cepuk cloth is easily obtained by various people in the world. However, a strategy is needed in order to meet consumer tastes, so that they have competitiveness in the destination country export. designs, motifs, and the color can be adjusted according to market demand , but the uniqueness of the cepuk cloth must be maintained because the local cultural elements in it provide added value because of its uniqueness.
The involvement of all parties in promoting more vigorous cepuk fabrics and protecting cepuk from plagiarism, has made cepuk fabrics even more elevated along with increased creativity and innovation of local designers to win prizes . competition good local, domestic and international. If export plash able to experience an increase there will be an increase in national income. In addition, rapid entry in the international market will add opportunity new jobs that can absorb labor . When the unemployment rate can be suppressed, then welfare mas y society will increase.

THE MEANING OF CEPUK WOVEN FABRICS
The symbolic meaning of the motifs and colors of the cepuk woven cloth does not appear out of nowhere but through a process of contemplation and creation idea, symbol, idea as well as the norms that are visualized in accordance with the creative abilities of the para craftsman. The production of cepuk cloth is used for support daily needs, good as clothes nor as a necessity in certain ceremonies, such as tooth-cutting ceremonies, death ceremonies, self-cleaning ceremonies ( melukat ) and ceremony custom other y a.
The symbolic meaning of the cepuk cloth not only found in the motifs and colors , Various decorative motifs of cepuk cloth such as mountain flank, panggeh spurs, big flowers, brackets, genggong pots, matn titiran is motives y ang relate with symbols of local community traditions that are influenced by Hinduism. Therefore , these motifs are sacred and should be get protection to keep these motifs preserved by the cepuk cloth craftsmen.

b. Equality Meaning
Currently, cepuk cloth is commonly used by various groups of people. In ancient times, cepuk cloth was used more by the upper class so that the use of cepuk cloth  same like objects economy other y a that is do sur v ey market for understand interest and appetite consumer, and until akliirn y a do transactional emotion. Success in increasing productivity in accordance with market tastes will have an effect on increasing the opinions of entrepreneurs, craftsmen and traders. This will improve the welfare of society as a whole.

d. Preservation Meaning
As one of the cultural artifacts, the cepuk cloth is a cultural heritage ( heritage ) which can be defined as a set of collective symbols inherited by generations. F i r s t o f a l l , t h i s r e l i c should not be treated like other objects in a museum which have finally been weathered by the influence of nature and time . Cultural heritage or heritage deserves to be preserved and has economic value. Thus, cultural preservation is in the form of maintaining the state and existence of a legacy of past generations through the process of inventory , documentation, and revitalization. This is useful for knowing, understanding, and appreciating the achievements or achievements of the community in the past as a source of inspiration to build a better future and can be used to build a better future.
increase well-being mas y people.