Development of Scented Bow-Tie : User Experience

The bow-tie is a male and female fashion accessory. It can be made in diff erent designs and of diff erent materials, and by connecting diff erent research areas, it can also be given various functionalities. In the study, knowledge on textile materials, printing and microencapsulation was combined with sensory perception (senses of smell and vision), which plays an important role especially in marketing. In the process from an idea through the invention to fi nal innovation, we were able to develop a new product, i.e. a scented bow-tie. In the research, microcapsules with a melamine formaldehyde shell, and fragranced female and male oil in the core were produced and analysed (size, size distribution and shell permeability). Microcapsules were applied with the screen printing technique to selected textile materials which were later used for designing bow-ties. Forty bow-ties were used in the continuation of the research, together with a questionnaire of bow-tie testing, distributed between male and female users, who were testing the bow-ties for three months. By means of the questionnaire, information on the characteristics, intensity and duration of the fragrance as well as the likeability of bow-ties and packaging was gathered and analysed. To obtain specifi c target groups for the designed bow-ties, the method of motivation groups was included into the questionnaire. The obtained results enabled the conclusion that the microcapsules with fragrance oil were just slightly permeable (male slightly less than female). Therefore, diff usion of fragrance through the shell was gentle, pleasant and discreet, which was an important characteristic of our bow-ties. After each wear, fragrance faded; the users were hence instructed to rub the bowties between their fi ngers. Consequently, microcapsules ruptured and the fragrance was again released from the core. For the bow-tie users, this was an amusing experience, since the fragrance lasted for the predicted ten wears and even longer. The added value of bow-ties was recognised in interesting decorative patterns printed on the face, in their elegant design and shape, as well as in the pleasant fragrance, which was characterised as an alpha motive for the male users and stayed unidentifi ed by the female users.


Izvleček
Modni metulj je tako moški kot tudi ženski modni dodatek.Izdelan je lahko v različnih oblikah in iz najrazličnejših materialov, pri čemer mu lahko s povezovanjem posameznih raziskovalnih področij dodamo tudi druge funkcionalnosti.V raziskavi smo znanje s področja tekstilnih materialov, tiska in mikrokapsuliranja povezali s področjem čutne zaznave (čutili za vonj in vid), ki v zadnjem desetletju, predvsem na področju marketinga, igra pomembno vlogo.V postopku od ideje do invencije in končne inovacije smo tako razvili nov izdelek, tj.dišeči modni metulj.V ta namen smo izdelali mikrokapsule z melamin formaldehidno ovojnico, v njihovo jedro pa smo ujeli dišeča olja (z moškim in ženskim vonjem).Mikrokapsule smo v nadaljevanju preskušali (porazdelitev in velikost ter prepustnost stene) ter nato z metodo sitotiska nanesli na tri izbrane tekstilne materiale, ki smo jih uporabili za izdelavo metuljev.Štirideset metuljev smo skupaj s priloženim dnevnikom o nošenju razdelili med ženske in moške uporabnike, ki so modne metulje testirali tri mesece.Na podlagi dnevnika smo pridobili in analizirali informacije o intenziteti in 1 Introduction Th e bow-tie fi rst appeared in the early 19 th century, namely as a tie which can be tied in numerous ways.By the mid-1880s, it became a major fashion accessory in the men's wardrobe.In that time, two patents were registered, in which the bow-tie was named a "neckscarf " [1] and "necktie" [2].In the past, the bow-tie went through numerous changes [3][4][5][6], and superseded all of its formal and traditional stereotypes.From the street style, to fashion shows and high fashion celebrities, the bow-tie was integrated into diff erent styles and ways of wearing.Th e classic way of wearing a bow-tie has changed and gained new dimensions.For a long time, the bow-tie was only a male fashion accessory, however, when new subcultures appeared, even women started to wear them [7], e.g.celebrity actors Marlene Dietrich and Katharine Hepburn, who appeared in men's suits with bow-ties in a photo from the 1930s [8][9][10].Today, bow-ties can be worn by both genders, at any occasion, at many subcultures, e.g.hipsters etc. Th ey can be designed in the form of a diff erently sized butterfl y, batwing, diamond point and rounded club [10,11], and tied as a "self-tie", "pre-tied" or with a "clip" located on the bow-tie [10,12].Generally, they are made of textile materials (most commonly silk, cotton, polyester etc), although other materials have become popular as well but are still rarely used, e.g.wood, Plexiglas, plastics, metal etc. Th e aim of our research was to design and upgrade a bow-tie with added value.At the beginning, requirements for such bow-ties were set up as follows: bow-ties need to be designed from textile material; they need to be created in conventional manner -(folding the material into appropriate shape and later sewn); production costs of newly developed bow-ties should not exceed the classical production costs by more than 10%; and fi nally, the bow-tie should have a "personal note" the users could identify themselves with.According to the requirements, several ideas were presented but we have focused only on one, i.e. the scented bow-tie.Scented bow-ties can easily be personalised with specifi c fragrance and aesthetic appearance.Keeping that in mind, we started exploring the possibility of its creation by setting the main process activities: 1. scented bow-tie should be designed from the textile material on which fragrance oil will be applied; 2. due to fragrance oils quickly losing their scent, the microencapsulation process should be introduced into the research with which fragranced male (in the continuation MC-MF) and female (in the continuation MC-FF) oils should be entrapped inside the core and thus protected against premature evaporation; 3. microcapsules should have a melamine formaldehyde shell, which is slightly permeable and ruptures under shear forces; 4. microcapsules should be applied to textile materials with the conventional screen printing procedure; 5. bow-tie should be designed with a classical process from selected material; 6. according to the planned process of bow-tie design, its production costs will slightly increase (depending on the market price of microcapsules and costs of added printing phase).In accordance with the predicted process activities, the development and designing of scented bow-ties started.

Materials and methods
Microcapsules with a melamine formaldehyde shell and fragrance oil in the core were produced, analysed and applied to a selected textile material from which bow-ties were designed and tested by the participants in the research.Th e materials and methods are described in the continuation.

Materials
Microcapsules with a melamine formaldehyde shell and single core, in which fragrance oil was entrapped, were synthetized by modifi ed in situ polymerisation through the following stages: 1) preparation of an aqueous solution of modifying agent; 2) emulsifi cation of core material; 3) addition of partly methylated trimethylolmelamine (Melamin, Slovenia) amino-aldehyde prepolymer for shell formation; 4) induction of polycondensation reaction; 5) polycondensation process (for about 1 hour) -formation of microcapsules; 6) termination of polycondensation; 7) removal of the released formaldehyde by adding ammonia scavenger; and 8) cooling to the room temperature.Th e fi nal form of microcapsules was suspension.Microcapsules consisted of approximately 80-85% core material, while the rest belonged to the shell.For the core material, two commercial male and female fragrance oils were used (Tovarna Organika, Slovenia).Th e male fragrance oil consisted of a mixture of soft bergamot oil on the basis of ambergris, orange blossom, vanilla, sandalwood and sweet musk.Th e female fragrance oil was an aquatic fl oral substance that opens with top notes of lotus, freesia and cyclamen.Th e hart of the female fragrance oil was composed of the elements of peonies, lilies and carnations.For the bow-tie design, three types of textile materials were used, i.e. soft 100% polyester satin fabric with glossy surface (thread density: weft 33 cm -1 , warp 42 cm -1 ), adhesive nonwoven interlining (73% viscose, 27% polyester) and light-weighted taff eta weaved cotton batiste fabric (thread density: weft 37 cm -1 , warp 45 cm -1 ) as the carrier of microcapsules.Bow-tie design: Satin was reinforced with an adhesive nonwoven interlining and later cut into rectangular 25.5 × 14.5 cm shapes.On the front side of each rectangle, decorative patterns were printed.Microcapsules in 20% mass conc.(according to previous testing) were mixed with printing ink (Elastil Comprente, Minerva, Italy) and applied with screen printing to the surface of batiste material.Th e screen printing technique was performed manually.Th e screen was made of an aluminium frame and PET mesh with the thread density of 43 cm -1 , monofi lament diameter 80 μm, thread angle 0° and load tension 15 N.All prints were made with two passages of the squeegee, air-dried and cured by ironing at 150 °C temperature.Th e batiste material with microcapsules was lodged to the inner side of the composed satin-interlined material composition.Th e long sided edges of rectangles were folded backwards, up to the middle; furthermore, the same was performed with short sided edges, giving us a smaller rectangle, which was sewed and folded into the fi nal design of the bow-tie (Figure 1).

Figure 1: Bow-tie fi nal design
Bow-ties were stored in specially designed paperboard boxes (Figure 2), the purpose of which was not only to protect the product against external infl uences (dust, dirt etc), but also to retain the fragrance inside the box.Th e box was constructed in EngViewSystems (EngView Systems Sofi a JSC, Bulgaria), cut out on a cutter plotter Pirina 700 (Pirina Technologies, Bulgaria) and creased with head pressure 0.50 MPa.

Methods
Th e morphological properties of microcapsules (MC-MF and MC-FF) and printed materials were observed with a scanning electron microscope (SEM, JSM 6060 LV, Jeol).Th e samples were fi xed on the SEM specimen stub and covered with an ultra-thin coating of gold (with high vacuum evaporation).Th e size of microcapsules was determined from the SEM images with the use of ImageJ soft ware and size distribution curves were drawn from the results of size measurements.Th e release behaviour of microcapsules was tested according to Hwang et al [13].Th e aqueous suspension of microcapsules was added into an aluminium cup (5 × 7 cm in size); the sample was then placed into a drying oven at 25 °C for 5 days.Each day at the same time, the samples were weighted and placed back into the oven.Each time, mass loss was calculated according to the following Equation (1): where A 0 presents the weight (g) of the microcapsule suspension before the release test and A n presents the weight (g) of microcapsules aft er n days of release test (n = 1-5).Th e fi st calculated mass loss aft er 1 day corresponded to water evaporation and the residual material corresponded to dry mass/ share of microcapsules in the suspension.Further drying in the following four days corresponded to the weight loss caused by the porosity of shell.On textile materials, the following parameters were determined: mass per unit area according to EN 12127 [14], thickness according to ISO 5084 [15] and crease recovery angle according to ISO 2313 [16].Th e mean value of the recovery angle was calculated from the mean values of measurements in warp and weft directions as follows (Equation 2): where α 5(warp) and α 5(weft ) present the mean values of the crease recovery angles obtained in warp and weft directions, respectively.Th e bow-tie testing was performed with a subjective user experience wear test by 15 male and 16 female diff erently aged participants.Th ey wore bow-ties at diff erent occasions (e.g.concerts, parties, every day at work etc) from November 2015 to January 2016, meaning that the surrounding factors (open/close area, with less or more diff erent surrounding smells) could have infl uence on the results.Th e test was performed as follows: the packaging with a bow-tie and wear instructions was given to each participant, who had to wear the bow-tie for at least 10 times.During the wear test, they had to fi ll in a questionnaire relating to the bow-tie and the packaging properties, the characteristics as well as the duration and intensity of the released fragrance.Within this test, the participants evaluated the fragrance also according to the motivation groups which are commonly used by companies for identifying target customer groups according to their tastes, life views, interests and opinions.For this purpose, 20 motivation images, representing four basic motivational groups, were used (Figure 3): alpha group is motivated on the basis of their status in society, status symbols, self-esteem, prestige, luxury etc; discovery (adventure) group is motivated by challenges, discovering new things, exploring, sport, adventure and other experiences; security group represents the type of people for which the most important value is security, home, family, stability and predictability; social group highlights features such as companionship, society, entertainment, leisure, spontaneity and humour.Among 20 pictures, representing four diff erent motivation groups, participants had to choose 5 of them.Th e results were then analysed in Microsoft Excel.Th e results of the wear test were analysed and are presented in the continuation as: 1) evaluation of bow-ties, packaging and fragrance before wear test, 2) evaluation of presence, intensity and fading of fragrance during test, and 3) evaluation of bow-ties fragrance and appearance/damages aft er the test.

Properties of microcapsules
SEM analyses showed (Figure 4) that both types of microcapsules (MC-MF and MC-FF) were undamaged and spherical.Th e size distribution curve of the MC-MF microcapsules was bimodal, with two distinctive size ranges: from 3 μm to 15 μm, in which 14.2% of MC-MF microcapsules were presented, and from 15 μm to 36 μm with 83.1% of microcapsules.Th e remained 2.8% of the MC-MF microcapsules were larger than 36 μm and their average size was 23.5 μm (σ = 8.42 μm).MC-FF microcapsules were smaller, on average 15.5 μm in size (σ = 5.10 μm), while the size distribution curve was just slightly bimodal, with two ranges of sizes, i.e. 24% of MC-FF microcapsules was in the range from 2.8 μm to 12.0 μm, while 74.4% of microcapsules was presented in the second range from 12 μm to 26.4 μm.Th e remained 1.6% belonged to the microcapsules larger than 26.4 μm.
Th e size of microcapsules is one of the factors, which infl uences the release properties: when microcapsules are small (below 10 μm [17]), they cannot be easily broken (especially under shear forces) and thus the yield of the released fragrance is limited.In contrast, when microcapsules are large (more than 30-40 μm [17]), they can easily be ruptured, the release of the core material is instant and the smell of the sample is ephemeral.According to Bône et al [17], the microcapsules with sizes between 10-40 μm are the best compromise.Th e release behaviour/shell porosity of microcapsules aft er 5 days at 25 °C is presented in Figure 5. Aft er the fi rst day, the decrease in the microcapsule suspension weight corresponded to water evaporation, while the residue corresponded to the dry mass/share of microcapsules in the aqueous suspension which was 53.6%/50.3%for MC-MF/MC-FF.In the following four days, the decrease in microcapsule suspension weight corresponded to the diffusion of fragrance oil through the microcapsule shell.Th e diff usion was 0.11% for MC-MF and 0.23% for MC-FF, respectively.Th e low percentage of the release of core materials at lower temperature implies that the microcapsule shells are fairly nonporous and that the fragrance will be released by the destruction (i.e.rupture) of the shell rather than by the diff usion through the shell at room temperature.

Properties of non-printed and printed material
Th e properties of bow-tie materials are shown in Table 1.Th e results showed that satin material became stiff er when interlining was adhered to its inner side; nevertheless, a soft folding of the material into a bow-tie was still possible.Microcapsules were printed onto the batiste material (Figure 6), which was lodged to the inner side of satin-interlined composition.Aft er the printing, the batiste material became stiff er and more sensitive to creasing (higher crease recovery angle in Table 1).Since this material was integrated inside the bow-tie, creasing was not an intrusive factor, infl uencing the required soft folding of the material during the bow-tie designing.

User experience analysis
Before the wear test, the participants evaluated the material, the construction, the appearance and the fi rst impression of bow-ties (Figure 7) and the packaging (Figure 8).As it can be seen from Figure 7, the participants' fi rst impression of bow-ties was positive.Th ey were mostly impressed by the idea of integrated fragrance and they commented the whole concept.Th e material the bow-ties were made of was marked as pleasant to touch, soft and non-irritating to the skin.Ad-  ditionally, the appearance of bow-ties was rated as very attractive, mainly due to diff erent colours of the used material and printed patterns.Th e appearance of bow-ties was also recognised as elegant (especially black bow-ties), and (in the case of the bowties printed with MC-FF) suitable for gala events and also for casual occasions.Th e participants also remarked upon the design of individual bow-ties, where they commented the appearance of seams.Th e participants' responses on the packaging are presented in Figure 8. Th eir fi rst impression was that the paperboard box is stylish, likable and that it is of appropriate colour.Most of the users (80.6%) commented the functionality.Th e participants were impressed by the appearance of the box, in particular with a pull-out drawer and its textile strap holder.Although the packaging was made of paperboard, several participants (16.7%) suggested that it could be made of thicker, higher grammage material.For some participants (21.9%), the size of the box was too big (e.g. in the case of travelling).A quarter of participants (25.8%) also criticised the construction of the packaging, which was in some cases not precise enough.With the selection of fi ve out of twenty representative images of motivation groups, the participants classifi ed male and female bow-ties into diff erent motivation groups (Figure 9).Th e obtained results were compared with the recommended market price of fragranced bow-ties, which was given by the participants at the end of the test (Figure 10).Male participants attributed their fragrance bowties (MC-MF) to the alpha group, which is mainly motivated by the status in the society.Since bowties already present a status symbol, the added fragrance expectedly raised their market price to the average 34.4EUR per piece (Figure 10; regular market price for an ordinary bow-tie is approximately 20 to 30 EUR).In contrast, female participants did not allocate their bow-ties (MC-FF) to a specifi c Tekstilec, 2016, 59(3), 206-215 motivation group, but they equally distributed them into all four groups (Figure 9).Such a classifi cation was possibly a result of the fact that fi rstly the female fragrance oil (MC-FF) was more "universal", and therefore suitable for all four motivation groups (this statement was also confi rmed by female participants aft er the test) and secondly, that females generally rarely wear bow-ties, due to which this test represented a new, unfamiliar experience to them.Th e female fragranced bow-tie (MC-FF) was assigned with a slightly lower market value than the male's, i.e. 33.8 EUR per piece (Figure 10), proving that the addition of the fragrance contributes to the added value of bow-ties.Before each wear, the participants took the bow-ties out of the packaging and described the presence and intensity of the fragrance.As it can be seen from Figure 11, before each wear the female fragrance (MC-FF) was slightly less sensed as the male fragrance (MC-MF); nevertheless, in both cases, most of the users (90.9%) sensed the fragrance as very gentle.During the wear, the fragrance was again experienced by the users as gentle, pleasant and not annoying.As it can be seen in Figure 12, the percentage of users sensing the fragrance during the wear decreased aft er each wear, which implies that the bow-ties were slowly losing their fragrance (fading).

Figure 12: Sensing fragrance of bow-ties with MC-MF (above) and MC-FF (below) during wear
Th e results showed (Figure 12) that the fragrance was just slightly less sensed for the bow-ties with MC-MF compared to the bow-ties with MC-FF.Th e participants also noticed that the fragrance faded during each wear (Figure 13).Th e fading was more intense in the case of bow-ties with MC-FF (Figure 13).Microcapsules MC-MF were larger and their rupturing was easier compared to smaller MC-FF microcapsules.Th e release of the male fragrance oil was thus possibly more effi cient, yet it would probably last for a shorter period of time.In contrast, the microcapsules with female oil were smaller, more resistant to mechanical forces, hence the fragrance was released slowly in smaller quantities and for a longer period of time.

Figure 13: Fading fragrance of bow-ties with MC-MF (above) and MC-FF (below) during wear
During each wear, the participants were asked to rub their bow-tie between fi ngers if the fragrance was not sensed.By rubbing, the microcapsules with fragrance oil ruptured and the fragrance was released from the core.In Figure 14, the presence of the fragrance immediately and 10 minutes aft er the rupture of the microcapsules before the tenth test is shown.

Percentage of answers [%]
Bow-ties  As it can be seen from Figure 14, the participants sensed the released fragrance immediately aft er the rupture of microcapsules as well as aft er 10 minutes.Th e fragrance was in both cases gentle.Aft er the test, the bow-ties were collected, examined and again evaluated.Most (83.9%) bow-ties still released a gentle and discreet fragrance, which became more pronounced when the bow-ties were rubbed between fi ngers.Th e analysis showed that the prints were undamaged, although participants rubbed bow-ties quite oft en, especially since they found this function very amusing.All users (100%) liked the idea of scented bow-ties and as it was already mentioned, they were prepared to pay for them a slightly higher price.According to their responses, they would like to wear the bow-ties also with some other fragrances (93.5%) and they would like to give them away as a gift (96.8%).

Conclusion
From the results of MC-MF and MC-FF microcapsule testing, it was concluded that: shell of microcapsules was only slightly porous, but just enough to gently release during the wear the fragrance of oil from the core; fragrance faded during wear; however, the rup-turing of the shell by rubbing the bow-tie between fi ngers, enabled a prolonged release of the fragrance; discrete fragrance of bow-ties was pleasant for the participants; if the fragrance had been too strong, it would have been annoying for the participants; male participants allocated MC-MF fragrance of bow-ties to the alpha group, while the female MC-FF fragrance oil was more "universal" and consequently suitable for all four motivation groups.
Th e aim of the research was to develop/upgrade a bow-tie with added value.Th e main idea was to design a bow-tie with a "personal note", which was in the research achieved by adding a fragrance, aesthetic appearance and decorative prints.Scented bow-ties were designed with a classical production process with only slightly higher costs.

Figure 3 :
Figure 3: Representative images of motivation groups

Figure 5 :
Figure 5: Proportion of released core material through microcapsule shells aft er 5 days at 25 °C for MC-MF and MC-FF

Figure 9 :
Figure 9: Motivation group classifi cation of fragranced male and female bow-ties

Figure 10 :
Figure 10: Recommended market price of fragranced male and female bow-ties

Figure 11 :
Figure 11: Sensing fragrance of bow-ties with MC-MF (above) and MC-FF (below) aft er they were taken out of the packaging

Figure 14 :
Figure 14: Sensing released fragrance immediately and 10 minutes aft er rupture of microcapsules before tenth wear

Table 1 :
Properties of non-printed and printed textile materials with MC-MF and MC-FF microcapsules