Skip to main content
Log in

The Effect of Hydration on the Mechanical Behaviour of Hair

  • Published:
Experimental Mechanics Aims and scope Submit manuscript

Abstract

Human hair is a biological material constantly exposed to different external factors,such as humidity, sunrays, temperature, chemical treatments, etc. All these treatments influence and modify its physical behaviour. Studying the biophysical properties of human hair is very important in both dermatology to provide useful markers for the diagnosis of hair disorders and in cosmetics to develop better hair-care products. Water is one of the external factors whose action on the mechanical behaviour of hair is the most visible. To understand the role of water in the biophysical behaviour of hair, it is essential to study its influence on alpha-keratin, which composes the major part of the structure of hair. The influence of water on the biomechanical behaviour of hair has been studied using relaxation tests. The generalised Maxwell model was used to analyse rheological results. The results indicate a modification of the rheological behaviour of hair before and after immersion in water and during ambient air-drying. Finally, a correlation between the rheological results and the chemical bond structure of hair is discussed.

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.

Access this article

Price excludes VAT (USA)
Tax calculation will be finalised during checkout.

Instant access to the full article PDF.

Fig. 1
Fig. 2
Fig. 3
Fig. 4
Fig. 5
Fig. 6
Fig. 7

Similar content being viewed by others

References

  1. Bhushan B (2008) Nanoscale characterization of human hair and hair conditioners. Prog Mater Sci 53:585–710

    Article  Google Scholar 

  2. Kuzuhara A, Fujiwara N, Hori T (2007) Analysis of internal structure changes in black human hair keratin fibers with aging using Raman spectroscopy. Biopolymers 87:134–140

    Article  Google Scholar 

  3. Popescu C, Höcker H (2007) Hair-the most sophisticated biological composite material. R Soc Chem 36:1282–1291

    Article  Google Scholar 

  4. Velasco MVR, de Sa Dias TC, de Freitas AZ, Junior NDV, de Oliveira Pinto CAS, Kaneko TM, Baby AR (2009) Hair fiber characteristics and methods to evaluate hair physical and mechanical properties. Braz J Pharm Sci 45:153–162

    Article  Google Scholar 

  5. Wei G, Bhushan B, Torgerson PM (2005) Nanomechanical characterization of human hair using nanoindentation and SEM. Ultramicroscopy 105:248–266

    Article  Google Scholar 

  6. Wei G, Bhushan B (2006) Nanotribological and nanomechanical characterization of human hair using a nanoscratch technique. Ultramicroscopy 106:742–754

    Article  Google Scholar 

  7. Kreplak L, Franbourg A, Briki F, Leroy F, Dalle D, Doucet J (2002) A new deformation model of hard alpha-keratin fibers at the nanometer scale: implications for hard alpha-keratin intermediate filament mechanical properties. Biophys J 82:2265–2274

    Article  Google Scholar 

  8. Qin Z, Buehler MJ, Kreplak L (2010) A multi-scale approach to understand the mechanobiology of intermediate filaments. J Biomech 43:15–22

    Article  Google Scholar 

  9. Meyers MA, Chen PY, Lin AYM, Seki Y (2008) Biological materials: structure and mechanical properties. Prog Mater Sci 53:1–206

    Article  Google Scholar 

  10. Jones LN, Simon M, Watts NR, Booy FP, Steven AC, Parry DAD (1997) Intermediate filament structure: hard α-keratin. Biophys Chem 68:83–93

    Article  Google Scholar 

  11. Parbhu AN, Bryson WG, Lal R (1999) Disulfide bonds in the outer layer of keratin fibres confer higher mechanical rigidity: correlative nano-indentation and elasticity measurement with an AFM. Biochemistry 38:11755–11761

    Article  Google Scholar 

  12. Bendit EG (1978) Properties of the matrix in keratins, part II: the “hookean” region in the stress strain curve of keratins. Text Res J 47:717–722

    Article  Google Scholar 

  13. Bhushan B, Wei G, Haddad P (2005) Friction and wear studies of human hair and skin. Wear 259:1012–1021

    Article  Google Scholar 

  14. Mizuno H, Luengo GS, Rutland MW (2010) Interactions between crossed hair fibres at the nanoscale. Langmuir 26:18909–18915

    Article  Google Scholar 

  15. Clifford CA, Sano N, Doyle P, Seah MP (2012) Nanomechanical measurements of hair as an example of micro-fibre analysis using atomic force microscopy nanoindentation. Ultramicroscopy 114:38–45

    Article  Google Scholar 

  16. Seshadri IP, Bhushan B (2008) Effect of ethnicity and treatments on in situ tensile response and morphological changes of human hair characterized by atomic force microscopy. Acta Mater 56:3585–3597

    Article  Google Scholar 

  17. Seshadri IP, Bhushan B (2008) In situ tensile deformation characterization of human hair with atomic force microscopy. Acta Mater 56:774–781

    Article  Google Scholar 

  18. Wortmann FJ, Wortmann G, zur Wiesche ES (2010) Spatial probing of the properties of the human hair surface using whilhelmy force profiles. Langmuir 26:7365–7369

    Article  Google Scholar 

  19. Fougère M, Vargiolu R, Pailler-Mattei C, Zahouani H (2009) Study of hair topography modification by interferometry. Wear 266:600–604

    Article  Google Scholar 

  20. Nikiforidis G, Tsambaos D, Balas C, Bezerianos A (1993) A method for the determination of viscoelastic parameters of human hair in relation to its structure. Skin Pharmacol 6:32–37

    Article  Google Scholar 

  21. Reese CE, Eyring H (1950) Mechanical properties and the structure of Hair. Text Res J 11:743–753

    Article  Google Scholar 

  22. Vargiolu R, Pailler-Mattei C, Coudert M, Lintz Y, Zahouani H (2013) Hair surface and mechanical properties of Copt mummies from antinopolis. J Archaeol Sci 40:3686–3692

    Article  Google Scholar 

  23. Nikiforidis G, Balas C, Tsambaos D (1992) Mechanical parameters of human hair: possible application in the diagnosis and follow-up of hair disorders. Clin Phys Physiol M 13:281–290

    Article  Google Scholar 

  24. Rebenfeld L, Weigmann HD, Dansizer C (1966) Temperature dependence of the mechanical properties of human hair in relation to structure. J Soc Cosmet Chem 17:525–538

    Google Scholar 

  25. Bories MF, Martini MC, Bobin MF, Cotte J (1984) Influence des variations thermiques sur la structure du cheveu. Int J Cosmet Sci 6:201–211

    Article  Google Scholar 

  26. Breuer MM (1972) The binding of small molecules to hair-I: the hydration of hair and the effect of water on the mechanical properties of hair. J Soc Cosmet Chem 23:447–470

    Google Scholar 

  27. Cao J, Leroy F (2004) Depression of the melting temperature by moisture for alpha form crystallites in human hair keratin. Biopolymers 77:38–43

    Article  Google Scholar 

  28. Wortmann FJ, Stapels M, Chandra L (2009) Humidity-dependent bending recovery and relaxation of human hair. J Appl Polym Sci 113:3336–3344

    Article  Google Scholar 

  29. Egawa M, Hagihara M, Yanai M (2013) Near-infrared imaging of water in human hair. Skin Res Technol 19:35–41

    Article  Google Scholar 

  30. Belletti KMS, Feferman IH, Mendes TRO, Piaceski AD, Monteiro VF, Carreno NLV, Valentini A, Leite ER, Longo E (2003) Evaluation of hair fiber hydration by differential scanning calorimetry, gas chromatography, and sensory analysis. J Cosmet Sci 54:527–535

    Google Scholar 

  31. Wortmann FJ, Stapels M, Elliott R, Chandra L (2005) The effect of water on the glass transition of human hair. Biopolymers 81:371–375

    Article  Google Scholar 

  32. O’Connor SD, Komisarek KL, Baldeschwieler JD (1995) Atomic-force microscopy of human hair cuticles : a microscopic study of environmental effect on hair morphology. J Investig Dermatol 105:96–99

    Article  Google Scholar 

  33. Robbins CR (1994) Chemical and physical behavior of human hair. Springer-Verlag Editions, NewYork

    Book  Google Scholar 

  34. Thibaut S, de Becker E, Bernard BA, Huart M, Fiat F, Baghdadli N, Luengo GS, Leroy F, Angevin P, Kermoal AM, Muller S, Peron M, Provot G, Kravtchenko S, Saint-Léger D, Desbois G, Gauchet L, Nowbuth K, Galliano A, Kempf JY, Silberzan I (2010) Chronological ageing of human hair keratin fibres. Int J Cosmet Sci 32:422–434

    Article  Google Scholar 

  35. Feughelman M (1997) Mechanical properties and structure of alpha keratin fibers: wool, human hair and related fibers. University of New South Wales. Press, Sydney

    Google Scholar 

  36. Erik B, Havitcioglu H, Aktan S, Karakus N (2008) Biomechanical properties of human hair with different parameters. Skin Res Technol 14:147–151

    Article  Google Scholar 

  37. Hearle JWS (2000) A critical review of the structural mechanics of wool and hair fibres. Int J Biol Macromol 27:123–138

    Article  Google Scholar 

  38. Barnes HA, Roberts GP (2000) The non-linear viscoelastic behaviour of human hair at moderate extensions. Int J Cosmet Sci 22:259–264

    Article  Google Scholar 

  39. Johnson KL (2001) Contact mechanics. Cambridge University Press, Cambridge

    Google Scholar 

  40. Dantzig GB (1963) Linear programming and extensions. Princeton University Press, Princeton

    MATH  Google Scholar 

  41. Nelder JA, Mead R (1965) A simplex method for function minimization. Comput J 7:308–313

    Article  MATH  Google Scholar 

  42. Zuidema P, Govaert LE, Baaijens FPT, Ackermans PAJ, Asvadi S (2003) The influence of humidity on the viscoelastic behaviour of human hair. Biorheology 40:431–439

    Google Scholar 

  43. Marti M, Manich AM, Ussman MH, Bondia I, Parra JL, Coderch L (2004) Internal lipid content and viscoelastic behavior of wool fibers. J Appl Polym Sci 92:3252–3259

    Article  Google Scholar 

  44. Maxwell JM, Huson MG (2005) Scanning probe microscopy examination of the surface properties of keratin fibres. Micron 36:127–136

    Article  Google Scholar 

  45. Hill CAS, Xie Y (2011) The dynamic water vapour sorption properties of natural fibres and viscoelastic behaviour of the cell wall: is there a link between sorption kinetics and hysteresis? J Mater Sci 46:3738–3748

    Article  Google Scholar 

  46. Kitano H, Yamamoto A, Niwa M, Fujinami S, Nakajima K, Nishi T, Naito S (2009) Young’s modulus mapping on hair cross-section by atomic force microscopy. Compos Interfaces 16:1–12

    Article  Google Scholar 

  47. Liu HL, Yu WD, Jin HB (2008) Modeling the stress-relaxation behaviour of wool fibers. J Appl Polym Sci 110:2078–2084

    Article  Google Scholar 

  48. Gamez-Garcia M (1998) The cracking of human hair cuticles by cyclical thermal stresses. J Cosmet Sci 49:141–153

    Google Scholar 

  49. Zviak C (1988) Science des traitements capillaires. Masson Edition, Paris

    Google Scholar 

Download references

Conflict of Interest

There are no conflicts of interest in this study to disclose.

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

Authors

Corresponding author

Correspondence to C. Pailler-Mattei.

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

About this article

Check for updates. Verify currency and authenticity via CrossMark

Cite this article

Benzarti, M., Pailler-Mattei, C., Jamart, J. et al. The Effect of Hydration on the Mechanical Behaviour of Hair. Exp Mech 54, 1411–1419 (2014). https://doi.org/10.1007/s11340-014-9904-0

Download citation

  • Received:

  • Accepted:

  • Published:

  • Issue Date:

  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s11340-014-9904-0

Keywords

Navigation