Skip to main content

Continued Change in Geringsing Weaving in Tenganan, Bali

  • Chapter
  • First Online:
Ethnic Fashion
  • 1050 Accesses

Abstract

Traditional ethnic textiles make the world a more interesting place and a respite from the uniformity of the mass produced textiles of fast fashion. The richness of watching the continuation or revival of traditional textile production in person and the resulting use of apparel and other textile products used in daily, ritual, or ceremonial aspects of life, either sacred or profane, remind us of the beauty and importance of traditional ethnic textiles. As more tourists experience traditional textile cultures first hand, it is not surprising that there is a link between tourism and helping with the continuation of the production of ethnic textiles. The internet sale of textiles has also had a positive effect on the demand for traditional woven textiles. The current popularity of ikat patterned textiles or imitation ones, i.e., printed, is discussed. This chapter documents continued changes in weaving in the village of Tenganan Pegeringsingan in Bali, Indonesia from 1985 to 1999 and 2014. The village has a century’s old tradition of producing difficult to make geringsing double ikat textiles which requires tie-dyeing of both warp and weft yarns in both the warp and weft directions to create a pattern. Reasons for the decline and subsequent partial revival of weaving are explored.

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.

Access this chapter

Chapter
USD 29.95
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
eBook
USD 79.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as EPUB and PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
Softcover Book
USD 99.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Compact, lightweight edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info
Hardcover Book
USD 109.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Durable hardcover edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info

Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout

Purchases are for personal use only

Institutional subscriptions

References

  • Adams MK (1969) System and meaning in East Sumba textile design: a study in traditional Indonesian art. Yale University, New Haven

    Google Scholar 

  • Anon (2015) Gifts representing China’s ethnic diversity and silk road fabrics elevate D.C. Museum to Top Collector of Central Asian and Chinese Minority Textiles. https://museum.gwu.edu/gifts-representing-china%E2%80%99s-ethnic-diversity-and-silk-road-fabrics-elevate-dc-museum-top-collector. Accessed 05 Dec 2015

  • Barnes R, Kahlenberg M (eds) (2010) Five centuries of Indonesian textiles: the Mary Hunt Kahlenberg collection. Delmonico Books-Prestel, New York

    Google Scholar 

  • Bebali K (2011) Sacred cloth: meaning and usage in Balinese Hindu rituals. Indonesian Heritage Society, Jakarta

    Google Scholar 

  • Bühler A (1959) Patola influences in Southeast Asia. J Indian Text Hist 4:4–46

    Google Scholar 

  • Bühler A, Ramseyer U et al (1975/1976) Patola und geringsing: Zeremonial tucheraaus Indien und Indonesien. Austellungsfuhrer Museum fur Volkerkunde, Basel

    Google Scholar 

  • Cloth Roads Blog (2015) https://www.clothroads.com/bandhani-artisan-expands-resist-dyeing-tradition-aziz-khatri/?v=7516fd43adaa. Accessed 03 Dec 2015

  • Connors M (1996) Lao textiles and traditions. Oxford University Press, Kuala Lumpur

    Google Scholar 

  • Crippen LK (1994) Continuation and change in geringsing double ikat weaving in Tenganan, Bali. In: Proceedings, Indonesian and other Asian textiles: a common heritage. Indonesian Heritage Society, Jakarta

    Google Scholar 

  • Crippen LK (2015) Continued Change in Geringsing weaving in Tenganan, Bali. In: Proceedings of ITAA international annual meeting 2015. November 9–13. Iowa State University, University Digital Library, Ames

    Google Scholar 

  • Crippen LK, Mulready PM (1995) Textile traditions and quality-of-life concerns in Southeast Asia. In: Sirgy MJ (ed) Proceedings developments in quality-of-life studies and marketing. Williamsburg, VA, pp 100–107

    Google Scholar 

  • Crippen LK, Mulready PM (2001) Continuation and change in Tenganan Pegeringsingan Bali. In: Arthur L (ed) Undressing religion. Berg Books, London, pp 183–199

    Google Scholar 

  • Crippen LK, Mulready PM (2012) Proper dress required: protecting the sacredness of the Tenganan Pergersingan, Bali Usaba Sambah ceremony utilizing dress rules. In: Proceedings of the international tourism studies association biennial conference

    Google Scholar 

  • Crippen L, Mulready PM (2014) Spinning yarns—weaving textiles: creating authentic internet stories. In: Proceedings GAMMA global marketing conference at Singapore, July 15–18, Republic of Singapore, 2014

    Google Scholar 

  • Deatley S (2015) Patan Patola: India’s heirloom double ikats. https://www.clothroads.com/patan-patola-indias-heirloom-double-ikats/?v=7516fd43adaa. Accessed 03 Dec 2015

  • Eicher JB, Evenson SL et al (2015) The visible self: global perspectives on dress, culture, and society. Fairchild, New York

    Google Scholar 

  • Gibbon KF, Hale A (1997) Ikat: splendid silks of Central Asia: the Guido Goldman collection. Laurence King Publishing, London

    Google Scholar 

  • Gittinger M (1985) Splendid symbols: textiles and traditions. Oxford University Press, London

    Google Scholar 

  • Hamilton RW (1994) Gift of the cotton maiden: textiles of Flores and the Solor Islands. Fowler Museum of Cultural History at UCLA, Los Angeles

    Google Scholar 

  • Hamilton R (2012) Weavers stories from Island Southeast Asia. In: Fowler Museum at UCLA, Los Angeles. (CD included)

    Google Scholar 

  • Hamilton R (2014) Textiles of Timor: Island in the woven sea. In: Fowler Museum at UCLA, Los Angeles

    Google Scholar 

  • Hobart AR et al (2001) The people of Bali. Blackwell, Oxford

    Google Scholar 

  • Ludington S (2011) Central Asian style. https://www.clothroads.com/what-is-ikat-central-asian-style/?v=7516fd43adaa. Accessed 03 Dec 2015

  • Ludington S (2015) Uzbekistan ikats then and now. https://www.clothroads.com/uzbekistan-ikats-then-and-now/?v=7516fd43adaa. Accessed 03 Dec 2015

  • Maxwell R (2013) Textiles of Southeast Asia: Tradition, trade, and transformation. Tuttle, North Clarendon

    Google Scholar 

  • Murphy M (2013) Bandhani artisan expands resist-dyeing tradition: Aziz Khatri. https://www.clothroads.com/bandhani-artisan-expands-resist-dyeing-tradition-aziz-khatri/?v=7516fd43adaa. Accessed 03 Dec 2015

  • New Mexico Arts (n.d.) New Mexico fiber arts trails: a guide to rural fiber arts destinations

    Google Scholar 

  • Ock Pop Tok (2015) http://ockpoptok.com/. Accessed 05 Dec 2015

  • Padilla C (2004) The work of art: Folk artists in the 21st century. In: IFM Media, Sante Fe

    Google Scholar 

  • Peck A (ed) (2013) Interwoven globe: The worldwide textile trade, 1500–1800. Yale University, New Haven

    Google Scholar 

  • Picard M (2003) Touristifcation and Balinization in a time of reformasi. Indonesia and Malay World 31(89):108–118

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Ramseyer U (1984) Clothing ritual and society in Tenganan Pegeringsingan. Verhandlungen der Naturforschenden Gesellschaft, Basel

    Google Scholar 

  • Ramseyer U, Berger U (2009) The theatre of the universe: Ritual and art in Tenganan Pegeringsingan. Museum der Kulturen, Basel

    Google Scholar 

  • Ramseyer U, Hinz H (1977) The art and culture of Bali. Oxford University Press, Oxford

    Google Scholar 

  • TOL (2015) www.threadsoflife.com. Accessed 05 Dec 2015

Download references

Acknowledgements

Lembaga Ilmu Pengetahuan (LIPI) or Indonesian Institute of Sciences for the research permit from 1996 to 1999

Puspita Wibisono, sponsor, and Director of The Textile Museum in Jakarta, Indonesia

I. Komang Sumanta—originally from Tenganan Pergerinsingan

The weavers and villagers from Tenganan Pergerinsingan

Patricia Mulready—co-author on articles on Tenganan Pergerinsingan

Mary Kefgen—for the loan of all her books on batik and traditional textiles

Evans Allen funding for research on Sustainability of bio-materials and communities—University of Arkansas at Pine Bluff—UAPB

Will Hehemann—Photographer and Communications Specialist—UAPB School of Agriculture, Fisheries, and Human Sciences

Brad Mayhugh—Photographer and Communication Specialist—UAPB School of Agriculture, Fisheries, and Human Sciences

Jameka Cottery—Stylist for photo shoot—UAPB student in Merchandising, Textiles, & Design Program

Flavelia Stigger—Research Technologist for sample preparation for photography and formatting the references—UAPB Human Sciences Department.

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

Authors

Corresponding author

Correspondence to L. Kaye Crippen .

Editor information

Editors and Affiliations

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

Copyright information

© 2016 Springer Science+Business Media Singapore

About this chapter

Cite this chapter

Kaye Crippen, L. (2016). Continued Change in Geringsing Weaving in Tenganan, Bali. In: Gardetti, M., Muthu, S. (eds) Ethnic Fashion. Environmental Footprints and Eco-design of Products and Processes. Springer, Singapore. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-10-0765-1_7

Download citation

Publish with us

Policies and ethics