Abstract
The term “metal thread” is usually applied as collective term of every type of thin, yarn-like textile decorations (strips and wires) made of solid metal. metal-coated organic material or the combination of these with natural or man-made fibres. Metal threads have been used to decoration of textiles. predominantly to embroideries and woven fabrics, since several thousands years. We find then on ecclesiastical as well as on secular vestments, on different accessories like gloves, shoes, head dresses, or even on other objects like hangings, carpets, etc.
Access this chapter
Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout
Purchases are for personal use only
Preview
Unable to display preview. Download preview PDF.
References
Bock, F. (1884)Goldstickereien und Webereien in alter und neuer Zeit und das dazu verwandte GoldgespinnstBayerisches Gewerbemuseum in Nürnberg, Nürnberg
Hoke, E. and Pertraschek-Heim, I. (1977) Microprobe analysis of gilded silver threads from mediaeval textilesStudies in Conservation.22. 49–62.
Járó M. (1983) The technological and analytical examination of metal threads in old textiles, in:Postprints of the 4 th International Restorer Seminar.Vol. II. Veszprém, pp. 253–264.
Járó M. (1994) Múzeumi textíliákat díszítö fémfonalak anyagvizsgálata és készítéstechnikájuk meghatározása természettudományos módszerekkel (Analysis of metal threads in museum textiles and determination of their manufacturing technique with scientific methods). PhD thesis. Budapest
Járó M. (1999) A 14–20. századi európai. illetve keleti textíliákon lévó fémfonalak, illetve fémdíszítmények készités-technikájának meghatározására kidolgozott müszeres analitikai vizsgálatok továbbfejlesztése (Improvement of the scientific investigation methods elaborated for the determination of the manufacturing technique of metal threads in 14–20thcentury European and Eastern textiles) research report T 017983. OTKA, Budapest
Geijer, A. and B.Thomas. E. (1964–1965) The Vinunacium Gold Tapestry.Meddelanden Fran Lunds UniversitetsHistoriska Museum. Lund. pp. 223–236.
Skals, I. (1991) Metal thread with animal-hair core.Studies in (’onsenvation.36. 240–242.
Járó M. (1999) Metal thread catalogue. part of the research report cited in [5]
Old TestamentExodus 39,2–3 - in the present state of biblical research (as far as we know), the text describes the history and tradition of the 14–13thcentury BC.
The “youngest” textile fragment. an embroidery. on which we found gold strip wound around a silk core is dated to the 13–14th’ centuries - unpublished data of the author
Járó M., Gondar E. and Tóth A. (1993) Technical revolutions in producing gold threads used for European textile decoration, Antiquités:rationales.Mémoire2. Saint-Germain-en-Laye, 119–124. and unpublished data of the author
Járó M. (1984) The investigation of the metal embroidery threads of the Hungarian coronation mantle by scanning electron microscope and physical methods of analysis, in:Preprints of the ICO.1I Committee for Conservation. 7 th Triennial MeetingVol. 1., Copenhagen. 84.1.22–24.
Járó M. (1999) A 2. sz. szarkofágban talált fémfonal-töredékek természettudományos vizsgálata (Scientific investigation of the metal thread fragments found in the sarchophagus No. 2). in:Brigetio kincsei(Treasures of Brigetio). catalogue, Klapka György Múzeum, Komárom, pp. 29–30.
See the author’s results in: Otawsky.K.. Muhhamad Abbas Muhammad Salim(1995) Mittelalterliche Textilien I.Abegg Stiftung. Riggisberg. Kat. No. 63. and unpublished data of the author
Járó M. (2002) A magyar koronázási palást aranvfonalai (Gold threads in the Hungarian coronation mantle). in: Bardoly I. (ed.) A magyar királyok koronázó palástja (The coronation mantle of the Hungarian kings). Magyar Képek Kiadó. Budapest, pp. 55–72.
Geijer, A. (1938)Birka III. Die Textilfunde aus den Gräbern.Uppsala, 68–69.
Josephus Flavius (1stcentury AD.).4zsidók tórténete(The history of Jews), transi. by J. Révay, Budapest. 1983, p. 550.
As cited in [16]
Unpublished data of the author
Járó M. (2000) A hódoltság kori magyar úri hímzésekhez használt arany-es ezüstfonalak készítömühelyei (Manufactures of gold and silver threads used for embroidery in Hungary during the Turkish occupation), research report 98–57 1,2, Hungarian Academy of Sciences. Budapest
As cited in [20]
Járó M. (2001) Il filato metallico, in:I! piviale di Pio ILa cura di Laura Martini, Silvana Editortale, Milano, pp. 88–90.
Járó M., Tóth A. and Kiss-Bendefy M. (1994) Investigation of metal threads and metallic decorations of a 16thcentury bonnet, in: Tímár-Balázsv Á. and Eastop, D. (eds.)International Perspectives of Textile ConservationPapers from the ICOM CC Textiles Working Group Meetings. Amsterdam 13–14 October 1994 and Budapest 11–15 September 1995. Archetype Publications. London, pp.127–132. and as cited in [20]
Unpublished data of the author
As cited in [2]
Járó M., Gál T. and Tóth A. (2000) The characterization and deterioration of modern metallic threadsStudies in Conservation45, No. 2. 95–105.
As cited in [20] and [4]
As cited in [26]
See for example: Járó M., Tóth A. and Gondar E. (1990) Determination of the manufacturing technique of a 10thcentury metal thread, in:Preprints of the ICOM Committee for Conservation 9 th “ Triennial MeetingVol. I.. Dresden. pp. 299–302.: Járó M. and Tóth A.L. (1994) Mode de fabrication des fils métalliques provenant des fouilles en Hongrie. in:La conservation des textiles anciensVolume des contributions des Journées d’Études de la SFIIC. Angers. pp. 157–167. and as cited in [22]
See for example ref. [23]; Tóth A. and Járó M. (1992) Untersuchung der Goldfäden einer ungarischen Prunksatteldecke aus dem 16. Jahrhundert.Restauratorenblätter13, 65–68.: Járó M. and Tóth A. (1991) Scientific identification of European metal thread manufacturing techniques of the 17–19thcenturiesEndeavourNew Series, Vol.15., No. 4., 175–184. and the authors results of metal thread analyses in: Vajk E. (2002)Majláth ornatus a hudapesti Egyetemi templom kincsei(The Majláth-ornate. treasures of the University church in Budapest), Budapest, pp. 45–47.
Unpublished data of the author
As cited in [20]
Unpublished data of the author
Járó M. and Tóth A.L. (1994) Possibilities of reconstruction of metal coating techniques used for solid metal strips or wires in museum textiles. in.Proceedings of the 4th International Conference on Non-Destructive Testing o] Works ofArtBerlin, pp. 544–553.
Járó M. (in press) Catalogue of metal threads on mediaeval weavings in the collection of the German National Museum. in: Martins. S. and Russ. S. (eds.)Historische Textilien - Beiträge zu ihrer Er/orvchung und ErhaltungVeröffentlichungen des Instituts für Kunsttechnik und Konservierung im Germanischen Nationalmuseum, Band 6, Nürnberg
Unpublished data of the author
As cited in [35]
Unpublished data of the author
Rinuy, A. (1995) Fils d’or et d’argent des broderies ottomanes: identification de leur mode de fabrication, in:Ceviz broderies de /’Empire ottoman.catalogue d’exposition. Musée d’art et d’histoire. Geneve, pp. 13–26.
Unpublished data of the author
The author’s results of metal thread analyses in: Vajk E. (2002)Majláth ornátus a budapesti Egyetemi templom kincsei(The Majlát -ornate. treasures of the University church in Budapest), Budapest, pp. 45–47.
Unpublished data of the author
As cited in [41] and unpublished data of the author
As cited in [23]
As cited in [26]
As cited in [26]
Unpublished data of the author
As cited in [26]
As cited in [23]
Járó M. and Tóth A.L. (1994) Mode de fabrication des fils métalliques provenant des fouilles en Hongrie. in:La conservation des textiles anciens.Volume des contributions des Journées d’Études de la SFIIC, Angers, pp. 157–167.
Tóth A. and Járó M. (1992) Untersuchung der Goldfaden einer ungarischen Prunksatteldecke aus dem 16. JahrhundertRestauratorenblätter13, 65–68. and unpublished data of the author
As cited in [51]
Unpublished data of the author
Unpublished data of the author
As cited in [20]
As cited in [50]
As cited in [5] and unpublished data of the author
As cited in [50]
Unpublished data of the author
Unpublished data of the author
As cited in [26]
As cited in [39]
As cited in [50]
As cited in [26]
As cited in [50]
As cited in [26]
As cited in [20]
Unpublished data of the author and as cited in [26]
Unpublished data of the author and as cited in [35]
Unpublished data of the author
Unpublished data of the author
Unpublished data of the author
Unpublished data of the author
Unpublished data of the author
Járó M. (1997) St. Valero ornate - a ‘treasury’ of mediaeval metal threads, research report, Barcelona
Unpublished data of the author
As cited in [75] and unpublished data of the author
Unpublished data of the author
Unpublished data of the author
Unpublished data of the author
Járó M. (1998) Manufacturing technique, usually neglected, with the description of mediaeval metal threads made of metal coated organic material. Some remarks on the basis of the results of scientific examinations, in: Varoli Piazza, R. (ed.)Interdisciplinary Approach about Studies and Conservation of Medieval textilesPreprints of the Interim Meeting of the ICOM CC Textile Working Group in Palermo, Roma, pp. 141–148.
Járó M. and Gondár E.(1988) Mediaeval membrane threads used for weaving and embroidery, in: Járó M. and Költö L.(eds.) trchaeometrical Research in HungaryBudapest, pp. 255–266.
As cited in [35]
As cited in [35]
Unpublished data of the author
Unpublished data of the author and the author’s investigation results in: Giorgi. M. and Palei, G. (1997) The restoration of five gauzes from the National Oriental Museum of Art in Palazzo Brancaccio of Rome. in:SET Jubilee Conference textbookStockholm
Unpublished data of the author
Unpublished data of the author
As cited in [35]
Unpublished data of the author
Unpublished data of the author
As cited in [3] and [86]
As cited in [26]
As cited in [26]
As cited in [26]
As cited in [26]
As cited in [26]
As cited in [26]
The publications of foreign researcher dealing with the same subject, referred by us to, are given in our listed articles
As cited for example in [15], [22], [23], [41] or [86]
Járó M. and Nagy Gy. T. (2001) Experiment on computerized colour reconstruction of the corroded metal surfaces of textile ornaments with leather, paper or membrane threads in: Török K. (ed.)Conservation around the milleniumHungarian National Museum, Budapest, pp. 125–131.
Járó M. (1990) Gold Embroidery and Fabrics in Europe: XI-XIV CenturiesGold BulletinVol. 23., No. 2., 40–57.; Járó M. and Tóth A. (1991) Scientific identification of European metal thread manufactunng techniques of the 17–19U1centuriesEndeavourNew Series, Vol.15., No. 4.. 175–184. and as cited in [11]
Járó M. (1995) Manufacturing technique of gold threads and their imitations on museum textiles - chronology of the preparation of metal threads. Results of the scientific investigations in: Endrei W. (ed.)Yearbook of the Textile Museum(Budapest), 8. (Special Issue).. Textil-es Textilruházati Ipartörténeti Múzeumi Alapítvány, Budapest, pp. 31–51.
Járó M. (1997) Fémfonalak készítéstechnikájának gyors meghatározasa a textília tisztítása elött (Quick determination of the manufacturing technique of metal threads before treatment)Múzeumi Mútárgvvédeleni24/1995, Magyar Nemzeti Múzeum, pp. 91–100.
For example: Sípos E. (1994) Restoration of a sixteenth-century bonnet from St. Martin’s Church in Szombathely, in: Tímár-Balázsy Á. and Eastop. D.(eds.) International Perspectives of Textile ConservationPapers from the ICOM CC Textiles Working Group Meetings. Amsterdam 13–14 October 1994 and Budapest 11–15 September 1995, Archetype Publications. London. pp. 121–126. or as cited in [26]
Author information
Authors and Affiliations
Editor information
Editors and Affiliations
Rights and permissions
Copyright information
© 2003 Springer Science+Business Media Dordrecht
About this paper
Cite this paper
JáRó, M. (2003). Metal Threads in Historical Textiles. In: Tsoucaris, G., Lipkowski, J. (eds) Molecular and Structural Archaeology: Cosmetic and Therapeutic Chemicals. NATO ASI Series, vol 117. Springer, Dordrecht. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-94-010-0193-9_15
Download citation
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-94-010-0193-9_15
Publisher Name: Springer, Dordrecht
Print ISBN: 978-1-4020-1499-4
Online ISBN: 978-94-010-0193-9
eBook Packages: Springer Book Archive