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  • Little Diary of a German Journey
  • Max Frisch (bio)
    Translated by Linda Frazee Baker (bio)

Ive just crossed over the border, and whenever one of us whose real homeland is language first sets foot on German soil, we feel a peculiar sense of strain, nowadays almost a certain trepidation. We can’t and don’t want to deny that since our earliest years when we were first beginning to understand what life is, we have felt a grateful love for Germany, which has given us, among others, a Riemenschneider1 and a Dürer, a Goethe and a Bach—in short, our very cultural heritage and upbringing. Nor can we forget that those most characteristic and important Swiss, who refused to be subservient to German culture but instead shaped the relationship into a productive give-and-take, would certainly be unimaginable without the achievements of German intellect. [End Page 135]

So when we pass over this national border, we are already coming from a Germany of the spirit. Will we be disillusioned when we see the real Germany? Will our love for Germany be misused, misinterpreted, and disfigured into a “Longing for the Reich” so that our feelings about Germany will have to turn to indignation? And if today we don’t find that intellectual Germany whose classical language serves as our artistic model, will we then be forced to conclude that all its spirit and all that we loved about it is gone and we need to divorce ourselves from what exists now? Or can we put our trust in those silent ones who have remained in the country, a Carossa,2 for example, or whatever their names might be now?

That is the real question, whether in the end we should believe the rabble-rouser or the poet. Who should set the standard for us, the braying mob or the lone individual who, despite being powerless, makes history, at least intellectual history? It’s not mere curiosity that impels us to make this journey. For us it’s a matter of faith, of a spiritual and intellectual foundation we once took for granted but that from now on will be questionable, a foundation without which we may be unable to fully thrive and prosper. For no serious German-speaking Swiss, whether poet or some other kind of artist, can give up our neighbor Germany with a light heart, lose it in spirit, and put an end to our shared cultural identity. What I mean is that going to Germany may be less a test of the Germans, the way some very arrogant people see it who think of themselves as divine messengers who examine and punish. It is rather a test of our own intellectual attitude, our inner openness and sense of security, which may protect us from placing too much weight on the present moment.

________

I spend the first evening in the castle gardens in Stuttgart. Countless enormous plane trees tower above me, ancient treetops still bare of foliage that reach for the heavens. Spacious lawns spread out in all directions that here and there surprise you with a blooming crocus. About such solitary little flowers that seem so shy and childlike, Rilke once said: They look as if they could stand up and say Blue!

In the background you can recognize the outline of the charming old castle, still unrestored since the fire,3 just now being turned to gold by the setting sun behind a web of budding boughs. In front of my bench, swans are swimming in a dark green pond, their necks mirrored in the still water like long, straight, white candles. And over everything a thin tower rises up, rust-red in the quiet of the evening. The purging of the city government took place there for many days during the Revolution of the Second Reich.4 But the most beautiful and important thing our era has created is not a church but the train station, which, by the way, is the best train station in Germany.

Today in a Party bookstore I saw all the heads of those whose names I know only from hearsay: Hitler and Friedrich the...

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