THE PSYCHOLOGY BEHIND THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN FASHION DESIGN & ARCHITECTURE

Sana Mahmoud Abbasi. Chair of the Fashion Design Program, Dar Al-Hekma University, Jeddah, KSA. ...................................................................................................................... Manuscript Info Abstract ......................... ........................................................................ Manuscript History Received: 07 September 2018 Final Accepted: 09 October 2018 Published: November 2018

It has been proven that fashion and architecture have many connections, as they both aim to "make" shelters for the human beings. This relationship has led to closer inspirations between the two disciplines, which makes them share the same boundaries: Both architects and fashion designers wish to create perfect, comfortable and beautiful forms for the human body. [Ukessays, April 30, 2018]. On the other hand, there are major differences between architecture and fashion, such as the length of time fashion lasts, which is shorter than architectural structures that are timeless. Fashion also depends highly on marketing and consumption while architecture is monumental and eternal. [Jonah Lehrer, April 14, 2011] stated that we spend our lives inside buildings, nevertheless, there's surprisingly little research on the psychological implications of architecture, and how different spaces influence cognition? The psychologists, at the University of British Columbia, 2009 were interested in looking at how the color of interior walls influence the imagination. They recruited six hundred subjects, most of them undergraduates, and had them perform a variety of basic cognitive tests displayed against red, blue or neutral colored backgrounds. The differences were striking. People who took tests in the red walls surroundings were much better at skills that required accuracy and attention to details. While the color blue, carried a completely different set of psychological benefits, and resulted in worse results on short-term memory tasks. It is because the color blue automatically triggers associations with the sky and ocean, which makes the group less focused on what's right in front of them and more aware of the possibilities in their imagination. There is also a clear connection between fashion and psychology according to the psychologist [Jennifer Baumgartner, Feb 23, 2012] who said: New things give us a neuronal payoff as when we are presented with something we have not seen before, whether it is grappling with the world of Twitter or solving our first Sudoku puzzle, all cognitive processes involved in learning (working memory, visual processing, problem solving, etc.) are enhanced. Who knew that Fashion Week and the trends born from it were good for the brain? Another interesting connection between the worlds of fashion and architecture, is that masters of each type of design have to consider elements of structure, form, and occasionally making the impossible feats of physics a reality.

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While there aren't too many designers who can do both (architecture requires some serious schooling), that doesn't mean there aren't a select few that have dipped their toes in both worlds. Some went from dressing buildings to dressing the body. Examples: Pierre Cardin, Tom Ford, Thierry Mugler, Pierre Balmain, and Zaha Hadid [Aria Darcella, Dec 12, 2017]. This research paper will look into the differences and similarities between fashion &Architecture, and will examine the hidden phycology behind this relationship Copy Right, IJAR, 2018,. All rights reserved.

Introduction:-
High fashion gets inspiration from all types of resources including the natural world, fine art, architecture, or even textiles and materials. However, the architecture is quite obvious. While architecture gives us the spaces we live in, fashion give us wearable art and makes us feel good. Fashion designers who have architectural background, construct fashion in the same manner architects utilize concrete, cement, and glass to build up their structures. Many fashion designers, such as the late Pierre Balmain, and Gianfranco Ferré, and Tom Ford were architects before becoming fashion designers. Balmain was clear in his enthusiasm for incorporating architectural elements into his designs, saying: "Dressmaking is the architecture of movement." [1]. It is apparent in their designs that they incorporate architectural elements, like elongated proportions and strong silhouettes, and design details in their Apparel. Major characteristics of fashion inspired by architecture include exaggerated proportions, structural design-lines, plunging angles, and particular attention to construction and geometric shapes. To create a threedimensional-architectural look, fabrics are often manipulated through pleating, folding, and layering in order to build up the final effects. Some of the world-renowned fashion houses like Balenciaga, Marchesa, and Chloé have included pointed architectural elements in their collections. Whether the fashion has a contemporary style or has delicate details of Arabesque architecture, each fashion designer interprets their architectural inspiration in a certain individual style. For example: The late Zaha Hadid was known to fiddle in the fashion world, bringing elements reminiscent of her own buildings into her designs [2]. From classic church interiors to cutting-edge skyscrapers, fashion designers often take inspiration from architecture because it is a very rich source of design elements that can be implemented in Fashion Design.

Why does architecture have influence on fashion and can it go the other way?
Each of the following fashion designers: Tom Ford, Raf Simons, Pierre Balmain, Pierre Cardin, and Gianni Versace before venturing into a flourishing career in fashion, have studied architecture or industrial design. Fernando Garcia, graduated with an architecture degree from Notre Dame, though he admitted secretly reading Harper's Bazar and Vogue during lectures in college. When Garcia was asked about his switch of career from architecture to fashion, he answered: "There's a great sense of satisfaction for me when I'm able to see my designs come to life in a matter of a week or two," [3]. He confirms that his degree is still applicable even when he is designing clothes, especially when it comes to a general sense of proportion: "I find a building's façade, for example, to be similar to when I'm trying to find a balance in designing any garment." Architecture serves as a timeless source of inspiration for fashion. "They are both visually driven expressions of personal taste and the times we live in," says Jane Keltner de Valle, style director at Architectural Digest [3]. Ghesquière told Suzy Menkes during an interview for Vogue.com UK on his Louis Vuitton Cruise 2016 runway show, which took place at Bob Hope's home in Palm Springs. "I think when I started at Louis Vuitton, I always had this feeling that it had to travel. And today, people travel a lot for architecture, not only for monuments, and I always thought that the exploration and voyage side of Louis Vuitton could be an architectural journey". But does fashion ever influences architects and architecture? Dragana Zoric, an adjunct associate professor of architecture at Pratt, believes that fashion and architecture are focused on assembly. "Just like there is a difference between the body and the garment that encases or covers it. For example, the difference would be minimal if clothing was body-hugging, therefore there is a relationship between the building's structure and skin," says Zoric. "Both fields utilize, as a base language, innovation, experimentation and fluency with color and texture. In this way, architecture follows fashion. "What Zoric agrees on is that fashion's advances in fabric manipulation, like digital laser cutting or the use of a 3-D printer enable the direct translation into architectural techniques used to define a building's structural surfaces". Behaviors of fabrics can be extracted and implemented to work on architectural membranes. I have taught several studios with these as themes," says Zoric. Dr. Sana Abbasi the Chair of the Fashion Design Program at Dar Al-Hekma university, Jeddah, KSA, has lectured in the architecture department about the Bio-Morphic skin of architectural structures, and the apparent relationship between fashion 676 and architecture, and stated that: "There is an apparent relationship between fashion design and architecture, as textiles play a major role in expressing the similarities between the two disciplines". The late architect Zaha Hadid, who once told Vogue.com that she'd had an interest in fashion since she was a kid. Hadid was both well-known in the fashion world and regarded as a legend in the field of architecture; she worked with high-end brands, playing a role in creating Chanel's Mobile Art Pavilion [4]. Her creations were more structural and her creations spanned from jewelry, shoes to handbags. During his tenure at Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacob has invited Hadid to design her own version of the French house's iconic bucket bag, which was on display at a special "Icons" exhibit in Paris in 2006 [2]. On the other hand, we find that fashion designers have crossed over to interior design. A good example is the famous fashion designer Kenzo Takada who recently collaborated with the high-end French furniture company Roche Bobois [5].

The relationship between fashion and architecture: Issey Miyake fashion design (FMP Precedent):
The relationship between fashion and architecture has been proven when looking at the work of the Japanese Fashion Designers / Architects: Issey Miyake and Kengo Kuma. Issey Miyake who is known for his technology driven fashion designs, has experimented with new methods of pleating textiles that allowed for the flexibility of movement for the wearer. The production methods for these pleated garments involved them being cut and sewn first, then the garments were sandwiched between two sheets of paper and fed into a heat press to enable the textile to gain its permanent pleated structure. The very fine pleats had a strong influence from the architectural elements, such as beams, and glass fine lines, and shapes. On the other hand, the architect Kengo Kuma was influenced by the pleated dresses of the Japanese fashion designer Issey Miyake, as his choice of the industrial architectural materials resembled the pleats of the soft women's dresses by Issey Miyake. Kengo Kuma used strips of perforated aluminum to create a pleated appearance to the facade of the building. This effect was achieved by using pieces of 18millimeter-wide aluminum mesh to imitate the pleating structure. The building was designed to look like a pleated draped dress, however the lengths of the aluminum were angled in the order to create the rippling effect. The pleated design continues throughout the interior and with glimpses through the facade linking the interior with the exterior of the building. The whole scheme is like a pleated flowing dress, like those designed by Issey Miyake [6].

Top 10 fashion designers influenced by architecture:
Coco Chanel said "Fashion is Architecture: it is a matter of proportions." [7]. Classic designers like Versace, Balmain and Cardin all studied architecture before switching to fashion, while legendary architects like Zaha Hadid and Frank Gehry have taken time off from designing buildings to work on jewelry, shoes and bags. There's a strong interplay between the design elements involved in both architecture and fashion, so it's not surprising that so many creative designers / architects have tried their creativity in both disciplines. The top ten architects who inspired fashion are: The hidden ways that architecture affects how we feel: Winston Churchill mentioned in 1943 that "We shape our buildings and afterwards our buildings shape us," Sure enough, more than 70 years later, he would be pleased to learn that neuroscientists and psychologists have found plenty of evidences to back up his statement. Today, it was proven that the buildings and cities can affect our mood and well-being, and the special cells in the brain are accustomed to the geometry and arrangements of the spaces we inhabit. Yet urban architects have often paid enough attention to the potential cognitive effects of their creations on a city's inhabitants [8]. There are some really good evidence-based guidelines on how to design user-friendly buildings, says Ruth Dalton, who studies both architecture and cognitive science at North Umbria University in Newcastle. The conscious cities conference that took place in London on May, 3, 2017, considered how cognitive scientists might make their discoveries more accessible to architects. The conference brought together architects, designers, engineers, neuroscientists and psychologists, all of whom increasingly cross paths at an academic level, 677 but still rarely in practice. One of the conference speakers, Alison Brooks, an architect who specializes in housing and social design, told BBC Future that psychology-based insights could change how cities are built. "If science could help the design profession justify the value of good design and craftsmanship, it would be a very powerful tool and quite possibly transform the quality of the built environment", she says. Born in Toronto, Canada, Alison Brooks is a London-based award-winning architect, and the creative and principal director of Alison Brooks Architects (ABA) [9]. Her belief in the transformative social role of architecture underlies a commitment to housing and urban design. Most recently, Alison designed The Smile, a hugely successful landmark project for the 2016 London Design Festival. Constructed of cross-laminated American tulipwood, this habitable arc sparked a global audience through its pure form, its inventive use of material and its extraordinary engineering achievement [10]. The current psychological studies help us to have a much better idea of the kind of urban environments that people find stimulating. In addition, the wearable devices such as bracelets that monitor skin conductance (A marker of physiological arousal), smartphone apps that ask subjects about their emotional state, and electroencephalogram (EEG) headsets that measure brain activity relating to mental states and mood have become helpful tools to measure the physiological arousal and psychological effects on the brain in relation to the environment and space we live in. Vancouver, which surveys consistently rate as one of the most popular cities to live in, has made a virtue of this, with its downtown building policies geared towards ensuring that residents have a decent view of the mountains, forest and ocean to the north and west. As green space appears to improve health. A study of the population of England in 2008 found that the health effects are far less pronounced in greener areas [8]. The importance of urban design goes far beyond feel-good aesthetics. A number of studies have shown that growing up in a city doubles the chances of someone developing schizophrenia, and increases the risk for other mental disorders such as depression and chronic anxiety.

Theories and psychological effects of architecture and space on humans:
One theory is that the visual complexity of natural environments acts as a kind of mental balm. The 2013 virtual reality experiment in Iceland in which participants viewed various residential street scenes and found out that the ones with the most architectural variation to be the most mentally engaging. Another study published in 2017, concluded that most people feel better in rooms with curved edges and rounded contours than in sharp-edged rectangular rooms. People are far more likely to call a room beautiful when its design is round instead of linear. The reason may be hard-wired into the brain states Eric Jaffe [12]. When the great architect Philip Johnson first visited the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao, designed by Frank Gehry, he started to cry. "Architecture is not about words. It's about tears," Johnson said [12]. Something about the museum's majestic curves moved him at an emotional level. Many others must get a similar feeling, because the building is usually ranked among the most important in modern times [13]. When people are asked to choose between an object that's linear and one that's curved, they prefer the curved, and that goes for watches with circular faces, letters rendered in a curvey font, couches with smooth cushions-even dental floss with round packaging.

Fashion and Psychology: What clothes say about you?
The clothes we wear send powerful signals to our peers, projecting our self-image that we want to display.Yet, how many of us truly understand the psychology behind how people interpret our images, apparel choices, and how this impression may be different than what we are trying to portray? Many psychological surveys have revealed the true impact of the choices of clothing, on the way in which we perceive and judge each other, with experiments showing some surprising results. Research has proven that men also have insecurities with regards to clothes. Men have shown to be often more self-conscious than females with regards to their personal dress sense, and the way in which they are viewed in public [14]. Fashion choices can affect both our self-image, the impression that we convey to others, and the way in which people behave towards us. Power dressing was proven to have a positive influence on job performance. According to a research conducted by Matthew Huston, and Tori Rodrigues, on January 1, 2016, what we wear can influence our thinking and negotiating skills, even hormone levels, and heart rate [15]. It was proven that wearing formal business attire increases the abstract thinking, an important aspect of creativity, and long-term strategizing. The experiments suggested proved that there is a strong relationship between power dressing and feelings of power. Color however, played a big factor in the psychology of clothing, as researchers found that valuing uniqueness increased audience members' ratings of the status and competence of a professor who wore red Converse sneakers while giving a lecture. The Shoe designer Louboutin has made fame from the red-sole trademark, and women are willing to pay the high price of the most luxurious shoes in the market, because they make them feel, feminine, superior, and unique. Louboutin says: "Red means love, passion, blood. What matters most is how women feel about themselves when they step into my shoes". [16].

Why clothes matter: What your wardrobe says about you:
Today's apparel tells so much about our personality, because of the availability of many categories, styles, and trends. Technical advancements over centuries have made fashion choices more significant. However, in earlier civilizations, the main purpose of clothing was to keep us warm and relatively dry, and today we have central heating that warms our homes, therefore reducing our dependence on clothes alone to help us to survive. Clothes that are utilized to protect us from weather conditions, are now what make us look good, and have a social status. They help us represent ourselves in the way we like to be perceived by others. In many societies, the way we dress expresses our personal wealth, and taste. The length of the women's garments depends on the economic status. Economist George Taylor demonstrated this most vividly with the "Hemline Index". The notion that hemlines rise during economic upswings, and head towards the floor in downturns [17]. As with many animals, the concept of mate selection in evolutionary. Psychology suggests that our behavior is determined by our efforts to find a mate and to reproduce. Just like the peackock displays his colorful feathers to attract a female partner. In humans, however, our ability to be stylish, and creative in the way we dress, gives us an equivalent advantage in being able to be unique, and to be distinguished in a crowd, and to demonstrate our individuality in an effort to find a mate. On the contrary, we may dress in a uniform and hide our individuality and merge in the crowd.

How color can affect human's perception of others:
Color is considered to be a visual language. It can influence our thinking, and can affect how humans act. Red can lead to anger, while green can help us to become calm. The usage of certain colors can lead to happy feelings, as well as sadness. Some colors even cause a feeling of hunger as well. Colors can also contribute to a person's sense of identity and human social interaction [18]. Researchers photographed people in different colored clothes and then asked participants to rate the attractiveness of people in the resulting photos. They found that the color of clothing affects the way in which men rate both males' and females' attractiveness, and how women rate men's attractiveness. Interestingly however, clothing color did not influence women's judgments of other females. Red clothes were proven to lead participants to rate subjects more favorably in terms of attractiveness compared to when they wore clothes of other colors. It was found that when waitresses wore red colored T-shirts during their shifts serving in a restaurant, men left higher tips than to the ones wearing other colors. However, the shirt color was irrelevant to the tips left by female customers.

Conclusion:-
There is an apparent relationship between architecture and fashion design, and it has been proven that fashion design and architecture have many areas in common. Both disciplines are design based, and share the same boundaries, as they both create comfortable, and beautiful forms to shelter the human body [Ukessays, April 30, 2018]. However, there are major differences between fashion design and architecture, such as the length of time fashion lasts, which is shorter than architectural structures that are timeless. Fashion also depends highly on marketing and consumption while architecture is monumental and eternal. What is interesting is that the top fashion designers in the world are architects, such as Pierre Cardian and Tom Ford. These architects have created fashion using the same concept of building and construction, as fashion design is based on constructing pieces of material to make the whole garment, these architects/ fashion designers have created garments that look like structural shapes, with interesting combinations of materials. On the other hand, we find architects who were inspired by fashion designers as in the case of the architect Kengo Kuma, who got inspired from the fashion designer Issay Miyake and created a building that looked like one of Issey Miyake pleated dresses. Many famous architects have ventured in the fashion design world and have created products and accessories such as the late world-renowned architect Zaha Hadid, who has designed a bag for Louis Vuitton. It was also proven that the buildings and cities can affect our mood, and that we tend to feel more comfortable in a space with curved edges and rounded contours than one with sharp-edges. Color also plays a vital role in affecting how we feel in both disciplines, fashion design and architecture. The color of the wall's interiors influences our imagination, and can affect the way we perform. For example; people who took tests in the red walls surroundings were much better at skills that required accuracy and attention to detail. While the color blue, carried a completely different set of psychological benefits, and resulted in worse results on short-term memory tasks. Men tipped waitresses wearing red T-shirts more than the ones wearing different colors. Louboutin says: "Red means love, passion, blood", and his trademark shoes with the red sole have made women spend lots of money just so they feel good about themselves when they step into his luxurious shoes. Fashion choices can also affect our self-image, the impression that we convey to others, and the way in which people behave towards us. Power dressing was proven to have a positive influence on the job performance. The economic status also has an apparent influence on fashion, as in the hemline index, hemlines head towards the floor in downturns. We also dress to impress and to attract the opposite sex, and on the contrary we may dress in a uniform to hide our identity. As 679 there is an apparent relationship between fashion design and architecture, and there are many psychological factors that are related to each discipline, it is apparent that the psychology behind the relationship between fashion design and architecture is embedded in the shapes, colors, and constructions as they all affect the way we feel, perform, and express ourselves.

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