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Extracts and Bioactives from Microalgae (Sensu Stricto): Opportunities and Challenges for a New Generation of Cosmetics

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Microalgae Biotechnology for Food, Health and High Value Products

Abstract

The cosmetic industry, which increasingly aims to develop products that affect body appearance, prevent aging and promote skin and hair well-being, has changed over the last decades. The increased sensibility of consumers to the ethics of green economy drew the attention of this industry to microalgae as novel source of active ingredients. Microalgae, which are often improperly considered as inclusive of prokaryotic microorganisms, i.e. cyanobacteria, are eukaryotic microorganisms capable of synthesising biologically active molecules that affect human metabolism.

Many classes of beneficial compounds, including carotenoids, polyphenols, vitamins and polysaccharides, can be obtained from microalgae cultivated with sustainable and environment-friendly techniques. Microalgal extracts are already commercialised in products that claim several biological activities, such as hair growth stimulation, prevention of solar radiation damages, modulation of skin pigmentation, skin tightening and anti-aging. However, their mechanisms of action and metabolic effects are not fully understood, and the related beneficial effects are probably underestimated. This contribution aims to review the state-of-the-art cosmetic applications of microalgae with a critical discussion of the experimental methods adopted and potential perspectives.

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Abbreviations

ACTH:

adrenocorticotropic hormone

Akt:

Protein kinase B

AP-1:

Activator protein 1

ARE:

Antioxidant response elements

ATX:

Astaxanthin

BAD:

Bcl-2-associated death promoter

Bax:

Bcl-2-associated X

Bcl-2:

B-cell lymphoma 2

βC:

β-Carotene

Casp:

Caspase

CE:

Cornified envelope

COX-2:

Cyclooxygenase-2

CRH:

corticotropin-releasing hormone

CT:

Carotenoid

CTX:

Canthaxanthin

cyt-c:

Cytochrome-c

DGDG:

Digalactosyl diacylglycerol

DP:

Dermal papilla

DW:

Dry weight

ECM:

Extracellular matrix

EPA:

Eicosapentaenoic acid

SEP:

Sulphated exopolysaccharide

ERK:

Extracellular signal-regulated kinase

FB:

Fibroblast

FoxOs:

Forkhead box, class O family member proteins

FT:

Ferritin

FXT:

Fucoxanthin

GABA:

γ-Aminobutyric acid

GAG:

Glycosaminoglycan

GCL:

Glutamate-cysteine ligase

GM-CSF:

Granulocyte-macrophage colony-stimulating factor

GSR:

Glutathione-disulphide reductase

h:

Human

HA:

Hyaluronic acid

4HNE:

4-Hydroxy-2-nonenal

HO-1:

Haeme oxygenase (heat shock protein fam.)

hSE:

3D human skin equivalents

hFTS:

Human full-thickness skin

HF:

Hair follicle

IL:

Interleukin

iNOS:

Inducible nitric oxide synthase

IR:

Infrared rays

JNK:

c-Jun N-terminal kinase

KC:

Keratinocyte

Keap1:

Kelch-like ECH-associated protein 1

l-DOPA:

3,4-Dihydroxy-l-phenylalanine

LF:

Lipofuscin

MA:

Microalga

MAs:

Microalgae

MAA:

Mycosporine-like amino acid

MAPK:

Mitogen-activated protein kinase

Mcl-1:

Induced myeloid leukemia cell differentiation protein

MGDG:

Monogalactosyl diacylglycerol

MITS:

Microphthalmia-associated transcription factor

MMP:

Matrix metalloproteinase

MW:

Molecular weight

NEP:

Neprilysin or neutral endopeptidase

NF-kB:

Nuclear factor kappa-light-chain-enhancer of activated B cells

NMF:

Natural moisturising factors

Nrf2:

NF-E2 p45-related factor 2

NQO-1:

NAD(P)H dehydrogenase (quinone) 1

NT:

Neurotrophin

PKCδ:

Protein kinase C-δ type

PMA:

Phorbol myristate acetate

PUFA:

Polyunsaturated fatty acid

ROS:

Reactive oxygen species

RNS:

Reactive nitrogen species

5α-R1:

5α-reductase type-1

SAGE:

Semisynthetic glycosaminoglycan ether

SC:

Stratum corneum

SEP:

Sulphated exopolysaccharide

SOD:

Superoxide dismutase

SPR:

Small proline-rich protein

STAT3:

Signal transducer and activator of transcription 3

TGF-β:

Transforming growth factor-β

T-Iso:

Tahitian Isochrysis

TNFα:

Tumour necrosis factor-α

UCA:

Urocanic acid

UV:

Ultra violet (UVR: rays; UVA: type A; UVB: type B; UVC: type C)

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Acknowledgements

We are very grateful to Dr. Paolo Pertile (Cutech srl, Italy) for kindly granting the permission of use for some images shown in this chapter. We would also like to thank two anonymous reviewers and especially Mr. Balaji Padmanaban (SPi Global) for his contribution to the finalisation of this chapter.

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    Lorenzo Zanella

  2. School of Chemical Engineering, Zhengzhou University, Zhengzhou, China

    Md. Asraful Alam

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  1. School of Chemical Engineering, Zhengzhou University, Zhengzhou, Henan, China

    Md. Asraful Alam

  2. School of Chemical Engineering, Zhengzhou University, Zhengzhou, Henan, China

    Jing-Liang Xu

  3. Biomass Energy and R&D, Guangzhou Institute of Energy Conversation-Chinese Academy of Sciences, Guangzhou, Guangdong, China

    Zhongming Wang

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Zanella, L., Alam, M.A. (2020). Extracts and Bioactives from Microalgae (Sensu Stricto): Opportunities and Challenges for a New Generation of Cosmetics. In: Alam, M., Xu, JL., Wang, Z. (eds) Microalgae Biotechnology for Food, Health and High Value Products. Springer, Singapore. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-15-0169-2_9

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