The sea that we see dancing

Abstract

Under the apparent tranquility of the sea is concealed an entire palette of oscillations and pulsations, some susceptible of becoming extremely violent. Certain ones obey a relatively clear mechanism that we shall analyze through our simplifying lens, preferring to guide the reader so that he can evaluate the potential consequences of these phenomena, rather than providing a detailed scientific explanation. We begin with observations of the tides, which are almost periodic, and whose main characteristics are relatively simple to describe, then follow up with the phenomena of El Niño and La Niña, which are responsible for climatic anomalies that have now been identified, but whose exact causes remain debated. Finally, we examine swells—oscillations that are rarely calm and that always carry a colossal energy. We shall also overview all sorts of waves in a quest to understand why some can become so menacing and destructive.

Waves scree and dare, leaping from rock to rock.

(Paul Valéry , The Graveyard by the Sea)