Skip to main content
SpringerLink
Log in

Influence of Excipients on Two Elements of the Stratum Corneum Barrier: Intercellular Lipids and Epidermal Tight Junctions

  • Chapter
Book cover Percutaneous Penetration Enhancers Chemical Methods in Penetration Enhancement

Abstract

The skin is one of the most important organs in the human body due to its crucial role as an interface between the internal and external environments. Homeostasis and permeability of the skin barrier are regulated by a combination of several factors, biochemical and structural, in response to the external influences. The permeability barrier function is essentially fulfilled by the final product of epidermal differentiation – stratum corneum (SC). Efficiency of the SC barrier depends on the composition and the correct arrangement of its principal elements: (1) corneocytes linked by corneodesmosomes and (2) intercellular lipids covalently bound to the cross-linked corneocyte envelopes and organized in a multilayered extracellular matrix. Epidermal tight junctions (TJ) present in the granular layer may constitute an additional permeability barrier and play a role during the SC barrier formation. Cross-linked TJ-like structures persisting in the SC participate in the regulation of desquamation and may also influence barrier function. Most of the excipients, e.g., solvents, emulsifiers/detergents, moisturizers, and penetration enhancers, interact with the skin barrier. The latter are designed to modify the intercellular SC domains in order to reduce resistance of barrier lipid bilayers. Several mechanisms of action are individualized (extraction, fluidization, or disorganization of the intercellular lipid matrix) and may intervene separately, depending on the nature of the excipient, although combined actions are most frequently encountered. Excipients can also interact with the extracellular loops or the membrane domain of TJ, causing internalization of the TJ strands and loss of the additional TJ barrier. In the longer term, this effect may also impact the SC formation and function.

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.

Access this chapter

Log in via an institution
Chapter
USD 29.95
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
eBook
USD 89.00
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as EPUB and PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
Softcover Book
USD 119.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Compact, lightweight edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info
Hardcover Book
USD 169.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Durable hardcover edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info

Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout

Purchases are for personal use only

Institutional subscriptions

References

  • Abdayem R, Callejon S, Jannin V, Portes P, Padois K, Pirot F et al (2011) Modulation of the epidermal tight junctions with the self -emulsifying excipient labrasol. J Invest Dermatol 131(10):2146

    Google Scholar 

  • Atrux-Tallau N, Romagny C, Padois K, Denis A, Haftek M, Falson F et al (2010) Effects of glycerol on human skin damaged by acute sodium lauryl sulphate treatment. Arch Dermatol Res 302(6):435–441. doi:10.1007/s00403-009-1021-z

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Barry BW (1991) Lipid-protein-partitioning theory of skin penetration enhancement. J Control Release 15(3):237–248. doi:10.1016/0168-3659(91)90115-T

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Behne M, Uchida Y, Seki T, de Montellano PO, Elias PM, Holleran WM (2000) Omega-hydroxyceramides are required for corneocyte lipid envelope (CLE) formation and normal epidermal permeability barrier function. J Invest Dermatol 114(1):185–192. doi:10.1046/j.1523-1747.2000.00846.x

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Bommannan D, Potts RO, Guy RH (1990) Examination of stratum-corneum barrier function in-vivo by infrared-spectroscopy. J Invest Dermatol 95(4):403–408. doi:10.1111/1523-1747.Ep12555503

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Boncheva M, Damien F, Normand V (2008) Molecular organization of the lipid matrix in intact stratum corneum using ATR-FTIR spectroscopy. BBA Biomembranes 1778(5):1344–1355. doi:10.1016/j.bbamem.2008.01.022

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Bouwstra JA, Ponec M (2006) The skin barrier in healthy and diseased state. BBA Biomembranes 1758(12):2080–2095. doi:10.1016/j.bbamem.2006.06.021

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Bouwstra JA, Gooris GS, Vanderspek JA, Bras W (1991) Structural investigations of human stratum-corneum by small-angle x-ray-scattering. J Invest Dermatol 97(6):1005–1012. doi:10.1111/1523-1747.Ep12492217

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Bouwstra JA, Gooris GS, Dubbelaar FER, Weerheim AM, Ponec M (1998) pH, cholesterol sulfate, and fatty acids affect the stratum corneum lipid organization. J Investig Dermatol Symp Proc 3(2):69–74

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Bouwstra JA, Gooris GS, Dubbelaar FER, Ponec M (1999) Cholesterol sulfate and calcium affect stratum corneum lipid organization over a wide temperature range. J Lipid Res 40(12):2303–2312

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Bouwstra JA, Gooris GS, Dubbelaar FER, Ponec M (2002) Phase behavior of stratum corneum lipid mixtures based on human ceramides: the role of natural and synthetic ceramide 1. J Invest Dermatol 118(4):606–617. doi:10.1046/j.1523-1747.2002.01706.x

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Branco N, Lee I, Zhai H, Maibach HI (2005) Long-term repetitive sodium lauryl sulfate-induced irritation of the skin: an in vivo study. Contact Dermatitis 53(5):278–284

    Google Scholar 

  • Brandner JM, Kief S, Grund C, Rendl M, Houdek P, Kuhn C et al (2002) Organization and formation of the tight junction system in human epidermis and cultured keratinocytes. Eur J Cell Biol 81(5):253–263. doi:10.1078/0171-9335-00244

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Brandner JM, Haftek M, Niessen CM (2010) Adherens junctions, desmosomes and tight junctions in epidermal barrier function. Open Dermatol 4:7

    Google Scholar 

  • Buraczewska I, Berne B, Lindberg M, Torma H, Lodén M (2007) Changes in skin barrier function following long-term treatment with moisturizers, a randomized controlled trial. Br J Dermatol 156(3):492–498

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Caussin J, Gooris GS, Groenink HW, Wiechers JW, Bouwstra JA (2007) Interaction of lipophilic moisturizers on stratum corneum lipid domains in vitro and in vivo. Skin Pharmacol Physiol 20(4):175–186. doi:10.1159/000101387

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Chamlin SL, Kao J, Frieden IJ, Sheu MY, Fowler AJ, Fluhr JW et al (2002) Ceramide-dominant barrier repair lipids alleviate childhood atopic dermatitis: changes in barrier function provide a sensitive indicator of disease activity. J Am Acad Dermatol 47(2):198–208. doi:10.1067/mjd.2002.124617

    PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Chen GS, Kim DD, Chien YW (1995) Dual-controlled transdermal delivery of levonorgestrel and estradiol – enhanced permeation and modulated delivery. J Control Release 34(2):129–143. doi:10.1016/0168-3659(95)00005-S

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Chin JH, Goldstein DB (1977) Effects of low concentrations of ethanol on fluidity of spin-labeled erythrocyte and brain membranes. Mol Pharmacol 13(3):435–441

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Coderch L, Lopez O, de la Maza A, Parra JL (2003) Ceramides and skin function. Am J Clin Dermatol 4(2):107–129. doi:10.2165/00128071-200304020-00004

  • Corbe E, Laugel C, Yagoubi N, Baillet A (2007) Role of ceramide structure and its microenvironment on the conformational order of model stratum corneum lipids mixtures: an approach by FTIR spectroscopy. Chem Phys Lipids 146(2):67–75. doi:10.1016/j.chemphyslip.2006.12.010

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Corcuff P, Fiat F, Minondo AM, Lévêque JL, Rougier A (2002) A comparative ultrastructural study of hydroxyacids induced desquamation. Eur J Dermatol 12(4):xxxix–xliii

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Costa-Balogh FO, Wennerstrom H, Wadso L, Sparr E (2006) How small polar molecules protect membrane systems against osmotic stress: the urea-water-phospholipid system. J Phys Chem B 110(47):23845–23852. doi:10.1021/Jp0632440

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Damien F, Boncheva M (2010) The extent of orthorhombic lipid phases in the stratum corneum determines the barrier efficiency of human skin in vivo. J Invest Dermatol 130(2):611–614. doi:10.1038/Jid.2009.272

  • De Boer DJ, Hillier A (2001) The ACVD task force on canine atopic dermatitis (XV): fundamental concepts in clinical diagnosis. Vet Immunol Immunopathol 81(3–4):271–276. doi:10.1016/S0165-2427(01)00312-9

    Google Scholar 

  • De Jager MW, Gooris GS, Dolbnya IP, Ponec M, Bouwstra JA (2004) Modelling the stratum corneum lipid organisation with synthetic lipid mixtures: the importance of synthetic ceramide composition. BBA Biomembranes 1664(2):132–140. doi:10.1016/j.bbamem.2004.05.001

    PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • De Jager MW, Groenink HW, Guivernau RBI, Andersson E, Angelova N, Ponec M et al (2006) A novel in vitro percutaneous penetration model: evaluation of barrier properties with P-aminobenzoic acid and two of its derivatives. Pharm Res 23(5):951–960. doi:10.1007/s11095-006-9909-1

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • De Paepe K, Derde MP, Roseeuw D, Rogiers V (2000) Incorporation of ceramide 3B in dermatocosmetic emulsions: effect on the transepidermal water loss of sodium lauryl sulphate-damaged skin. J Eur Acad Dermatol. 14(4):272–279. doi:10.1046/j.1468-3083.2000.00103.x

  • Di Nardo A, Wertz PW, Giannetti A, Seidenari S (1998) Ceramide and cholesterol composition of the skin of patients with atopic dermatitis. Acta Derm Venereol 78(1):27–30

    PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Ding L, Zhang Y, Tatum R, Chen YH (2011) Detection of tight junction barrier function in vivo by biotin. Methods Mol Biol 762:91–100. doi:10.1007/978-1-61779-185-7_7

    PubMed Central  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Elfbaum SG, Laden K (1968) Effect of dimethyl sulfoxide on percutaneous absorption – a mechanistic study I. J Soc Cosmet Chem 19(2):119–127

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Elias PM (1983) Epidermal lipids, barrier function, and desquamation. J Invest Dermatol 80:S44–S49. doi:10.1111/1523-1747.Ep12537108

    Google Scholar 

  • Elias PM, Friend DS (1975) The permeability barrier in mammalian epidermis. J Cell Biol 65(1):180–191

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Embery G, Dugard PH (1971) Isolation of dimethyl sulfoxide soluble components from human epidermal preparations – possible mechanism of action of dimethyl sulfoxide in effecting percutaneous migration phenomena. J Invest Dermatol 57(5):308–311. doi:10.1111/1523-1747.Ep12292362

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Feingold KR (2009) The outer frontier: the importance of lipid metabolism in the skin. J Lipid Res 50:S417–S422. doi:10.1194/jlr.R800039-JLR200

    PubMed Central  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Fluhr JW, Darlenski R, Surber C (2008) Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions. Br J Dermatol 159(1):23–34

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Froebe CL, Simion FA, Ohlmeyer H, Rhein LD, Mattai J, Cagan RH et al (1990) Prevention of stratum-corneum lipid phase-transitions in vitro by glycerol – an alternative mechanism for skin moisturization. J Soc Cosmet Chem 41(1):51–65

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Furuse M, Hata M, Furuse K, Yoshida Y, Haratake A, Sugitani Y et al (2002) Claudin-based tight junctions are crucial for the mammalian epidermal barrier: a lesson from claudin-1-deficient mice. J Cell Biol 156(6):1099–1111. doi:10.1083/jcb.200110122jcb.200110122

    PubMed Central  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Gao S, Singh J (1997) Mechanism of transdermal transport of 5-fluorouracil by terpenes: carvone, 1,8-cineole and thymol. Int J Pharm 154(1):67–77. doi:10.1016/S0378-5173(97)00123-3

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Ghadially R, Halkier-Sorensen L, Elias PM (1992) Effects of petrolatum on stratum corneum structure and function. J Am Acad Dermatol 26:387–396

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Gloor M, Wasik B, Gehring W, Grieshaber R, Kleesz P, Fluhr JW (2004) Cleansing, dehydrating, barrier-damaging and irritating hyperaemising effect of four detergent brands: comparative studies using standardised washing models. Skin Res Technol 10(1):1–9. doi:10.1111/j.1600-0846.2004.00045.x

    PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Groen D, Poole DS, Gooris GS, Bouwstra JA (2011) Is an orthorhombic lateral packing and a proper lamellar organization important for the skin barrier function? BBA Biomembranes 1808(6):1529–1537. doi:10.1016/j.bbamem.2010.10.015

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Grubauer G, Feingold KR, Elias PM (1987) Relationship of epidermal lipogenesis to cutaneous barrier function. J Lipid Res 28(6):746–752

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Haftek M, Teillon MH, Martini MC, Chambin O, Schmitt D (1996) Structural and biochemical evaluation of the epidermal barrier in ex-vivo permeabilized human skin. In: Brain KR, James VJ, Walters KA (eds) Prediction of percutaneous penetration, vol 4b. STS Publishing Ltd, Cardiff, pp 311–314

    Google Scholar 

  • Haftek M, Teillon MH, Schmitt D (1998) Stratum corneum, corneodesmosomes and ex vivo percutaneous penetration. Microsc Res Tech 43(3):242–249. doi:10.1002/(SICI)1097029(19981101)43:3<242::AID-JEMT6>3.0.CO;2-G

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Haftek M, Simon M, Serre G (2006) Corneodesmosomes : pivotal actors in the stratum corneum cohesion and desquamation. In: Elias PM, Feingold KR (eds) Skin barrier. Taylor & Francis, New York, pp 171–190

    Google Scholar 

  • Haftek M, Callejon S, Sandjeu Y, Padois K, Falson F, Pirot F et al (2011) Compartmentalization of the human stratum corneum by persistent tight junction-like structures. Exp Dermatol 20(8):617–621. doi:10.1111/j.1600-0625.2011.01315.x

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Hashimoto K (1971) Intercellular spaces of the human epidermis as demonstrated with lanthanum. J Invest Dermatol 57(1):17–31

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Heinemann C, Paschold C, Fluhr JW, Wigger-Alberti W, Schliemann-Willers S, Farwanah H et al (2005) Induction of a hardening phenomenon by repeated application of SLS: analysis of lipid changes in the stratum corneum. Acta Derm Venereol 85(4):290–295. doi:10.1080/00015550410026362

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Holleran WM, Takagi Y, Uchida Y (2006) Epidermal sphingolipids: metabolism, function, and roles in skin disorders. FEBS Lett 580(23):5456–5466. doi:10.1016/j.febslet.2006.08.039

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Hoogstraate AJ, Verhoef J, Brussee J, Ijzerman AP, Spies F, Bodde HE (1991) Kinetics, ultrastructural aspects and molecular modeling of transdermal peptide flux enhancement by n-alkylazacycloheptanones. Int J Pharm 76(1–2):37–47. doi:10.1016/0378-5173(91)90341-K

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Igawa S, Kishibe M, Murakami M, Honma M, Takahashi H, Iizuka H et al (2011) Tight junctions in the stratum corneum explain spatial differences in corneodesmosome degradation. Exp Dermatol 20(1):53–57. doi:10.1111/j.1600-0625.2010.01170.x

    PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Ishida-Yamamoto A, Simon M, Kishibe M, Miyauchi Y, Takahashi H, Yoshida S et al (2004) Epidermal lamellar granules transport different cargoes as distinct aggregates. J Invest Dermatol 122(5):1137–1144. doi:10.1111/j.0022-202X.2004.22515.x

    PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Janssens M, van Smeden J, Gooris GS, Bras W, Portale G, Caspers PJ et al (2012) Increase in short-chain ceramides correlates with an altered lipid organization and decreased barrier function in atopic eczema patients. J Lipid Res 53(12):2755–2766. doi:10.1194/Jlr.P030338

    PubMed Central  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Jiang SJ, Zhou XJ, Sun GQ, Zhang Y (2003) Morphological alterations of the stratum corneum lipids induced by sodium lauryl sulfate treatment in hairless mice. J Dermatol Sci 32(3):243–246. doi:10.1016/S0923-1811(03)00134-8

    PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Johnson PH, Frank D, Costantino HR (2008) Discovery of tight junction modulators: significance for drug development and delivery. Drug Discov Today 13(5–6):261–267. doi:10.1016/j.drudis.2007.10.023

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Kang L, Ho PC, Chan SY (2006) Interactions between a skin penetration enhancer and the main components of human stratum corneum lipids – isothermal titration calorimetry study. J Therm Anal Calorim 83(1):27–30. doi:10.1007/s10973-005-7050-8

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Kirschner N, Haftek M, Niessen CM, Behne MJ, Furuse M, Moll I, Brandner JM (2010a) CD44 regulates tight junction assembly and barrier function. J Invest Dermatol 131:932–943. doi:10.1038/jid.2010.390

    PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Kirschner N, Houdek P, Fromm M, Moll I, Brandner JM (2010b) Tight junctions form a barrier in human epidermis. Eur J Cell Biol 89(11):839–842. doi:10.1016/j.ejcb.2010.07.010

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Kirschner N, Rosenthal R, Furuse M, Moll I, Fromm M, Brandner JM (2013) Contribution of tight junction proteins to ion, macromolecule, and water barrier in keratinocytes. J Invest Dermatol 133(5):1161–1169. doi:10.1038/jid.2012.507jid2012507

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Kondoh M, Yagi K (2007) Tight junction modulators: promising candidates for drug delivery. Curr Med Chem 14(23):2482–2488

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Kondoh M, Yoshida T, Kakutani H, Yagi K (2008) Targeting tight junction proteins-significance for drug development. Drug Discov Today 13(3–4):180–186. doi:10.1016/j.drudis.2007.11.005

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Koyama Y, Bando H, Yamashita F, Takakura Y, Sezaki H, Hashida M (1994) Comparative-analysis of percutaneous-absorption enhancement by D-Limonene and Oleic-acid based on a skin diffusion-model. Pharm Res 11(3):377–383. doi:10.1023/A:1018904802566

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Krishnaiah YSR, Bhaskar P, Satyanarayana V (2004) Penetration-enhancing effect of ethanol-water solvent system and ethanolic solution of carvone on transdermal permeability of nimodipine from HPMC gel across rat abdominal skin. Pharm Dev Technol 9(1):63–74. doi:10.1081/Pdt-120027419

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Kubo A, Nagao K, Yokouchi M, Sasaki H, Amagai M (2009) External antigen uptake by Langerhans cells with reorganization of epidermal tight junction barriers. J Exp Med 206(13):2937–2946

    PubMed Central  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Kurasawa M, Kuroda S, Kida N, Murata M, Oba A, Yamamoto T et al (2009) Regulation of tight junction permeability by sodium caprate in human keratinocytes and reconstructed epidermis. Biochem Biophys Res Commun 381(2):171–175. doi:10.1016/j.bbrc.2009.02.005

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Kuriharabergstrom T, Knutson K, Denoble LJ, Goates CY (1990) Percutaneous-absorption enhancement of an ionic molecule by ethanol water-systems in human skin. Pharm Res 7(7):762–766

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Kwak S, Brief E, Langlais D, Kitson N, Lafleur M, Thewalt J (2012) Ethanol perturbs lipid organization in models of stratum corneum membranes: An investigation combining differential scanning calorimetry, infrared and H-2 NMR spectroscopy. BBA Biomembranes 1818(5):1410–1419. doi:10.1016/j.bbamem.2012.02.013

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Langbein L, Pape UF, Grund C, Kuhn C, Praetzel S, Moll I et al (2003) Tight junction-related structures in the absence of a lumen: occludin, claudins and tight junction plaque proteins in densely packed cell formations of stratified epithelia and squamous cell carcinomas. Eur J Cell Biol 82(8):385–400. doi:10.1078/0171-9335-00330

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Larrucea E, Arellano A, Santoyo S, Ygartua P (2001) Combined effect of oleic acid and propylene glycol on the percutaneous penetration of tenoxicam and its retention in the skin. Eur J Pharm Biopharm 52(2):113–119. doi:10.1016/S0939-6411(01)00158-8

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Lashmar UT, Hadgraft J, Thomas N (1989) Topical application of penetration enhancers to the skin of nude mice: a histopathological study. J Pharm Pharmacol 41:118–121

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Lawson EE, Anigbogu ANC, Williams AC, Barry BW, Edwards HGM (1998) Thermally induced molecular disorder in human stratum corneum lipids compared with a model phospholipid system: FT-Raman spectroscopy. Spectrochim Acta A 54(3):543–558. doi:10.1016/S1386-1425(97)00268-0

    Google Scholar 

  • Levang AK, Zhao K, Singh J (1999) Effect of ethanol propylene glycol on the in vitro percutaneous absorption of aspirin, biophysical changes and macroscopic barrier properties of the skin. Int J Pharm 181(2):255–263

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Lévêque JL, Derigal J, Saintleger D, Billy D (1993) How does sodium lauryl sulfate alter the skin barrier function in man – a multiparametric approach. Skin Pharmacol 6(2):111–115. doi:10.1159/000211095

    PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Lodén M (2003) Role of topical emollients and moisturizers in the treatment of dry skin barrier disorders. Am J Clin Dermatol 4(11):771–788

    PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Lodén M (2012) Effect of moisturizers on epidermal barrier function. Clin Dermatol 30(3):286–296. doi:10.1016/j.clindermatol.2011.08.015

    PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Lodén M, Bárány E (2000) Skin-identical lipids versus petrolatum in the treatment of tape-stripped and detergent-perturbed human skin. Acta Derm Venereol 80(6):412–415

    PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Madison KC, Swartzendruber DC, Wertz PW, Downing DT (1987) Presence of intact intercellular lipid lamellae in the upper layers of the stratum-corneum. J Invest Dermatol 88(6):714–718. doi:10.1111/1523-1747

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Manabe E, Sugibayashi K, Morimoto Y (1996) Analysis of skin penetration enhancing effect of drugs by ethanol-water mixed systems with hydrodynamic pore theory. Int J Pharm 129(1–2):211–221. doi:10.1016/0378-5173(95)04328-4

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Mao-Qiang M, Feingold KR, Elias PM (1993) Exogenous lipids influence permeability barrier recovery in acetone-treated murine Skin. Arch Dermatol 129(6):728–738. doi:10.1001/archderm.129.6.728

  • Mao-Qiang M, Brown BE, Wu-Pong S, Feingold KR, Elias PM (1995) Exogenous nonphysiologic vs physiologic lipids. Divergent mechanisms for correction of permeability barrier dysfunction. Arch Dermatol 131(7):809–816

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Mao-Qiang M, Feingold KR, Thornfeldt CR, Elias PM (1996) Optimization of physiological lipid mixtures for barrier repair. J Invest Dermatol 106(5):1096–1101. doi:10.1111/1523-1747.Ep12340135

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Masukawa Y, Narita H, Sato H, Naoe A, Kondo N, Sugai Y et al (2009) Comprehensive quantification of ceramide species in human stratum corneum. J Lipid Res 50(8):1708–1719. doi:10.1194/jlr.M800014-JLR200

    PubMed Central  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Mattai J, Froebe CL, Rhein LD, Simion FA, Ohlmeyer H, Su DT et al (1993) Prevention of model stratum-corneum lipid phase-transitions in vitro by cosmetic additives – differential scanning calorimetry, optical microscopy, and water evaporation studies. J Soc Cosmet Chem 44(2):89–100

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Menon GK, Elias PM (1997) Morphologic basis for a pore-pathway in mammalian stratum corneum. Skin Pharmacol 10(5–6):235–246

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Moore DJ, Rerek ME, Mendelsohn R (1997) FTIR spectroscopy studies of the conformational order and phase behavior of ceramides. J Phys Chem B 101(44):8933–8940. doi:10.1021/Jp9718109

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Morita K, Sasaki H, Furuse M, Tsukita S (1999) Endothelial claudin: Claudin-5/TMVCF constitutes tight junction strands in endothelial cells. J Cell Biol 147(1):185–194. doi:10.1083/jcb.147.1.185

    PubMed Central  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Na JI, Hwang JS, Park HJ, Kim DH, Park WS, Youn SW et al (2010) A new moisturizer containing physiologic lipid granules alleviates atopic dermatitis. J Dermatol Treat 21(1):23–27. doi:10.3109/09546630903085336

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Naik A, Pechtold LARM, Potts RO, Guy RH (1995) Mechanism of oleic acid-induced skin penetration enhancement in vivo in humans. J Control Release 37(3):299–306. doi:10.1016/0168-3659(95)00088-7

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Neto DD, Gooris GS, Bouwstra JA (2011) Effect of the omega-acylceramides on the lipid organization of stratum corneum model membranes evaluated by X-ray diffraction and FTIR studies (Part I). Chem Phys Lipids 164(3):184–195. doi:10.1016/j.chemphyslip.2010.12.007

    Google Scholar 

  • Niessen CM (2007) Tight junctions/adherens junctions: basic structure and function. J Invest Dermatol 127(11):2525–2532. doi:10.1038/sj.jid.5700865

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Obata Y, Maruyama Y, Takayama K (2006) The mode of promoting activity of O-Ethylmenthol as a transdermal absorption enhancer. Pharm Res 23(2):392–400. doi:10.1007/s11095-005-9257-6

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Ongpipattanakul B, Francoeur ML, Potts RO (1994) Polymorphism in stratum-corneum lipids. BBA Biomembranes 1190(1):115–122. doi:10.1016/0005-2736(94)90040-X

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Panchagnula R, Salve PS, Thomas NS, Jain AK, Ramarao P (2001) Transdermal delivery of naloxone: effect of water, propylene glycol, ethanol and their binary combinations on permeation through rat skin. Int J Pharm 219(1–2):95–105. doi:10.1016/S0378-5173(01)00634-2

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Pensack RD, Michniak BB, Moore DJ, Mendelsohn R (2006) Infrared kinetic/structural studies of barrier reformation in intact stratum corneum following thermal perturbation. Appl Spectrosc 60(12):1399–1404. doi:10.1366/000370206779321445

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Pilgram GSK, Vissers DCJ, van der Meulen H, Pavel S, Lavrijsen SPM, Bouwstra JA et al (2001a) Aberrant lipid organization in stratum corneum of patients with atopic dermatitis and lamellar ichthyosis. J Invest Dermatol 117(3):710–717. doi:10.1046/j.0022-202x.2001.01455.x

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Pilgram GSK, van der Meulen J, Gooris GS, Koerten HK, Bouwstra JA (2001b) The influence of two azones and sebaceous lipids on the lateral organization of lipids isolated from human stratum corneum. BBA Biomembranes 1511(2):244–254. doi:10.1016/S0005-2736(01)00271-1

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Pinnagoda J, Tupker RA, Agner T, Serup J (1990) Guidelines for transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurement. A report from the Standardization Group of the European Society of Contact Dermatitis. Contact Dermatitis 22(3):164–178

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Ponec M, Boelsma E, Weerheim AM, Mulder A, Bouwstra JA, Mommaas M (2000) Lipid and ultrastructural characterization of reconstructed skin models. Int J Pharm 203(1–2):211–225. doi:10.1016/S0378-5173(00)00459-2

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Popa I, Remoue N, Hoang LT, Pin D, Gatto H, Haftek M et al (2011) Atopic dermatitis in dogs is associated with a high heterogeneity in the distribution of protein-bound lipids within the stratum corneum. Arch Dermatol Res 303(6):433–440. doi:10.1007/s00403-011-1120-5

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Popa I, Remoue N, Osta B, Pin D, Gatto H, Haftek M et al (2012) The lipid alterations in the stratum corneum of dogs with atopic dermatitis are alleviated by topical application of a sphingolipid-containing emulsion. Clin Exp Dermatol 37(6):665–671. doi:10.1111/j.1365-2230.2011.04313.x

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Pummi K, Malminen M, Aho H, Karvonen SL, Peltonen J, Peltonen S (2001) Epidermal tight junctions: ZO-1 and occludin are expressed in mature, developing, and affected skin and in vitro differentiating keratinocytes. J Invest Dermatol 117(5):1050–1058. doi:10.1046/j.0022-202x.2001.01493.x

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Rawlings AV, Scott IR, Harding CR, Bowser PA (1994) Stratum-corneum moisturization at the molecular-level. J Invest Dermatol 103(5):731–740. doi:10.1007/s004030050067

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Rawlings AV, Harding CR, Watkinson A, Banks J, Ackerman C, Sabin R (1995) The effect of glycerol and humidity on desmosome degradation in stratum corneum. Arch Dermatol Res 287(5):457–464. doi:10.1007/Bf00373429

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Ribaud C, Garson JC, Doucet J, Lévêque JL (1994) Organization of stratum-corneum lipids in relation to permeability – influence of sodium lauryl sulfate and preheating. Pharm Res 11(10):1414–1418. doi:10.1023/A:1018987721531

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Rissmann R, Oudshoorn MH, Kocks E, Hennink WE, Ponec M, Bouwstra JA (2008) Lanolin-derived lipid mixtures mimic closely the lipid composition and organization of vernix caseosa lipids. Biochim Biophys Acta 1778(10):2350–2360. doi:10.1016/j.bbamem.2008.06.017

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Saad P, Flach CR, Walters RM, Mendelsohn R (2012) Infrared spectroscopic studies of sodium dodecyl sulphate permeation and interaction with stratum corneum lipids in skin. Int J Cosmet Sci 34(1):36–43. doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00678.x

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Schluter H, Wepf R, Moll I, Franke WW (2004) Sealing the live part of the skin: the integrated meshwork of desmosomes, tight junctions and curvilinear ridge structures in the cells of the uppermost granular layer of the human epidermis. Eur J Cell Biol 83(11–12):655–665. doi:10.1078/0171-9335-00434

    PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Sonoda N, Furuse M, Sasaki H, Yonemura S, Katahira J, Horiguchi Y et al (1999) Clostridium perfringens enterotoxin fragment removes specific claudins from tight junction strands: Evidence for direct involvement of claudins in tight junction barrier. J Cell Biol 147(1):195–204

    PubMed Central  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Swartzendruber DC, Burnett IH, Wertz PW, Madison KC, Squier CA (1995) Osmium tetroxide and ruthenium tetroxide are complementary reagents for the preparation of epidermal samples for transmission electron microscopy. J Invest Dermatol 104(3):417–420. doi:10.1111/1523-1747.ep12665909

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Tfayli A, Guillard E, Manfait M, Baillet-Guffroy A (2010) Thermal dependence of Raman descriptors of ceramides. Part I: effect of double bonds in hydrocarbon chains. Anal Bioanal Chem 397(3):1281–1296. doi:10.1007/s00216-010-3614-y

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Tfayli A, Guillard E, Manfait M, Baillet-Guffroy A (2012) Molecular interactions of penetration enhancers within ceramides organization: a Raman spectroscopy approach. Analyst 137(21):5002–5010. doi:10.1039/C2an35220f

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Thau P (2002) Glycerin (glycerol): current insights into the functional properties of a classic cosmetic raw material. J Cosmet Sci 53(4):229–236

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Torma H, Berne B (2009) Sodium lauryl sulphate alters the mRNA expression of lipid-metabolizing enzymes and PPAR signaling in normal human skin in vivo. Exp Dermatol 18(12):1010–1015. doi:10.1111/j.1600-0625.2009.00877.x

    PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Tsukita S, Furuse M (2000) Pores in the wall: claudins constitute tight junction strands containing aqueous pores. J Cell Biol 149(1):13–16. doi:10.1083/Jcb.149.1.13

    PubMed Central  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Vaddi HK, Ho PC, Chan SY (2002) Terpenes in propylene glycol as skin-penetration enhancers: permeation and partition of haloperidol, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, and differential scanning calorimetry. J Pharm Sci 91(7):1639–1651

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Van Hal DA, Jeremiasse E, Junginger HE, Spies F, Bouwstra JA (1996) Structure of fully hydrated human stratum corneum: a freeze-fracture electron microscopy study. J Invest Dermatol 106(1):89–95. doi:10.1111/1523-1747.ep12328031

    PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Van Smeden J, Hoppel L, van der Heijden R, Hankemeier T, Vreeken RJ, Bouwstra JA (2011) LC/MS analysis of stratum corneum lipids: ceramide profiling and discovery. J Lipid Res 52(6):1211–1221. doi:10.1194/Jlr.M014456

    PubMed Central  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Verdier-Sevrain S, Bonté F (2007) Skin hydration: a review on its molecular mechanisms. J Cosmet Dermatol 6(2):75–82. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2165.2007.00300.x

    PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Warner RR, Boissy YL, Lilly NA, Spears MJ, McKillop K, Marshall JL et al (1999) Water disrupts stratum corneum lipid lamellae: damage is similar to surfactants. J Invest Dermatol 113(6):960–966. doi:10.1046/j.1523-1747.1999.00774.x

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Wartewig S, Neubert RHH (2007) Properties of ceramides and their impact on the stratum corneum structure: a review. Skin Pharmacol Physiol 20(5):220–229. doi:10.1159/00010442

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Weerheim AM, Ponec M (2001) Determination of stratum corneum lipid profile by tape stripping in combination with high-performance thin-layer chromatography. Arch Dermatol Res 293(4):191–199. doi:10.1007/s004030100212

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Wei TL, Geijer S, Lindberg M, Berne B, Torma H (2006) Detergents with different chemical properties induce variable degree of cytotoxicity and mRNA expression of lipid-metabolizing enzymes and differentiation markers in cultured keratinocytes. Toxicol in Vitro 20(8):1387–1394. doi:10.1016/j.tiv.2006.06.002

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Wertz PW (2000) Lipids and barrier function of the skin. Acta Derm Venereol Supplementum 208:7–11

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Wertz PW, Madison KC, Downing DT (1989) Covalently bound lipids of human stratum corneum. J Invest Dermatol 92(1):109–111

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Williams AC, Barry BW (2012) Penetration enhancers. Adv Drug Deliv Rev 64:128–137. doi:10.1016/j.addr.2012.09.03210.1016/j.addr.2012.09.032

    Google Scholar 

  • Wong V, Gumbiner BM (1997) A synthetic peptide corresponding to the extracellular domain of occludin perturbs the tight junction permeability barrier. J Cell Biol 136(2):399–409. doi:10.1083/jcb.136.2.399

    PubMed Central  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Yamamoto T, Saeki Y, Kurasawa M, Kuroda S, Arase S, Sasaki H (2008) Effect of RNA interference of tight junction-related molecules on intercellular barrier function in cultured human keratinocytes. Arch Dermatol Res 300(9):517–524. doi:10.1007/s00403-008-0868-8

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Yamane MA, Williams AC, Barry BW (1995) Effects of terpenes and oleic-acid as skin penetration enhancers towards 5-fluorouracil as assessed with time – permeation, partitioning and differential scanning calorimetry. Int J Pharm 116(2):237–51. doi:10.1016/0378-5173(94)00312-S

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  • Zettersten EM, Ghadially R, Feingold KR, Crumrine D, Elias PM (1997) Optimal ratios of topical stratum corneum lipids improve barrier recovery in chronologically aged skin. J Am Acad Dermatol 37(3):403–8. doi:10.1016/S0190-9622(97)70140-3

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Zhao KD, Singh J (2000) Mechanism(s) of in vitro percutaneous absorption enhancement of tamoxifen by enhancers. J Pharm Sci 89(6):771–80. doi:10.1002/(Sici)1520-6017(200006)89:6<771::Aid-Jps9>3.0.Co;2-Y

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  • Zheng YX, Yin HY, Boeglin WE, Elias PM, Crumrine D, Beier DR et al (2011) Lipoxygenases mediate the effect of essential fatty acid in skin barrier formation a proposed role in releasing omega-hydroxyceramide for construction of the corneocyte lipid envelope. J Biol Chem 286(27):24046–56. doi:10.1074/jbc.M111.25149610.1074/jbc.M111.251496

    PubMed Central  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

Download references

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

  1. Faculty of Medicine and Pharmacy, University Lyon 1, EA4169 “Fundamental, Clinical and Therapeutic Aspects of the Skin Barrier Function”, 8, Avenue Rockefeller, Lyon, 69373, France

    Laurène Roussel, Rawad Abdayem, Elodie Gilbert, Fabrice Pirot & Marek Haftek

Authors
  1. Laurène Roussel
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

  2. Rawad Abdayem
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

  3. Elodie Gilbert
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

  4. Fabrice Pirot
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

  5. Marek Haftek
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

Corresponding author

Correspondence to Laurène Roussel .

Editor information

Editors and Affiliations

  1. Apoteka "Beograd", Belgrade, Serbia

    Nina Dragicevic

  2. San Francisco, California, USA

    Howard I. Maibach

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

Copyright information

© 2015 Springer-Verlag Berlin Heidelberg

About this chapter

Cite this chapter

Roussel, L., Abdayem, R., Gilbert, E., Pirot, F., Haftek, M. (2015). Influence of Excipients on Two Elements of the Stratum Corneum Barrier: Intercellular Lipids and Epidermal Tight Junctions. In: Dragicevic, N., Maibach, H. (eds) Percutaneous Penetration Enhancers Chemical Methods in Penetration Enhancement. Springer, Berlin, Heidelberg. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-662-45013-0_7

Download citation

  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-662-45013-0_7

  • Publisher Name: Springer, Berlin, Heidelberg

  • Print ISBN: 978-3-662-45012-3

  • Online ISBN: 978-3-662-45013-0

  • eBook Packages: MedicineMedicine (R0)

Publish with us

Policies and ethics

Search

Navigation