Study on the Protection path of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Chinese Traditional Dress -- Taking Tang Dynasty Dress as an Example

: China has been known as the "big country of clothing" and "the country of silk" since ancient times, and has a very rich heritage of traditional clothing culture. But now these traditional costumes are declining. In order to promote the cultural development of traditional Chinese clothing and protect and inherit China's intangible cultural heritage, this study first takes the traditional Chinese clothing of Tang Dynasty as an example, reviews the culture and value of traditional Chinese clothing, then introduces the protection and development of intangible cultural heritage at home and abroad, and then analyzes the difficulties and necessity of the protection of traditional Chinese clothing intangible cultural heritage. Finally, combining with the reality, the protection path of traditional intangible cultural heritage is proposed to realize the protection and inheritance of Chinese traditional costume culture. This study will promote the protection of Chinese intangible cultural heritage to a certain extent.


Introduction
The traditional costume of our country is exquisitely made and the modeling design is rich, which fully demonstrates the extraordinary wisdom and excellent creativity of the Chinese nation. As a very important intangible cultural heritage, it not only carries our thousands of years of cultural deposits, but also integrates extremely strong national emotions. However, with the continuous development of the society and the changes of The Times, the aesthetic concept has gradually changed. With the rapid development of modern costume culture, Chinese traditional costume is also in decline. Intangible cultural heritage, as the cultural heritage of mankind under the protection of UNESCO convention, is the inheritance and protection of the living culture with national origin.China has a history of over 5,000 years, and its intangible cultural heritage ranks among the top in the world in terms of both quantity and quality.With the change of times, production and life style, more and more intangible cultural heritage faces the fate of being lost due to the lack of inheritors.Although the state has provided some funds for the protection of intangible cultural heritage, few people still pay attention to and inherit the intangible cultural heritage.As a part of the intangible cultural heritage, Chinese traditional costume plays and intangible cultural heritage pavilions have played a certain role in protecting the cultural inheritance of Chinese traditional costume, but they still cannot solve the crisis of the loss of Chinese traditional costume. In order to promote the cultural development of traditional Chinese clothing and protect and inherit China's intangible cultural heritage, this study first takes the traditional Chinese clothing of the Tang Dynasty as an example, reviews the culture and value of traditional Chinese clothing, then introduces the protection and development of intangible cultural heritage at home and abroad, and then analyzes the difficulties and necessity of the protection of traditional Chinese clothing intangible cultural heritage. Finally, combining with the reality, the protection path of traditional intangible cultural heritage is proposed to realize the protection and inheritance of Chinese traditional costume culture.This study will promote the protection of Chinese intangible cultural heritage to a certain extent.

The reflection of the cultural value of traditional clothing
The role of clothing is not only to cover the body and warm the body, but also to beautify the function.Almost since the origin of clothing, people have deposited their life customs, aesthetic tastes, color preferences, as well as various cultural attitudes and social concepts in clothing, and constructed the spiritual civilization connotation of clothing culture.
Sui unified the whole country and redefined the Han costume system. However, it was difficult to get rid of the influence of the northern costume system brought by the unification of north and south.The Tang Dynasty was a  time when Chinese politics and economy developed  highly, culture and art prospered and feudal culture was  brilliant.The Tang Dynasty was stable for a  In the Sui and Tang dynasties, taxi and official men generally wore crewneck robes and shirts, which could be worn from the emperor to the servants. It was the common clothing at that time.Influenced by the northern nationalities, the style was almost the same, generally for the round collar, the difference only lies in the material, color and leather head decoration.Futou is the most common type of master's first coat in Sui, Tang and Five Dynasties. It is a kind of garment style created by the fusion of Han and northern ethnic minorities. Futou would be equipped with crewneck robes and upi six-head boots, which would be free and graceful and fearless.The traditional mitre clothes were only occasionally worn on grand occasions, such as sacrificial ceremonies to heaven and earth and ancestral temples. The style of the dress mostly inherited the old Sui Dynasty system.Other futou would be the first futou futuo, which could be worn up to emperor and down to Baiguan master for ceremonies and banquets and even be used as imperial coat.However, women's wear in the Sui and Tang dynasties is full of fashion, which often developed from the curious court women's clothing to the folk and was copied one after another. It is also often influenced by the northwest ethnic groups and has a unique style. It is one of the most wonderful chapters in the history of Chinese clothing and the boldest kind of ancient Chinese women's clothing, with its graceful shape and magnificent makeup.Clothing with large sleeves, in order to show the graceful, stretch, give a person with a sense of floating if fairy......In the Sui and Tang dynasties, women's daily clothing is shirt, jacket, skirt, mostly wearing jackets, jackets, shirts, and the lower body bundle skirt.Red was the most popular skirt, followed by purple, yellow and green.Women's shoes in the Tang Dynasty were shaped like phoenixes with the toe and similar in size to men's.There are many kinds of women's daily clothing, such as jacket, blouse, robe, waist scarf, chest wipe, skirt, pants, knee pants, socks, shoes and so on.
China is a multi-ethnic country. In the long history of development, all ethnic groups have jointly created the splendid Chinese civilization and made splendid achievements in the colorful traditional Chinese clothing culture.Clothing can represent a country, a nation and show a civilization.The Chinese element represented by the warm "China red" has been the hot creation of French fashion for many years, and has become the mainstream color of Paris fashion.Westerners believe that red is the symbol of the Chinese nation, and it is widely used in clothing and accessories.Western women are also fashionable to wear Chinese collar short clothes, with low waist bell-bottom pants, striving to make themselves have the temperament of Oriental women.Up to now, the traditional Chinese dress is still a brilliant and wonderful work, attracting the world's attention.

Protection and development of intangible cultural heritage at home and abroad
France was the first country in the world to enact the protection of its historical and cultural heritage.As early as 1840, the Historic Buildings Act was promulgated, which stipulated that cultural buildings and historic buildings should not be dismantled at will. After 1943, it was further stipulated that changes to the environment within 500 meters of historical and cultural buildings should be approved by the state.Up to now, France has more than 100 laws and regulations on the protection of intangible cultural heritage, and the protection of material cultural heritage has a history of 200 years. It has specified 91 areas for the protection of historical and cultural heritage, and initiated the "Cultural Heritage Day", which has greatly promoted the protection of intangible cultural heritage in Europe.
Italy is a country with world-renowned historical sites. Its historical and cultural heritage is all over the country with a surprising number, most of which are well protected. Rome, as one of the world-renowned historical ancient capitals, is a perfect example of preserving ancient architectural structures today.Since 1997, the Italian government has held a "Culture and The inheritance of traditional clothing is a conscious behavior resulting from the survival, development and evolution of human society. It has gradually penetrated into the depths of people's ideology and become a universal social and historical law.No matter from the perspective of history or reality, the inheritance of traditional Chinese costume culture is the inevitable choice for national reproduction and survival.The necessity of protecting the intangible cultural heritage of traditional Chinese clothing is mainly reflected in the following points:

The internal demand of national economic development.
The economic base determines the superstructure.For a country, only with a sound economic strength and material foundation can it truly have the confidence and ability to protect its national cultural heritage, so as to promote the inheritance and development of national history and culture, enhance cultural confidence and enhance national pride.As an ancient civilization with a history of 5,000 years, China is known as the "Kingdom of Clothing" and has a profound accumulation of traditional clothing culture and historical deposits.Therefore, we should make full use of our own advantages in costume culture, uphold the spirit of inheritance and innovation, further promote the external dissemination of traditional Chinese costume culture, improve the international influence of national costume, and contribute to the inheritance of China's intangible cultural heritage.

The natural selection of social demand and individual demand.
After thousands of years of development and baptism, Chinese traditional costume culture still plays a vital role, with important social and individual needs.Among them, the social needs come from different costume application scenarios.For example, the traditional Chinese opera art must be presented with the help of specific opera costumes, and the traditional costumes have also become an important symbol of the opera art. Otherwise, this art form will be incomplete and unable to present its due artistic effect.For another example, ancient costume themed films and TV dramas must take traditional costume culture as the prototype to conceive costume design, and the costumes presented must also fit the characteristics of costumes under the specific background of The Times.Ethnic traditional festival performances need to wear their own iconic costumes, such as Miao costume and dazzling silver jewelry for the Miao people, long gown, boots and belt for the Mongolian people, and silleng little hat for the Uygur people.Therefore, the traditional costume culture has penetrated into every field of social and cultural life.At the same time, individual needs are also an important source of value for the inheritance of national costume culture.Take the choice of wedding dress as an example, Chinese traditional wedding dress has Xiuhe clothing, dragon and phoenix coat, etc., although the Western wedding dress is popular with the public, but Chinese wedding dress is still an indispensable element in the wedding.In short, whether it is social needs or individual needs, traditional costume cultural inheritance has become the natural choice and conscious behavior of the continuation of the nation.

Promote the promotion and development of traditional culture.
Cultural soft power is an important embodiment of a country's overall national strength and the root cause of a nation's reproduction and survival.As an ancient civilization with a long history, China contains rich and profound traditional culture, which is the precious wealth created by our ancient ancestors and an important cultural heritage left to us, and is of great significance to national development and rejuvenation.As an important part of traditional Chinese culture, traditional costumes contain rich historical and cultural heritage as well as the crystallization of ideological wisdom. They fully demonstrate the creativity and cultural accomplishment of ancient people, and become an important carrier to carry forward traditional culture.In the new era, the inheritance and protection of traditional clothing can effectively enhance Chinese people's sense of cultural identity and self-confidence, so that they begin to gradually understand the subtleties of traditional culture, so as to promote the wide spread of traditional culture.

Difficulties in the protection of intangible heritage of traditional clothing
At present, the heritage status of traditional clothing is very severe. Under the strong impact of modern culture, the audience is gradually decreasing, and there is a lack of effective protection measures and communication methods, leading to the effective use and development of some precious elements of traditional clothing, handicrafts and excellent works.Therefore, the difficulties in the protection of traditional clothing intangible cultural heritage mainly include the following points: National aesthetic personality digestion.The aesthetic style of The Times is the soil for the survival and development of costume culture and plays an important role in the characteristics of costume art and cultural inheritance.For thousands of years, the regularity of clothes has always been the basic concept of the development of Chinese clothing.Influenced by traditional ethics and ethics, traditional Chinese clothes pay attention to the "unity of nature and man" and integrate natural things into the creation of clothes. Silk, hemp and cotton are used as raw materials, clothing colors correspond to Yin and Yang and the five elements, flowers, mountains and rivers are used as clothing patterns, and wide, tall and fat clothing shapes are preferred to create a sense of elegance and flexibility.However, with the social changes, Western ideas and Western clothing culture gradually spread into China, and the simple and convenient aesthetic concept of clothing became popular among people.Although this kind of practical clothing is convenient for people's work and life, blindly promoting foreign clothing culture, weakening or even neglecting national clothing will lead to the loss of national character, the dissolution of national aesthetic personality, the gradual decline of national cultural confidence and other serious problems.Therefore, in order to get real development of Chinese traditional clothing, we must start from the cultivation of national aesthetic personality, dig deep into the national character, strengthen the self-confidence of national clothing, and revitalize people's sense of identity to the traditional clothing culture. The strong impact of modern culture.At present, China is in a period of profound social transformation and adjustment. It not only faces the need of transformation in terms of economic structure and development mode, but also the conflict and contradiction between modern and traditional ideology and culture are becoming increasingly prominent.On the one hand, traditional ideology, culture and customs still exist in people's life, standardizing and guiding people's behavior and adhering to the roots of traditional culture.On the other hand, with the vigorous development of modern culture, Internet culture, Western culture and Japanese and South Korean culture are interwoven, bringing new ideas and value cognition to people and shaking the position of traditional culture.In this case, the scope of the audience of traditional clothing is gradually narrowed, the frequency of wearing is significantly decreased, and even some groups do not know how to wear traditional clothing, but modern clothing has become a trend that people chase.Therefore, the strong impact of modern culture makes the traditional costume culture gradually ignored, the use of demand and the audience is decreasing, so that its inheritance and protection face severe challenges. The way and means of inheritance are relatively simple.Traditional Chinese clothing is not only a simple garment product, but also an important intangible cultural heritage, which has profound social significance for the inheritance of national culture and the maintenance of cultural diversity.At present, the degree of social participation in the inheritance and protection of Chinese traditional clothing is low, and the phenomenon of government-arranged cultural inheritance still exists, which has a strong administrative color and governmentrun nature, so that there are few channels for social forces to participate, insufficient willingness to participate, and unable to form an effective social participation force.At the same time, the government and civil organizations are independent and independent in the inheritance of traditional Chinese clothing, so the government can hardly learn from the excellent experience and practices of civil organizations, and cannot give play to the role of social forces such as social organizations, enterprises and scientific research institutes.In addition, in terms of communication mode, Chinese costume culture lacks effective communication channels, and the utilization of modern communication means is insufficient, which restrains its inner vitality.Therefore, it is difficult to realize the effective inheritance of Chinese traditional costume culture only by relying on the government. We must change the inheritance ideas, open up new communication paths and development channels, and stimulate the internal vitality of the inheritance of costume culture.

Protection path of traditional clothing
intangible cultural heritage In order to fully protect and inherit Chinese traditional clothing and stimulate the vitality of traditional clothing culture, we must have a deep understanding of the necessity of protecting traditional clothing intangible cultural heritage.In addition, it is also necessary to combine the cultural characteristics of different regions and the characteristics of cultural development, formulate a scientific strategy for the inheritance and protection of traditional clothing, plan specific protection measures and development paths in detail, fully mobilize the forces of different social subjects, guide them to actively participate in the protection and inheritance of traditional clothing, build a long-term development mechanism, and effectively stimulate the internal vitality of traditional clothing. Firstly, the collection and protection of traditional clothing should be strengthened.As a collection place for humanity's material and intangible cultural heritage, museums are of great practical significance for inheriting the achievements of human civilization and promoting cultural inheritance and protection.Therefore, the inheritance and protection of Chinese traditional clothing should give full play to the main force of the museum, using a variety of carriers and forms, to scientifically protect Chinese clothing culture.On the one hand, the museum should formulate a perfect protection system of traditional clothing, plan the ways and carriers of national clothing technology protection in detail, and equip professional management personnel, use modern cultural relic conservation technology, scientifically protect the achievements of traditional clothing, and prevent the traditional clothing from being damaged and damaged.On the other hand, the country should establish a digital museum of costume culture, with the help of modern science and technology to realize the static display of traditional clothing and dynamic technology demonstration, so that the public have a more threedimensional and comprehensive understanding of traditional costume culture.At the same time, information network technology is used to upload documents related to traditional clothing into the museum, providing a good channel for people to understand and study traditional clothing.
Secondly, the industrialization of traditional clothing culture should be promoted.Industrialization is the fundamental path of traditional culture inheritance and development, and also the key to realize the prosperity of traditional culture.Therefore, traditional clothing can adopt the development mode of cultural industrialization, led by enterprises and cooperated by the government, to build the development pattern of traditional clothing culture industrialization.First, traditional handicraft training schools should be established.The manufacturing process of traditional clothing is complex and varied, which requires professional learning and training to master its core.The training school of traditional clothing handicraft can introduce some excellent folk handicrafts and experts and scholars in traditional clothing, build a professional team of teachers, systematically teach traditional embroidery, weaving and dyeing techniques, explain the development process, creative ideas, elements and other contents of national clothing, and cultivate more inheritors of traditional clothing skills.Second, the development of traditional clothing cultural products.Enterprises can dig deep into the characteristics and profound heritage of traditional culture, extract the design elements with the value of The Times and market development potential, and apply them in modern clothing design, presenting both classical flavor and fashion sense of Chinese style clothing works. Finally, it can promote the development of traditional clothing through tourism.In recent years, with the continuous expansion of the domestic tourism industry, the mass tourism consumption demand has gradually upgraded, and began to pay more attention to the quality of tourism and cultural heritage, providing a good opportunity for the integration of culture and tourism.In the context of cultural and tourism integration, traditional clothing culture can be integrated into the development process of tourism, creating cultural tourism projects with cultural significance and ornamental value, planning fine routes of cultural tourism, and realizing the combination of economic benefits and social benefits.For example, ethnic song and dance performances can be held in tourist attractions to display different styles of traditional ethnic costumes;Scenic spot docents can wear different styles of traditional costumes for tourists to explain the origin and development of costumes.They can also develop some handicrafts, rent and sell traditional costumes, and provide tourists with services of trying on and taking photos.The combination of traditional clothing and tourism can not only enhance tourists' travel experience, make them deeply feel the connotation of traditional clothing culture, promote the inheritance and development of traditional clothing culture, but also promote the transformation and upgrading of tourism industry, and provide a good communication carrier for traditional clothing culture. The traditional Chinese costume culture is not only the achievement of Chinese civilization for five thousand years, but also an important intangible cultural heritage and precious wealth of human society.To promote the inheritance and development of traditional clothing, we should take protection as the premise, preserve relevant documents and original clothing as far as possible, and adhere to the principle of innovation and inheritance. We should not only cultivate a new generation of inheritors of traditional clothing, but also innovate traditional clothing design according to the characteristics of The Times, so as to keep the vitality of traditional clothing culture forever and promote its long-term development.

Conclusion
It is required to strengthen the exploration and elucidation of fine traditional Chinese culture, establish a inheritance system of traditional Chinese culture, and vigorously publicize and promote fine traditional Chinese culture. "The historical origin, development context and basic trend of fine traditional Chinese culture should be explained clearly, and the unique creation, value concept and distinctive characteristics of Chinese culture should be explained clearly."Through this study, it is hoped that in the future, we can use tradition to promote fashion and activate tradition with fashion, draw spiritual power to realize Chinese dream from excellent traditional culture, give play to culture to lead fashion, serve the contemporary society, improve cultural literacy, promote the inheritance and development of China's intangible cultural heritage, so that more traditional clothing and intangible cultural heritage can be displayed in front of people. Let more people around the world know about Chinese traditional clothing, love Chinese traditional culture, and let China's "intangible cultural heritage" go to the world.