Abstract
Traditional cheeses represent a heritage and are the result of accumulated empirical knowledge passed on from generation to generation. Pedoclimatic conditions in most parts of the East-Mediterranean and neighbouring countries are characterised by relatively small and irregular precipitations, hot and dry summers, and a largely hilly terrain. Such environmental conditions are not very favourable for cattle but suitable for sheep and goats. Thus, the majority of traditional cheeses in these countries were — and most of them still are — made from the milk of these two animals. The relatively high ambient temperature, the lack of refrigeration facilities and the fact that most of the cheeses were produced in family enterprises or in small artisanal units led the cheese market to be dominated (> 50%) by “white brined cheeses” (WBC), which are ripened and stored under brine until consumption, e.g. Feta, Domiati and Beyaz-Peynir. WBC have no rind, no gas holes and are soft to semi-hard with an acidic (pH ∼ 4.5), salty and, some of them, piquant taste. To improve keeping quality, the drained curd of some WBC is additionally scalded at very high temperatures (90–100 °C), e.g. Halloumi and Nabulsi. Traditional cheeses of the region also include pasta filata semi-hard cheeses (e.g. Kashkaval), the curd of which after draining and acidification (pH ∼ 5.2) is subjected to a texturising process (heating, kneading and stretching at ∼ 75 °C). They usually have a flat-cylindrical shape, no holes and straw-yellow to yellow colour. Whey cheese production (e.g. Myzithra, Manouri, Lor, Anari, Urda and Skuta) was developed very early in this area, since the whey from sheep’s and goat’s milk cheese is very rich in protein. The yield can be improved if the milk of these small ruminants and/or cream is added to the whey.
Abstract
(WBC) Feta, Domiati, Beyaz-Peynir (> 50%) WBC (pH ∼ 4.5) (90–100 °C) Halloumi Nabulsi pasta filata Kashkaval (pH ∼ 5.2) 75 °C Myzithra Manouri Lor Anari Urda Skuta)
Résumé
Les fromages traditionnels représentent un héritage résultant des savoirs empiriques accumulés et transmis de génération en génération. Les conditions pédoclimatiques dans la plupart des pays de l’est méditerranéen et ses voisins sont caractérisées par des précipitations relativement faibles et irrégulières, des étés chauds et secs et un terrain généralement vallonné. De telles conditions environnementales ne sont pas favorables pour les bovins mais conviennent bien aux ovins et caprins. La majorité des fromages traditionnels de ces pays ont été ou sont encore fabriqués à partir du lait de ces deux espèces. La température ambiante relativement élevée, le manque de réfrigération et le fait que la plupart des fromages sont produits dans des petites unités (familiales ou artisanales) font que le marché du fromage est dominé (> 50 %) par des fromages blancs saumurés qui sont affinés et conservés dans la saumure jusqu’ à consommation, par exemple le Feta, le Domiati, le Beyaz-Peynir. Les fromages blancs saumurés n’ont pas de croûte ni de trous, ils ont une texture molle à demi-dure, et un goût acide (pH ∼ 4,5), salé et pour certains d’entre eux piquant. Pour améliorer la qualité de conservation, le caillé égoutté de quelques fromages blancs saumurés est chauffé à des températures très élevées (90–100 °C), comme par exemple le Halloumi et le Nabulsi. Les fromages traditionnels de la région incluent aussi des fromages à pâte filée demi-dure (par exemple le Kashkaval), dont le caillé est soumis à des procédés de texturation (chauffage, découpage, filage à ∼ 75 °C) après égouttage et acidification (pH ∼ 5,2). Ils ont généralement une forme plate cylindrique, pas de trous et une couleur jaune-paille à jaune. La production de fromage de lactosérum (par exemple Myzithra, Manouri, Lor, Anari, Urda, Skuta) a été développée très tôt dans cette région, puisque le lactosérum de fromage de lait de brebis et de lait de chèvre est très riche en protéines. Le rendement peut être amélioré si du lait de ces petits ruminants et/ou de la crème sont ajoutés au lactosérum.
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Alichanidis, E., Polychroniadou, A. Characteristics of major traditional regional cheese varieties of East-Mediterranean countries: a review. Dairy Sci. Technol. 88, 495–510 (2008). https://doi.org/10.1051/dst:2008023
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DOI: https://doi.org/10.1051/dst:2008023