Effect of weave type on abrasive strength of cotton fiber

Abrasion has a strong relationship with the overall performance of fabrics. There are number of factors that have an impact of abrasive strength of textile materials. These include type of fiber, nature of yarn, yarn number, weave structure and type, number of interlacing in warp and weft. Abraded fabrics look bad in appearance and they no longer can be able to give required service for which they are intended to provide. This study aimed at determining the effect of various weave types on abrasive strength of cotton fabric. The fabric was manufactured through ring spinning technique with three weave structures such as plain, twill and satin. Manufactured fabrics were evaluated for their abrasive strength by following ASTM 4966 test standard. These were evaluated at various laundering intervals such as at 0, 5, 10 and 15. The mass loss in percentage of was then calculated. It was concluded that plain weave structure was the most strongest in terms of its abrasive strength followed by twill and satin. Small floats helped to make the fabric hold components yarns together and provide cohesion to the finished product. It is important for the textile manufacturers and fashion designers to look for various weave structures and their impact on products in order to make creative variations to attract their customers.


Introduction
The performance behavior of fabrics largely depends on many technical aspects that must be planned and designed during manufacturing phase [1]. Weaving structure of finished fabrics is one of the main causes of its high or low performance, as it has a strong relationship with an overall performance. Moreover, some other factors have also an indirect effect on the serviceability of end product such as weaving environment, temperature, humidity, yarn density, yarn number, interlacing pattern and yarn tension etc. [2]. Woven fabrics are made by interlacing two sets of yarns, one running in the lengthwise direction known as warp or ends and another running crosswise is known as weft or picks [3]. Fibers content, yarn structure and weave type are some of the important key factors that dictate the performance of an end product. They affect many physical and chemical properties of fabrics [4]. Woven fabrics are supposed to provide strength to the material and are considered long lasting as compared to any other manufacturing technique. Their performance behavior in terms of strength, flexibility, extensibility and durability is depended on the way of interlacing of yarns in warp and weft directions, thread count per inch, type of twist and yarn count [5]. Woven materials are more versatile due to their unique construction. They can have variation in their appearance through change in number of upward and downward harnesses. There are many weave structures which have an effect on the external forces applied on the end product creating change in appearance and shape. The weaving structure also affects the mechanical behavior of products such as the way of load, stress and strain curve, percentage of extension and applied force etc.
[6]. Fabrics undergo many wear and tear conditions with the passage of time. The resistance against abrasion is a very complex phenomenon. It has a strong relationship with the durability and strength of fabrics. It is of great importance in apparel, upholstery and technical textiles.
[7]. Abrasion is the rupture of component fibers, yarns and fabrics due to their rubbing over some other surface. This deteriorates an overall performance of fabrics. It also differs from individual to individual due to their style of using and caring the garments [8]. It may be caused due to simple rubbing, during wear and tear conditions and while laundering methods Pilling caused by rubbing is always a problem for woven and knitted fabrics. It displaces the fibers or yarns from their original place and creates small bundles that strongly anchor to the fabric surface. Abrasion can completely damage the fabric by tearing a yarn or thread, decreasing its thickness, changing color and even making a hole in the fabric. This problem aggravates more in filament yarns especially made from synthetic fibers [11, 12]. The harshness caused by abrasion is usually based on particle size, its shape, force applied and frequency of rubbing against any abrader [13]. One state of abrasion occurs where solid particles are able to move their place from one area to another and damage the surface. Whereas, another state is caused where particles are roll away from the surface of substrate [12].

Materials and methods
Ring spun yarns were produced to make woven fabrics with cotton fibers. Three types of weaves such as plain, twill and satin were selected to manufacture these fabrics. The manufacturing process was done at Nishat Mills Private Limited. Construction parameters of manufactured fabrics are given in (Table 1). These fabrics were then tested for their abrasive strength at 0, 5, 10 and 15 washing intervals. . It has been observed changes in luster and brightness of observed samples of woven fabric before and after their abrasive cycles. It was concluded that after abrasion, samples became flat and smooth and their brightness was changed due to the color loss from the surface. Yarns were suppressed due to pressure and making alterations in the light reflection and absorption at specific points. The resultant fabric appeared in combination of light and dark tones throughout its vertical length [20]. Table 3 depicts that there is a significant difference among samples made with twill and satin weave as the p-value was 0.01 and 0.00 respectively at 1000, 2000 and 3000 rubbing cycles after 0,5,10 and 15 washes. Whereas, there is an insignificant difference among samples manufactured by following plain interlacing pattern as pvalue is greater than 0.05. It can be said that less number of interlacing helped to provide strength to the woven fabric. Plain interlacing pattern of construction is better able to make fabric strong in terms of tensile and abrasion. It was due to the reason that yarns are closely packed to each other. They make a dense cover and provide protection to the substrate (Table 3).

Table 3. Tests of within-subjects contrasts at various rubbing cycles
On the other hand, long floats are more prone to abrasion such as in the case of satin weave. There are more chances of yarn slippage with long floats as well. [21]. Uneven yarns are low in their abrasive strength due to their thick and thin regions. These irregularities make the fabric weak and unable to bear the pressure of abrasion. [22]. Coarse yarns are supposed to be low in their abrasive strength than fine yarns. Because these yarns are weak in nature and unable to resist any external pressure. Their surface is not smooth, they do not help to constitute strong base thus low in quality [23].
With an increase in laundering cycles, the mass of tested samples was reduced due to vigorous rubbing in the washing machine.