Abstract
In oceans, surface waves are not only irregular and of finite amplitude, but also nonstationary, in that their average features change with space and time. The nonstationarity is inherently due to nonlinear interactions among waves of different frequencies. Here we discuss two examples. The first is the evolution of unidirectional waves in deep water. Group splitting is shown to develop in both two and three dimensional cases. Individual crests in the transient groups may exceed the threshold of breaking. The second example is the excitation of trapped long waves on a submarine ridge by incident short wave groups. Such long waves may be important to moored ships of semisubmercibles.
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© 1990 Kluwer Academic Publishers
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Mei, C.C., Lo, E., Agnon, Y. (1990). Slow Modulation of Weakly Nonlinear Waves. In: Tørum, A., Gudmestad, O.T. (eds) Water Wave Kinematics. NATO ASI Series, vol 178. Springer, Dordrecht. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-94-009-0531-3_10
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DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-94-009-0531-3_10
Publisher Name: Springer, Dordrecht
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