Abstract
Results of field experiments and simulation are used to study the hypothesis that energy dissipation from irregular breaking waves can have a nonuniform distribution over the frequency. It was found that the wave energy dissipation in the outer surf zone is practically independent of the frequency and can be approximated by a constant. A quadratic or a selective (at the frequency band of second–third harmonics) dependence of energy dissipation on frequency was found to form in the inner part of the surf zone, where it is controlled by wave asymmetry and bed slope. The dissipation of the energy of breaking waves was shown to proceed in such a way as to compensate for the effect of processes of linear or nonlinear deformation of waves.
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Kuznetsov, S.Y., Saprykina, Y.V. Frequency-Dependent Energy Dissipation of Irregular Breaking Waves. Water Resources 31, 384–392 (2004). https://doi.org/10.1023/B:WARE.0000035678.11150.1e
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DOI: https://doi.org/10.1023/B:WARE.0000035678.11150.1e