COUNTRY-SPECIFIC DETERMINANTS OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY DEVELOPMENT IN POLAND: COMPARATIVE ANALYSIS OF THE YEARS 2007 AND 2017

presentation of statistical data and statistical methods of research. The authors test the research hypothesis that the growth potential of textile industry enterprises is the largest in the most prosperous provinces.


Introduction
The textile sector in Poland comprises the manufacture of textiles, wearing apparel, and articles of fur skins. In addition to textile manufacture, the clothing and leather industries also belong to the textile industry [1]. The textile industry is of crucial importance for the economy of Poland as a great number of people fi nd employment in this sector [2], it is a source of founding of new enterprises; moreover, it provides modern products, not only in the Polish market but also abroad. The textile sector enterprises can be divided into the following: manufacturers of clothing sector products; companies providing sewing services for well-known global brands: manufacturers of fabrics (cotton, linen, etc.); textile factories; importers of semi-fi nished and fi nished clothing products; shops and wholesalers selling clothes of various brands; franchising outlets, and online shops [3]. The textile, clothing, and leather industries have undergone structural changes not only in Poland but also in other countries of the European Union (EU). Under the infl uence of technological development, in combination with traditional advantages in terms of design and quality, new markets, such as sports and tourist apparel, luxury goods, or shoes, have emerged in consumer markets. The growing popularity of such consumer goods has created new opportunities in the manufacturing industry market. Hence, it is important to support new business concepts and related manufacturing technologies directed at creating products that are durable, compliant with users' needs, and based on product projects in the textile sectors [4]. Therefore, it is important to consider which regions or provinces are characterized by the highest level of attractiveness for the development of the textile sector. Hence, the aim of this paper is to defi ne the level of attractiveness of individual Polish regions for the development of the textile sector in relation to fi ve microclimates, which somehow defi ne the most important determinants of the development of this sector of the economy.

Experimental
The European Union is an important market for textiles and apparel in the world. The year 2009 was a time when the majority of European countries faced the economic crisis; turnover of the European textile industry at that time amounted to EUR 167 billion (in 2017, it was EUR 181 billion). Total employment in that industry in the EU-27 in 2009 amounted to >2 million and, in 2017 (EU-28), there was a decline to 1.69 million employees. Investments in the industries under study amounted to EUR 4.9 billion, both in 2009 and in 2017 in the EU countries. There were about 128,000 enterprises in the textile industry in the EU-27 in 2009 and about 176,000 companies (EU-28) in 2017. Exports in the textile industry from the EU-27 amounted to EUR 30.4 billion in 2009 and imports amounted to EUR 74.9 billion. In turn, in 2017, exports from the EU-28 were estimated to be EUR 47.9 billion and imports to the EU-28 were EUR 112.1 billion. The countries to which the biggest number of textile products was exported from the EU in 2009 included the following: Switzerland, Russia, the USA and Turkey; and in 2017, the countries included Switzerland, the USA, Russia, China, and Hong Kong. On the other hand, the countries from which the biggest number of products was imported to the EU in 2009 included China, Turkey, Bangladesh, India, and Turkey, and in 2017, products were largely imported from China, Bangladesh, Turkey, India, Cambodia, and Pakistan [5,6].
The textile industry is an important element of the economy in Poland, and due to its rapid development, it has a chance to become one of the main driving forces of the country's economic growth [7], in particular, through the development of small-and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs) -which are the main initiators of economic growth -creating jobs, providing employment opportunities, and contributing to large enterprises as suppliers of goods and services [8]. While looking for measures of its potential, the following ones have been selected based on, inter alia, availability of information: the level of production sold, financial results obtained, as well as the level of intensification of exports and imports. The production sold for the industry is presented in Figure 1 (statistical data for the years 2008-2017; the lack of complete data in 2007). While analyzing this information, it can be noticed that production sold by sectors shows the biggest values in the case of output of textile products. In 2008, this production amounted to PLN 8,090.2 million and, in 2017, to PLN 14,749.7 million. Manufacture of wearing apparel in 2008 amounted to PLN 9,527.5 million and, in 2017, to PLN 9,442.5 million. On the other hand, leather goods and related products amounted to PLN 3,298.9 million in 2008 and to PLN 5,549.5 million in 2017. There was a noticeable decline in sold production in the three sectors under study during the financial crisis in the years 2009 and 2010. It was only in 2011 that the rate of growth of sold production was significantly higher compared to that in 2010. In sum, there was a total increase in sold production in the textile sector from PLN 20,916 million in 2008 to PLN 29,742 million in 2017.
In the period between 2008 and 2016, exports of industrial goods ( Figure 1) from the manufacturing sector of textile products, wearing apparel, as well as leather and related products developed rapidly. In 2008, exports of textile products amounted to PLN 5,572 million and, in 2017, to PLN 11,034 million. The growth in the wearing apparel sector was even higher: exports increased from PLN 8,123 million in 2008 to PLN 22,315 million in 2017. In the sector of leather and related products, the value of exports rose from PLN 2,051 million in 2008 to PLN 8,949 million in 2017. A significant increase in the rate of growth of exports of industrial goods can be noticed in 2010 compared to that in 2009, when economic downturn was experienced by many countries that imported these goods from Poland. Exports of products from the textile sector increased from PLN 15,746 million in 2008 to PLN 42.298 million in 2017.
In spite of the crisis, significant funds were still invested mainly in machines and devices in 2009. The collapse in demand in the EU market, the most important market for the Polish export, did not considerably affect the output in Poland. It is worth mentioning that the wearing apparel sector in Poland is the biggest export category due to the fact that the process of manufacture substantially involves modern technologies. Moreover, Poland is -because of the short distance to Western Europe and presence of a well-qualified workforce, along with advanced know-how -is a perfect place to locate the textile manufacturing sector. Therefore, there is a potential for the development and growth of exports, especially of fashionable high-quality products made of special modern fabrics characterized by a high level of creativity and addressed to selected groups of customers [1].
Among the imported industrial products (Figure 1), the highest value was achieved by products from the wearing apparel sector, which, in 2017, amounted to PLN 26,742 million, compared to PLN 8,142   During the period of transformation when mass imports from China could be observed [10,11], Polish companies and institutions turned to production and research activity, which enabled them to survive. Additionally, while using funds from the EU, the State, and their own financial resources, they invested in research and development (R&D) in the textile industry. For example, microspectrofluorimetry techniques were developed in laboratories to examine the structure of biomaterials to test modern "smart" fabrics and products for medicine. New circular knitting machines were used to manufacture swimwear or outfits for athletics. Special ironing lines were introduced for products made of fabrics such as klimeo, with thermoregulatory and self-smoothing properties. The innovative technology of digital printing for textiles made of cellulose fibers with excellent moisture-resistant properties was developed, and new delicate fabrics made of bamboo fibers and others began to be produced [12,13].
In order to develop the textile industry, it is necessary to invest in new technologies, machines, and projects. Another argument in favor of investing in the textile industry is a growing demand for textiles, wearing apparel, and leather goods. It is worth emphasizing that expenditures for the textile sector affect the potential and attractiveness of this sector. There are obviously development opportunities for the textileclothing industry if adequate financial resources are devoted to investments in research and on R&D equipment [15]. The expenditures on R&D activities and devices in the textile sector amounted to PLN 20 million [in 2008] and to PLN 33.2 million in 2017. Similarly, in the textile market, without outlays on activities in the area of product and process innovations, development problems may occur. Outlays on innovative activity increased in the textile sector from PLN 82 million in 2008 relative to PLN 227 million in 2017 [14].

Materials and methods
In order to determine and assess the attractiveness level of individual Polish regions for the development of the textile sector in relation to specific microclimates, which determine the development of this sector, the pseudo-single-feature indicator described in the literature on the subject was used. Turning to the construction of a pseudo-single-feature indicator determining the attractiveness of Polish voivodships in terms of creating optimal conditions for the development of enterprises in the textile sector, it should be mentioned that the research presented in this article was carried out in an analogous way to the study contained in Godlewska-Majkowska's book entitled, "Atrakcyjność inwestycyjna polskich regionów. W poszukiwaniu nowych miar" [Investment attractiveness of Polish regions. In search of new measures] [14]. The indicator used in the further part of the work was calculated using the weightcorrelative method, which is most often used when examining the investment attractiveness of regions and voivodships. The indicator presented was designated as a weighted average of fi ve microclimates, into which the variables best describing the investment climate in voivodships were grouped. Variables were adjusted to comparability using the unitarization method. It consists in dividing the value of a variable or its distance from one of the borders by the gap [9].
The following formulas were used for this purpose [16]: • in the case of destimulants: • in the case of stimulants: As a result of this operation, each of the variables has been standardized to values within the <0;1> range. In the case of positive variables, a value of one was received by the voivodship that had the highest indicator among all the voivodships examined. Negative variables, on the other hand, assumed values equal to one for voivodships that were characterized by the lowest indicator of a negative phenomenon. The next step of the study was to calculate the vector of arithmetic means for each of the fi ve microclimates and then to calculate the pseudo-single-feature indicator of investment attractiveness. The results obtained in this way were used in the next stage to calculate the correlation coeffi cients between the initial indicator of investment attractiveness and the coeffi cients for each of the microclimates separately. According to the correlation-weight method, the obtained correlation coeffi cients were used in the next step as weights for the weighted average, which was used to recalculate the average from the previous step with the difference that the arithmetic mean was used for the fi rst iteration and the weighted average for subsequent iterations. These operations are repeated until the correlation coeffi cients stabilize [17]. However, before calculating the pseudo-single-feature indicator for each of the voivodships, the variables were selected and divided into microclimates, which present the most important areas taken into account by potential investors when choosing a place for new economic activities. It should be emphasized that over the past two decades, the European textile sector has undergone a profound transformation [18]. The development of regions also of countries that are in the process of accession means seeking innovation not only in areas in which the region has specialized so far, but also in new niches, which implies the development of competitiveness [19]. The analysis used 17 variables, which were grouped into fi ve microclimates. The variables in the study acting as stimulants cause a positive impact on the region's attractiveness for the textile sector development, while destimulating variables have a negative impact. Names of all variables, their affi liation to microclimates, and the nature of their impact on the attractiveness indicator are presented in Table 1.
The next stage of the study was to group the attractiveness of the voivodships studied into six classes. The class intervals were calculated based on the arithmetic mean and the standard deviation of the calculated attractiveness indicators. Average values and standard deviations for both the analyzed years are presented in Table 2.
On the basis of the obtained statistics, six classes of attractiveness were determined. The following are presented in order from Class A, the most attractive for investors, to Class F, which includes the least-attractive cities. These classes are left-bounded closed intervals with lower bounds [16]: • Class A: arithmetic mean + standard deviation; • Class B: arithmetic mean + 0.5 x standard deviation; • Class C: arithmetic mean; • Class D: arithmetic mean -0.5 x standard deviation; • Class F: arithmetic mean -standard deviation; • Class G: 0.

Results and discussion
The These regions have well-developed technical infrastructure, an extensive market, low level of registered unemployment rates, and relatively high average gross wages and salaries. The textile industry is often located in industrial districts of big cities because it is very labor intensive and its operation is profitable only on a large scale of production.
Statistical data indicate that the textile industry in Poland is experiencing a clear crisis. Due to the decline in exports and competition due to cheap goods from imports (mainly from East Asia), many thriving factories had to be closed. This resulted in high unemployment, especially in the Łódź region. Therefore, the regions in which the textile sector has the least  (Table 4).
Variables describing microclimates are characterized by a large territorial diversity. In 2007, the highest variability was recorded for the data describing the region's wealth (V = 101%). The data for the "Condition and protection of the environment" microclimate had the smallest variability (V = 19%). Based on the calculated pseudo-single-feature indicator, it should be noted that the group of the most attractive regions for the textile sector includes Masovia and Silesia. The averages that characterize individual microclimates for these regions indicate that the factors that influence the development of the textile sector most strongly are as follows: financial conditions, demographic conditions, and the region's wealth. For each of    In 2017, the volatility of values for particular microclimates decreased ( for the "Region's wealth" variable, V = 87%); however, there are still significant disparities between the regions. In the year concerned, Lesser Poland joined the group of the most attractive regions creating the optimal climate for the development of the textile sector. The study showed that within 10 years, favorable changes took place in the region in terms of financial conditions, which, as can be seen, constitute an important variable determining the development of the textile sector. An unfavorable drop from Class D to Class F was recorded by the Łódź Province. The crisis in the region and, thus, the lack of an appropriate climate for the development of the textile sector consists still in the lack of adequate technical infrastructure, as well as the probable outflow of young, talented, and creative residents.

Conclusions
Attracting investors and creating optimal conditions for the development of individual branches of the economy are very important elements of local government policy making, because they cause the flow of capital, which allows dynamic economic development of the region. The analysis in this study was aimed at determining the attractiveness level of individual Polish regions for the development of the textile sector in relation to five microclimates, which somehow define the most important determinants of the development of this sector of the economy.
The textile industry deals in the production of products, such as cloths and clothing from woven fabrics, personal underwear and bed linen, kitchen linens, clothing and leather goods, woven fabrics, carpets, rugs, tulles, lace, furs, footwear, and so on, based on natural raw materials. The textile industry is one of the most labor-intensive sectors of the economy and, at the same time, the least effective. In many regions of Poland, it represented a significant share in the economy, but its significance has significantly decreased in the past two decades. Based on the theoretical basis and data from the Local Data Bank of Statistics Poland, an indicator of attractiveness of regions was established in terms of conditions