Skip to main content
SpringerLink
Log in

Cosmetic Anti-aging Ingredients

  • Reference work entry
Textbook of Aging Skin

Abstract

Many cosmetic materials claim to have anti-aging effects when applied topically. As there are many such materials and also because “anti-aging” encompasses many definitions (e.g., prevention vs. improvement; wide array of benefit areas such as wrinkling, sagging, texture, sallowness, and hyperpigmentation), this relatively short chapter must be very selective regarding the materials discussed. Thus, the focus will be on only a few classes of cosmetic agents that are reported to provide improvement in the wrinkling, firming and/or sagging appearance of the skin. Particular attention will be directed to those materials within these classes for which they are readily available or published clinical data to support the reported benefits in improving skin appearance.

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.

Access this chapter

Log in via an institution
Chapter
USD 29.95
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
eBook
USD 499.00
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as EPUB and PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever

Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout

Purchases are for personal use only

Institutional subscriptions

Similar content being viewed by others

References

  1. Oblong JE, Bissett DL. Retinoids. In: Draelos ZD (ed) Procedures in Cosmetic Dermatology, Cosmeceuticals. Philadelphia: Elsevier Saunders, 2005:35–42.

    Google Scholar 

  2. Kang S, Duell EA, Fisher GJ, et al. Application of retinol to human skin in vivo induces epidermal hyperplasia and cellular retinoid binding proteins characteristic of retinoic acid but without measurable retinoic acid levels of irritation. J Invest Dermatol. 1995;105:549–556.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  3. Dunstan RW, Kennis RA. Selected heritable skin diseases of domesticated animals. In: Sundberg JP (ed) Handbook of Mouse Mutations with Skin and Hair Abnormalities. Boca Raton: CRC Press, 1994:524–525.

    Google Scholar 

  4. Kligman AM, Baker TJ, Gordon HL. Long-term histologic follow-up of phenol face peels. Plast Reconstructr Surg. 1975;75:652–659.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  5. Griffiths CE, Finkel LJ, Tranfaglia MG, et al. An in vivo experimental model for effects of topical retinoic acid in human skin. Br J Dermatol. 1993;129:389–394.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  6. Creidi P, Humbert P. Clinical use of topical retinaldehyde on photoaged skin. Dermatology. 1999;199S:49–52.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  7. Fluhr JW, Vienne MP, Lauze C, et al. Tolerance profile of retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinoic acid under maximized and long-term clinical conditions. Dermatology. 1999;199S:57–60.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  8. Erling T. Skin treatment with two different galenical formulations of retinyl palmitate in humans. J Appl Cosmetol. 1993;11:71–76.

    Google Scholar 

  9. Matts PJ, Oblong JE, Bissett DL. A review of the range of effects of niacinamide in human skin. Int Fed Soc Cosmet Chem Mag. 2002;5:285–289.

    Google Scholar 

  10. Bissett DL, Miyamoto K, Sun P, et al. Topical niacinamide reduces yellowing, wrinkling, red blotchiness, and hyperpigmented spots in aging facial skin. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2004;26:231–238.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  11. Andersson RG, Aberg G, Brattsand R, et al. Studies on the mechanism of flush induced by nicotinic acid. Acta Pharmacol Toxicol. 1977;41:1–10.

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  12. Jacobson MK, Kim H, Kim M, et al. Modulating NAD-dependent DNA repair and transcription regulated pathways of skin homeostatis: evaluation in human subjects. Poster, 60th Annual Meeting of the American Academy of Dermatology, New Orleans, 2002, Feb. 22–27.

    Google Scholar 

  13. Tajima S, Pinnell SR. Ascorbic acid preferentially enhances type I and III collagen gene transcription in human skin fibroblasts. J Dermatol Sci. 1996;11:250–253.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  14. Geesin JC, Darr D, Kaufman R, et al. Ascorbic acid specifically increases type I and type III pro-collagen messenger RNA levels in human skin fibroblasts. J Invest Dermatol. 1988;90:420–424.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  15. Raschke T, Koop U, Dusing HJ, et al. Topical activity of ascorbic acid: From in vitro optimization to in vivo efficacy. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2004;17:200–206.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  16. Fitzpatrick RE, Rostan EF. Double-blind, half-face study comparing topical vitamin C and vehicle for rejuvenation of photodamage. Dermatol Surg. 2002;28:231–236.

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  17. Humbert PG, Haftek M, Creidi P, et al. Topical ascorbic acid on photoaged skin: clinical, topographical and ultrastructural evaluation: Double-blind study vs. placebo. Exp Dermatol. 2003;12:237–244.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  18. Traikovich SS. Use of topical ascorbic acid and its effects on photodamaged skin topography. Arch Otolaryngol Head Neck Surg. 1999;125:1091–1098.

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  19. Katayama K, Armendariz-Borunda J, Raghow R, et al. A pentapeptide from type procollagen promotes extracellular matrix production. J Biol Chem. 1999;268:9941–9944.

    Google Scholar 

  20. Foldvari M, Attah-Poku S, Hu J, et al. Palmitoyl derivatives of interferon alpha: potent for cutaneous delivery. J Pharm Sci. 1998;87:1203–1208.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  21. Robinson L, Fitzgerald N, Doughty DG, et al. Topical Palmitoyl Pentapeptide provides improvement in photoaged human facial skin, Int J Cosmet Sci. 2005;27:155–160.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  22. Lintner K, Mas-Chamberlin C, Mondon P. Pentapeptide facilitates matrix regeneration of photoaged skin. Ann Dermatol Venereol. 2002;129:1S401.

    Google Scholar 

  23. Pickart L. Copperceuticals and the skin. Cosmet Toilet. 2003;118:24–28.

    Google Scholar 

  24. Smith-Mungo LL, Kagan HM. Lysyl oxidase: Properties, regulation and multiple functions in biology. Matrix Biol. 1998;16:387–398.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  25. Canapp SO, Farese JP, Schulz GS, et al. The effect of topical tripeptide-copper complex on healing of ischemic open wounds. Vet Surg. 2003;32:515–523.

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  26. Buffoni F, Pino R, Dal Pozzo A. Effect of tripeptide-copper complexes on the process of skin wound healing and on cultured fibroblasts. Arch Int Pharmacodyn Ther. 1995;330:345–360.

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  27. Blanes-Mira C, Clemente J, Jodas G, et al. A synthetic hexapeptide (Argireline) with antiwrinkle activity. Presentation, 37th Annual Conference of the Australian Society of Cosmetic Chemists, Queensland, 2003, March 13–16.

    Google Scholar 

  28. Kruger N, Fiegert L, Becker D, et al. For the treatment of skin aging: Trace elements in form of a complex of copper tripeptide. Cosmet Med. 2003;24:31–33.

    Google Scholar 

  29. Cole CA, Bertin C. Dimethylaminoethanol: A new skin-care ingredient for aging skin. In: Baran R, Maibch HI (eds) Textbook of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3rd ed. Abingdon: Taylor & Francis, 2005, pp. 95–101.

    Google Scholar 

  30. Nagy I, Floyd RA. Electron spin resonance spectroscopic demonstration of the hydroxyl free radical scavenger properties of dimethylaminoethanol in spin trapping experiments confirming the molecular basis for the biological effects of centrophenoxine. Arch Gerontol Geriatr. 1984;3:297–310.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  31. Morissette G, Germain L, Marceau F. The antiwrinkle effect of topical concentrated 2-dimethylaminoethanol involves a vacuolar cytopathology. Br J Derm. 2007;156:433–439.

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  32. Uhoda L, Faska N, Robert C, et al. Split-face study on the cutaneous tensile effect of 2-dimethylaminoethanol (deanol) gel. Skin Res Technol. 2002;8:164–167.

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  33. Levy SB. Kinetin. In: Baran R, Maibach HI (eds) Textbook of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3rd ed. Abingdon: Taylor & Francis, 2005, pp. 129–132.

    Google Scholar 

  34. Rattan SI, Sodagam L. Gerontomodulatory and youth-preserving effects of zeatin on human skin fibroblasts undergoing aging in vitro. Rejuvenation Res. 2005;8:46–57.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  35. Chiu P-C, Chan C-C, Lin H-M, et al. The clinical anti-aging effects of topical kinetin and niacinamide in Asians: a randomized double-blind, placebo-controlled, split-face comparative trial. J Cosmet Derm. 2007;6:243–249.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  36. McCullough JL, Garcia RL, Reece B. A clinical study of topical pyratine 6 for improving the appearance of photodamaged skin. J Drugs Derm. 2008;7:131–135.

    Google Scholar 

  37. Lu L, Ying K, Wie SM, et al. Asiaticoside induction for cell-cycle progression, proliferation and collagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblasts. Int J Dermatol. 2004;43:801–807.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  38. Yarosh DB, Both D, Brown D. Liposomal ursolic acid (Merotaine) increases ceramides and collagen in human skin. Horm Res. 2000;54:318–321.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  39. Martelli L, Berardesca E, Martelli M. Topical formulation of a new plant extract complex with refirming properties: Clinical and non-invasive evaluation in a double-blind trial. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2000;22:201–206.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  40. Passi S, DePita O, Grandinetti M, et al. The combined use of oral and topical lipophilic antioxidants increases their levels both in sebum and stratum corneum. Biofactors. 2003;18:289–297.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  41. Stab F, Wolber R, Blatt T, et al. Topically applied antioxidants in skin protection. Methods Enzymol. 2000;319:465–478.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  42. Hoppe U, Bergemann J, Diembeck W, et al. Coenzyme Q10, a cutaneous antioxidant and energizer. Biofactors. 1999;9:371–378.

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  43. Yu RJ, Van Scott EJ. Alpha-hydroxyacids, polyhydroxyacids, aldobionic acids and their topical actions. In: Baran R, Maibach HI (eds) Textbook of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3rd ed. Abingdon: Taylor & Francis, 2005, pp. 77–93.

    Google Scholar 

Download references

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

  1. The Procter & Gamble Company, Cincinnati, OH

    Donald L. Bissett

  2. The Procter & Gamble Company, Sharon Woods Innovation Center, 11520 Reed Hartman Highway, Cincinnati, OH 45241, USA

    Mary B. Johnson

Authors
  1. Donald L. Bissett
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

  2. Mary B. Johnson
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

Corresponding author

Correspondence to Mary B. Johnson .

Editor information

Editors and Affiliations

  1. The Procter & Gamble Company, 6110 Center Hill Avenue, 45224, Cincinnati, OH, USA

    Miranda A. Farage Ph.D. (Principal Scientist) (Principal Scientist)

  2. The Procter & Gamble Company, 6110 Center Hill Avenue, 45224, Cincinnati, OH, USA

    Kenneth W. Miller Ph.D. (Associate Director) (Associate Director)

  3. Department of Dermatology, University of California, School of Medicine, 222 SE 8th Ave., Suite 563, 94122, San Francisco, CA, USA

    Howard I. Maibach M.D. (Professor) (Professor)

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

Copyright information

© 2010 Springer-Verlag Berlin Heidelberg

About this entry

Cite this entry

Bissett, D.L., Johnson, M.B. (2010). Cosmetic Anti-aging Ingredients. In: Farage, M.A., Miller, K.W., Maibach, H.I. (eds) Textbook of Aging Skin. Springer, Berlin, Heidelberg. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-540-89656-2_99

Download citation

  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-540-89656-2_99

  • Publisher Name: Springer, Berlin, Heidelberg

  • Print ISBN: 978-3-540-89655-5

  • Online ISBN: 978-3-540-89656-2

  • eBook Packages: MedicineReference Module Medicine

Publish with us

Policies and ethics

Search

Navigation