Skip to main content
SpringerLink
Log in

Swash saturation: an assessment of available models

  • Published:
Ocean Dynamics Aims and scope Submit manuscript

Abstract

An extensive previously published (Hughes et al. Mar Geol 355, 88–97, 2014) field data set representing the full range of micro-tidal beach states (reflective, intermediate and dissipative) is used to investigate swash saturation. Two models that predict the behavior of saturated swash are tested: one driven by standing waves and the other driven by bores. Despite being based on entirely different premises, they predict similar trends in the limiting (saturated) swash height with respect to dependency on frequency and beach gradient. For a given frequency and beach gradient, however, the bore-driven model predicts a larger saturated swash height by a factor 2.5. Both models broadly predict the general behavior of swash saturation evident in the data, but neither model is accurate in detail. While swash saturation in the short-wave frequency band is common on some beach types, it does not always occur across all beach types. Further work is required on wave reflection/breaking and the role of wave-wave and wave-swash interactions to determine limiting swash heights on natural beaches.

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.

Access this article

Log in via an institution

Price excludes VAT (USA)
Tax calculation will be finalised during checkout.

Instant access to the full article PDF.

Institutional subscriptions

Fig. 1
Fig. 2
Fig. 3
Fig. 4
Fig. 5
Fig. 6

Similar content being viewed by others

References

  • Aagaard T (1990) Swash oscillations on dissipative beaches—implications for beach erosion. J Coastal Res SI9:738–752

    Google Scholar 

  • Aagaard T (1991) Multiple-bar morphodynamics and its relation to low-frequency edge waves. J Coastal Res 7:801–813

    Google Scholar 

  • Baldock TE, Holmes P (1999) Simulation and prediction of swash oscillations on a steep beach. Coast Eng 36:219–242

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Baldock TE, Holmes P, Bunker S, van Weert P (1998) Cross-shore hydrodynamics within an unsaturated surf zone. Coast Eng 34:173–196

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Battjes JA, Bakkenes HJ, Janssen TT, van Dongeren AR (2004) Shoaling of sub-harmonic gravity waves. J Geophys Res 109:C02009. https://doi.org/10.1029/2003JC001863

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Carrier GF, Greenspan HP (1958) Water waves of finite amplitude on a sloping beach. J Fluid Mech 4:97–109

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Cowell PJ (1982) Breaker stages and surf structure on natural beaches. Coastal studies Unit Technical Report 82/7, Sydney, Australia

  • Erikson L, Larson M, Hanson H (2005) Prediction of swash motion and run-up including the effects of swash interaction. Coast Eng 52:285–302

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Guedes RMC, Bryan KR, Coco G (2013) Observations of wave energy fluxes and swash motions on a low-sloping, dissipative beach. J Geophys Res 118:3651–3669

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Guza RT, Bowen AJ (1976) Resonant interactions for waves breaking on a beach. Proceedings 15th International Coastal Engineering Conference, ASCE, New York, 560–579.

  • Guza RT, Thornton EB (1982) Swash oscillations on a natural beach. J Geophys Res 87:483–491

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Guza RT, Thornton E, Holman RA (1984) Swash on steep and shallow beaches. Proceedings 19th International Coastal Engineering Conference. ASCE, Houston

  • Henderson SM, Bowen AJ (2002) Observations of surf beat forcing and dissipation. J Geophys Res 107(C11):3193. https://doi.org/10.1029/2000JC000498

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Holland KT, Holman RA (1999) Wavenumber-frequency structure of infragravity swash motions. J Geophys Res 104(13):479–13488

    Google Scholar 

  • Holland KT, Puleo JA (2001) Variable swash motions associated with foreshore profile change. J Geophys Res 106:4613–4623

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Holland KT, Raubenheimer B, Guza RT, Holman RA (1995) Run-up kinematics on a natural beach. J Geophys Res 100:4985–4993

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Holman RA (1983) Edge waves and the configuration of the shoreline. In: Komar PD (ed) CRC handbook of coastal processes and erosion, CRC Press Inc, Boca Raton, Florida, pp 21–33

  • Hughes MG (1992) Application of a non-linear shallow water theory to swash following bore collapse on a sandy beach. J Coastal Res 8:562–578

    Google Scholar 

  • Hughes MG, Moseley AS (2007) Hydrokinematic regions within the swash zone. Cont Shelf Res 27:2000–2013

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Hughes MG, Aagaard T, Baldock TE, Power HE (2014) Spectral signatures for swash on reflective, intermediate and dissipative beaches. Mar Geol 355:88–97

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Huntley DA (1976) Long-period waves on a natural beach. J Geophys Res 81:6441–6450

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Huntley DA, Guza RT, Bowen AJ (1977) A universal form for shoreline run-up spectra? J Geophys Res 82:2577–2581

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Kemp PH (1975) Wave asymmetry in the nearshore zone and breaker area. In: Hails J, A Carr (ed) Nearshore sediment dynamics and sedimentation, Wiley, pp 47–65

  • Mase H (1988) Spectral characteristics of random wave run-up. Coast Eng 12:175–189

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Miche R (1944) Mouvement ondulatoires de mers en profondeur constante ou decroissante. Ann Ponts Chaussees 114:25–78

    Google Scholar 

  • Miche R (1951) Le pouvoir reflechissant des ouvrages maritimes exposes a l’action de la houle. Ann Ponts Chaussees 121:285–319

    Google Scholar 

  • Mizuguchi M, (1984) Swash on a Natural Beach. 19th Coastal Engineering Conference, ASCE, Houston, Texas.

  • Power HE, Hughes MG, Aagaard T, Baldock TE (2010) Nearshore wave height variation in unsaturated surf. J Geophys Res 115. https://doi.org/10.1029/2009JC005758

  • Raubenheimer B, Guza RT (1996) Observations and predictions of run-up. J Geophys Res 101:25,575–25,587

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Raubenheimer B, Guza RT, Elgar S, Kobayashi N (1995) Swash on a gently sloping beach. J Geophys Res 100(C5):8751–8760

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Ruessink BG, Kleinhans MG, van den Beukel PGL (1998) Observations of swash under highly dissipative conditions. J Geophys Res 103:3111–3118

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Ruggiero P, Holman RA, Beach RA (2004) Wave run-up on a high-energy dissipative beach. J Geophys Res 109:C06025. https://doi.org/10.1029/2003JC002160

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Senechal N, Coco G, Bryan KR, Holman RA (2011) Wave runup during extreme storm conditions. J Geophys Res 116:C07032. https://doi.org/10.1029/2010JC006819.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Shen MC, Meyer RE (1963) Climb of a bore on a beach—part 3. Run-up. J Fluid Mech 16:113–125

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Thomson J, Elgar S, Raubenheimer B, Herbers THC, Guza RT (2006) Tidal modulation of infragravity waves via nonlinear energy losses in the surfzone. Geophys Res Letters 33:L05601. https://doi.org/10.1029/2005GL025514

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Waddell E (1976) Swash-groundwater-beach profile interactions. In: Davis RA Jr, RL Ethington (ed), Beach and nearshore sedimentation, SEPM, pp 115–125

  • Wright LD, Short AD (1984) Morphodynamic variability of surf zones and beaches; a synthesis. Mar Geol 56:93–118

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Yeh HH, Ghazali A, Marton I (1989) Experimental study of bore run-up. J Fluid Mech 206:563–578

    Article  Google Scholar 

Download references

Acknowledgements

Two reviewers for the journal provided insightful comments that helped to improve the manuscript. Colleagues who provided valuable assistance with these experiments at various times include Andrew Aouad, Nick Cartwright, Aaron Coutts-Smith, David Hanslow, David Mitchell, Adrienne Moseley, Peter Nielsen, Tony Peric, Hannah Power, and Felicia Weir.

Funding

The Australian Research Council and the Danish Natural Sciences Research Council funded many of the experiments reported here.

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

  1. Science Division, NSW Office of Environment & Heritage, Sydney, NSW, Australia

    Michael G. Hughes

  2. School of Earth and Environmental Science, University of Wollongong, Wollongong, Australia

    Michael G. Hughes

  3. School of Civil Engineering, University of Queensland, Brisbane, QLD, Australia

    Tom E. Baldock

  4. Institute of Geosciences and Natural Resources, University of Copenhagen, Copenhagen, Denmark

    Troels Aagaard

Authors
  1. Michael G. Hughes
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

  2. Tom E. Baldock
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

  3. Troels Aagaard
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

Corresponding author

Correspondence to Michael G. Hughes.

Additional information

Responsible Editor: David R. Fuhrman

This article is part of the Topical Collection on the 8th International Conference on Coastal Dynamics, Helsingør, Denmark, 12–16 June 2017

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

About this article

Check for updates. Verify currency and authenticity via CrossMark

Cite this article

Hughes, M.G., Baldock, T.E. & Aagaard, T. Swash saturation: an assessment of available models. Ocean Dynamics 68, 911–922 (2018). https://doi.org/10.1007/s10236-018-1170-8

Download citation

  • Received:

  • Accepted:

  • Published:

  • Issue Date:

  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s10236-018-1170-8

Keywords

Search

Navigation